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Old 10-05-2006, 07:34 AM   #6346
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Or you could run one of these brake discs and not have to run any pads at all, we have been testing this for the past several weeks and it really has been solid. Mike S. has been running one and has not had any problems with brake fade at all. Both Mike S. and Darin I. ran this disc at the worlds. Please send me a PM if you are interested they will retail for $12.00 plus shipping and will be added to the site soon.
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Old 10-05-2006, 11:10 AM   #6347
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Quote:
Originally Posted by P-DUB
Or you could run one of these brake discs and not have to run any pads at all, we have been testing this for the past several weeks and it really has been solid. Mike S. has been running one and has not had any problems with brake fade at all. Both Mike S. and Darin I. ran this disc at the worlds. Please send me a PM if you are interested they will retail for $12.00 plus shipping and will be added to the site soon.

Very Trick!
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Old 10-05-2006, 11:11 AM   #6348
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TomB
nick man, go with those brake pads rick b sells for the kyosho...[/B][/U][/SIZE] ...Jay has them.
Yeah, I've run the APP pads in all my Kyoshos. They are the best pads out. But for the money, I think the Mugen Yellows are just as good.
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Old 10-05-2006, 11:23 AM   #6349
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Quote:
Originally Posted by P-DUB
Or you could run one of these brake discs and not have to run any pads at all, we have been testing this for the past several weeks and it really has been solid. Mike S. has been running one and has not had any problems with brake fade at all. Both Mike S. and Darin I. ran this disc at the worlds. Please send me a PM if you are interested they will retail for $12.00 plus shipping and will be added to the site soon.
hi p-dub....

how does the disc weigh??
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Old 10-05-2006, 12:06 PM   #6350
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Originally Posted by YBSLOW
Very Trick!
So are those drilled out rear diff outdrives.
Looks like the pulley and brake adaptors were cut down a bit too. Kinda like Ira's car.
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Old 10-05-2006, 04:14 PM   #6351
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Originally Posted by kidDynomite
Ira, didn't you tell me you were planning on milling out the Mugen 4mm to utilize one piece mounts? Or was that something you were just helping Joe out with?


The Kawahara 4 mm chassis is milled completely around the engine mount. I think it will work with the Kaw one piece. I heard there is a new carpet track opening in Tommies basement??
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Old 10-05-2006, 06:07 PM   #6352
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Just installed a RB Matrix motor, which is very similar to a Sirio, into my MTX4 with no modifications required. I did have to shim the engine upwards 0.5mm to do this, so there is an ever so slight CG penalty.

Basically shim the motor 0.5 mm, undo the carb, fit it and rotate the carb until it clears the tank at full extension, and then angle the carb linkage connector around 15 degrees from horizontal. Bit of a pain but it did go in.
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Old 10-05-2006, 08:20 PM   #6353
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dialed Pile
The Kawahara 4 mm chassis is milled completely around the engine mount. I think it will work with the Kaw one piece.
Absolutely.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Dialed Pile
I heard there is a new carpet track opening in Tommies basement??
Oooooh yeah! Thanks for hookin it up Chris.
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Old 10-05-2006, 09:10 PM   #6354
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Ira, can you post some pics of your mods?
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Old 10-05-2006, 09:37 PM   #6355
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Well guys, college has stepped up a notch, so its time for me to sell my MTX-4. You can check it out on For Sale Items Forum or just click on my signature.
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Old 10-05-2006, 11:01 PM   #6356
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TomB
nick man, go with those brake pads rick b sells for the kyosho...yeah i know $50, but they're fricken bromp ploof!! ...Jay has them.
itchy has had them for a long time
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Old 10-05-2006, 11:04 PM   #6357
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Quote:
Originally Posted by P-DUB
Or you could run one of these brake discs and not have to run any pads at all, we have been testing this for the past several weeks and it really has been solid. Mike S. has been running one and has not had any problems with brake fade at all. Both Mike S. and Darin I. ran this disc at the worlds. Please send me a PM if you are interested they will retail for $12.00 plus shipping and will be added to the site soon.
wow, nice disk, must be lighter than the metal ones and adds to the bling too
if its good enough for Mike.s its good enough for me
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Last edited by itchy b; 10-06-2006 at 02:12 AM.
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Old 10-06-2006, 10:32 AM   #6358
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Quote:
Originally Posted by richey
Yes i have been using the Kyosho mount for about 6 months and it works great. If you want one let mem know.
thanks for the tip and the offer...
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Old 10-07-2006, 04:13 AM   #6359
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AMGRacer
Just installed a RB Matrix motor, which is very similar to a Sirio, into my MTX4 with no modifications required. I did have to shim the engine upwards 0.5mm to do this, so there is an ever so slight CG penalty.
Uh, Oh... Shimming an engine on the motor mount is asking for problems (better to not do). It can drive to faulty heat transfer to the chassis and or excessive crankcase deformations and breakage on the short term.

There are different motor mount out here just for clearing those 0.5mm you need to go up (which kind of chassis you're using? Stock 3mm, Mugen 4mm, Kawahara?). The stock 3mm has a mill for clearing the crankcase by their lower side. Find a competent machinist that could make you out from a stock 7075 Aluminium sheet a pair of 0.5mm supplemental pieces just to hold your engine by the crankcase ears (or better to... by the underside of the engine mounts).

Mine motor mounts (have some) measure around 14mm high, maybe you need to look for a 14.5mm high engine mount (look on the old RRR engine mounts or similar if I'm not wrong, the original RRR had a slightly higher motor mounts).
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Old 10-07-2006, 04:22 AM   #6360
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ira
I have the Sirio STI in my MTX4 with the Mugen 4mm chassis, the bottom of the case touches the chassis. I had to place small washers between the engine and engine mounts.

I have had other engines in my car and the Sirio is the only engine I had to shim up.
Get a competent machinist that could mill your chassis a line like the one had the original 3mm chasis. If not, when the engine is hot, grows and touches with the chassis, warping it (and it makes on the worst place it can do).

Many of the guys who blamed about ripped 2nd gears had the chassis warped. The STI has a bigger crankcase. Posted some time ago photos of what I needed to do to my STi to fit on the Mugen. The engine mounts touched barely the crankcase on the sides and needed to clear them. Look on the photo I'm posting.

Is a quick and 'dirty' job made with a Dremel and a Carbide cutter. But cleared the crankcase by the sides and I slightly milled the channel the chassis had just to clear the engine (if you feel brave, you can do the same milling the Sirio word on the crankcase and save your chassis).
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