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Old 09-21-2006, 04:49 AM   #6181
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bing
Easier to adjust. Save lots times.

get Kawahara rear swaybar set, but dont' buy Kawahara front swaybar set.
JP front swaybar set is better.
i use stock no probs with it
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Old 09-21-2006, 08:16 AM   #6182
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Originally Posted by tantalus007
Hi guys… just acquired a used super slightly used mtx4 and the car is awesome… I would just like to know what are the necessary upgrades needed for this car… as of the moment I can say that it has the front cvd’s and alloy wheel hexes… anything else??? are the 3racing or kawahara parts any good???

Am currently using the old configuration of the belt tensioner, although I’ve read on how to revise it… will this affect the handling of the car and how… sorry I a asked a dumb question… am totally new to running nitro…

Thanks and cheers to everyone…

P.S. Congrats to Team Mugen for capturing the 2006 worlds title…
get the 4mm rear shock tower...
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Old 09-21-2006, 08:45 AM   #6183
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Default carburator hits fuel tank

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Originally Posted by asw7576
Throttle Knob ( on the engine's throttle ) is moveable 360 degree.
Yes, I may be new, but this I know.

I have tried almost every angle , but it seems to hit something either way.
Didn't have that problem with an IDM P1R evo2

Do you have any other advice without having to dremel the upperdeck.
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Old 09-21-2006, 08:50 AM   #6184
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Originally Posted by Yome
Hey guys,

i just installed a sirio S12 STI on my MTX4. but i can't get the carbuartor to slide to fully open without hitting either the fuel tank of the carbon upperdeck.

Do you guys have the same problem ? If so, how did you solve this ?

Regards,
Youri
i had the same problem with my sti.
i found that you need to use the shorter throttle knob that you should have got with the motor on the mtx4.
it will give you just enough clearence.
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Old 09-21-2006, 08:54 AM   #6185
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Yome
Yes, I may be new, but this I know.

I have tried almost every angle , but it seems to hit something either way.
Didn't have that problem with an IDM P1R evo2

Do you have any other advice without having to dremel the upperdeck.
if you didnt get the bigger and smaller size throttle knobs with your engine,
a sirio stockist should have the part as i needed to get one for my evo2 worlds last week as it gave the same problem
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Old 09-21-2006, 10:48 AM   #6186
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Use imagination to re-arrange the linkage wire and linkage position so they all fit.
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Old 09-21-2006, 10:51 AM   #6187
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IT WILL TOUCH THE TANK A BIT but thats ok
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Old 09-21-2006, 12:39 PM   #6188
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hi,
one of our club guys make this chassi
it is make 4 mm t4 alloy, without any cuts on the top.
this chassi is more stiffer the any other on market

dieter
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Old 09-21-2006, 04:25 PM   #6189
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4racer
hi,
one of our club guys make this chassi
it is make 4 mm t4 alloy, without any cuts on the top.
this chassi is more stiffer the any other on market

dieter
Sorry... didn't work without cuts on the upper side. In fact, doing this you're reducing 1mm the ground clearance from the car to the ground (Snakes did it and few days after they launched a milled one).

BTW: I still use my car with the 3mm chassis and didn't felt any need of going for a 4mm one. When someday I need one. I want one that gives me the added stiffness without the added problems of a reduced ground clearance or the added problems of needing to raise 1mm my car. Better to mill it on the upper side.
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Old 09-21-2006, 04:40 PM   #6190
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hi corse,
sorry, but i think you have not use this chassis, i can say it works very well.
i have see the chassis what the snake use on ther wc, they have also take a 3 mm chassis, with this cuts .


dieter
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Old 09-21-2006, 11:17 PM   #6191
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4racer
hi,
one of our club guys make this chassi
it is make 4 mm t4 alloy, without any cuts on the top.
this chassi is more stiffer the any other on market

dieter
T6 or T4 ?

which one is harder grade ?

I always get the idea T6 is the latest metal ( aircraft use ? )
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Old 09-21-2006, 11:17 PM   #6192
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4racer
hi,
one of our club guys make this chassi
it is make 4 mm t4 alloy, without any cuts on the top.
this chassi is more stiffer the any other on market

dieter
ok now ill say thats the stiffest but it must be a ton
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Old 09-21-2006, 11:21 PM   #6193
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Corse-R
Sorry... didn't work without cuts on the upper side. In fact, doing this you're reducing 1mm the ground clearance from the car to the ground (Snakes did it and few days after they launched a milled one).

BTW: I still use my car with the 3mm chassis and didn't felt any need of going for a 4mm one. When someday I need one. I want one that gives me the added stiffness without the added problems of a reduced ground clearance or the added problems of needing to raise 1mm my car. Better to mill it on the upper side.
this is true its a give and take thing. i us a kanack but i may go back to the mugen.
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Old 09-22-2006, 04:21 AM   #6194
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it is 17 gram heavier than 3 mm, and 8 gramm than 4 mm mugen chassis
but you can use it without the battery holder

dieter
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Old 09-22-2006, 10:25 AM   #6195
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hey guys, can u please comment on my front suspension
basically im tryin to get it as low as 4mm, but that means putting the thread right at the top, which therfore means minimum suspension travel (hope it makes sense)

is this right??
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