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Old 08-23-2006, 06:15 AM   #5896
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ElectricConvert
I am frustrated by this car with the constant stripping of 2nd spur gear.

I gave up running the final in my club yesterday because I stripped a gear in the qualifying and could not be bothered replacing it. This car blows the gear every 2 races, what the hell is wrong with it?

I've already done the following but the problem still exist.

Installed a monoblock.
Installed an aluminum upper brace.
Recheck/replaced the engine clutch ball bearings.
Decreased the gap that the clutch bell travels by adding shims inside the clutch bell, compensated with a tighter clutch spring setting.
Always removed first gear and meshed 2nd gear, then install the first gear. Installed 18/24 steel pinions.
Tapered the 2nd gear housing so it doesn't touch the clutch bell.
Shimmed behind the 2 speed shoe housing pin so it doesn't catch the aluminium brace.

What is the root cause of this nagging issue?

Can someone elaborate on the logic behind these suggesions?

-Replaced the inner 2nd gear clutch balls with some bigger ones (S710's ball diff balls)
-Replaced the 2nd gear clutch shoes with the MTX-3 shoes

-How about going to a 4 mm chassis? Is chassis flex the cause?

Thanks in advance for your constructive input.

SIMILAR SITUATION OCURRED TO A FRIEND OF MINE, WHEN CHECKING FLEX BY HOLDING THE FRONT AND BACK OF THE KIT WITH HIS TWO HANDS, HE FOUND OUT THAT THE SCREW NEXT TO THE CHASIS BRACE THAT HOLDS THE RADIO PLATE WAS NOT TIGHT, IT CAUSED A MINIMAL FLEX BUT VOILA, THAT WAS IT, NO MORE STRIPPING 2ND GEARS SINCE, THIS FLEX STRIPPED 5 GEARS IN TWO MEETINGS.

HOPE IT HELPS
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Old 08-23-2006, 06:25 AM   #5897
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slo-MTX4
How many of you guys run the 24t pulley?

And have you had any issues with the side belt coming off?

Cheers Daniel
YOU CAN GAIN MORE TENSION BY DREMELING A LITTLE THE CARBON PIECE HOLDING THE BELT TENSIONER, YOU CAN ALSO REVERSE THE ALUMINUM PIECE WHERE THE SCREW HOLDING THE BEARINGS OF THE TENSIONER,
OR USE A FRONT TENSIONER, I USE THE MTX3 ON FRONT AND THE URETHAN BELT WORKS FINE AND NO MORE COMING OFF SINCE THE REAR COULDN'T BE LOWERED MORE.
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Old 08-23-2006, 07:39 AM   #5898
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slo-MTX4
How many of you guys run the 24t pulley?

And have you had any issues with the side belt coming off?

Cheers Daniel
No probs with the 24T here... I don't know which kind of batch your car is, but mine two carried three front center pulleys (23, 24 & 25T) and two center belts (one came separate with a yellow addendum page).

This one who came separated is the rubber one and is shorter than the one that came 'stock' on the big bag (urethane one).

The lettering on the 'short' belt is "Mugen Seiki Co. Ltd E5SD 22089 031"

The center belt is a little loose and the belt tensioner is tightened all the way down (Just to be sure to put the little nail that guides the tensioner on the CF place facing upper side). Belt didn't skipped nor broke never (in fact I'm scared to death because the center belts has 40 litres of fuel and is looking brand new).
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Old 08-23-2006, 10:02 AM   #5899
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seisick
SIMILAR SITUATION OCURRED TO A FRIEND OF MINE, WHEN CHECKING FLEX BY HOLDING THE FRONT AND BACK OF THE KIT WITH HIS TWO HANDS, HE FOUND OUT THAT THE SCREW NEXT TO THE CHASIS BRACE THAT HOLDS THE RADIO PLATE WAS NOT TIGHT, IT CAUSED A MINIMAL FLEX BUT VOILA, THAT WAS IT, NO MORE STRIPPING 2ND GEARS SINCE, THIS FLEX STRIPPED 5 GEARS IN TWO MEETINGS.

HOPE IT HELPS
Cool, I'll give that a try. I've tried all the other remedies and they still strip!!
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Old 08-23-2006, 03:47 PM   #5900
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Default Mugen Seki T shirt

SOLD

Hey Nitro Fans!

Are any of you guys interested in a Mugen Seki T shirt?
It's a size Extra large brand new in the bag. It's gray with the Mugen Logo on the back in white letters surrounded by orange and yellow flames. Price is $15 shipped to US

Last edited by Deves; 08-25-2006 at 11:43 PM.
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Old 08-24-2006, 12:57 PM   #5901
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UPDATE!

Mugen MTX4 1/10th On-Road screw kits are now in stock!



Mugen MTX4 1/10th On-Road 235-piece high grade 12.9 alloy steel socket head screw kit. Kit includes all applicable cap, flat and button head screws, as well as nuts, washers, lock washers and set screws.

Kits will begin shipping today, August 24th, 2006.

Thanks and best regards,
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Old 08-24-2006, 11:52 PM   #5902
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Corse-R
No probs with the 24T here... I don't know which kind of batch your car is, but mine two carried three front center pulleys (23, 24 & 25T) and two center belts (one came separate with a yellow addendum page).

This one who came separated is the rubber one and is shorter than the one that came 'stock' on the big bag (urethane one).

The lettering on the 'short' belt is "Mugen Seiki Co. Ltd E5SD 22089 031"

The center belt is a little loose and the belt tensioner is tightened all the way down (Just to be sure to put the little nail that guides the tensioner on the CF place facing upper side). Belt didn't skipped nor broke never (in fact I'm scared to death because the center belts has 40 litres of fuel and is looking brand new).
You can use bigger diameter flange ball bearings to press down the middle belt even further.
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Old 08-25-2006, 12:53 AM   #5903
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asw7576
You can use bigger diameter flange ball bearings to press down the middle belt even further.
yeah but theres only so far you can go
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Old 08-25-2006, 03:52 AM   #5904
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asw7576
You can use bigger diameter flange ball bearings to press down the middle belt even further.
guys you realy dont wont to do this
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Old 08-25-2006, 04:45 AM   #5905
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wallyedmonds
guys you realy dont wont to do this
Why not ?
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Old 08-25-2006, 08:01 AM   #5906
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asw7576
You can use bigger diameter flange ball bearings to press down the middle belt even further.
Sorry, I do not feel the need for more tighteness on the center belt. As is my car is really free of transmission binding.
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Old 08-25-2006, 08:03 AM   #5907
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asw7576
Why not ?
Because if all tightened down and you put bigger bearings you're approaching more the teeth of the belt and you can risk to touch themselves as it runs (and of course, do more harm rather than good).
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Old 08-25-2006, 11:51 AM   #5908
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Corse-R
Because if all tightened down and you put bigger bearings you're approaching more the teeth of the belt and you can risk to touch themselves as it runs (and of course, do more harm rather than good).
I'm sure we have reasonable expertise, brain and experience with RC cars. So we know how big the bearings that fit into mtx4 belt tensioner without harming any other parts.

Anyway, I have new toys ...... mrx4r
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Old 08-25-2006, 12:55 PM   #5909
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I'm sure we have reasonable expertise, brain and experience with RC cars. So we know how big the bearings that fit into mtx4 belt tensioner without harming any other parts. [/QUOTE]

Yep. But the main problem and one thing that needs to be taken into account is the belt stretching and the vibration who is subjected when running at high speed, maybe when at your starter box looks good, but the belt needs their own space to move and vibrate.

Quote:
Originally Posted by asw7576
Anyway, I have new toys ...... mrx4r
Congrats for your new toy, welcome to the 'guys with big guns league'... Is a 4R or is the 4R version 2 (hard chassis without millings under the engine and special new front uprights).
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Old 08-25-2006, 01:15 PM   #5910
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Corse-R
Congrats for your new toy, welcome to the 'guys with big guns league'... Is a 4R or is the 4R version 2 (hard chassis without millings under the engine and special new front uprights).
It's version 2. I heard I have to be careful when ordering front upright ( old and new style ? )
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