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Old 08-22-2006, 09:04 AM   #5881
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott Fisher
The nova Plus 12 3ct is a pretty darn good choice in that price range. The novarossi engines are still the best combination of speed and reliability that you can buy.

There are other fast engines on the market right now but you still hear the tales of broken rods, cranks, carb issues etc. You just don't hear those things about the novarossi engines.

Get a novarossi and then you can worry about something else, not the engine.
You're absolutely correct. The sirio engines for me is the worst compared to rb and nova.
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Old 08-22-2006, 09:10 AM   #5882
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Originally Posted by wallyedmonds
coming off and breaking and breaking the front belt and cvd breaking , so i just run the 25 with 1mm diff front and rear tires and the car drives better and the belts stay on and dont break
When I run the 25t I start the tires out the same size front and rear. The rear tires will wear faster then the front but that is normal. After the back tires wear a little the car is only being driven buy the back tires unless the rear tires start to slip then the front start to pull also.

If you start out with the front tires 1 mm smaller then the drivetrain is bound up until the tires are the same size. This is only when you run the 1mm split smaller fronts and the 25t side gear.
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Old 08-22-2006, 09:25 AM   #5883
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Originally Posted by THE DOCTOR
When I run the 25t I start the tires out the same size front and rear. The rear tires will wear faster then the front but that is normal. After the back tires wear a little the car is only being driven buy the back tires unless the rear tires start to slip then the front start to pull also.

If you start out with the front tires 1 mm smaller then the drivetrain is bound up until the tires are the same size. This is only when you run the 1mm split smaller fronts and the 25t side gear.
all i know is the car runs better with the 25 and its faster .
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Old 08-22-2006, 09:26 AM   #5884
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Quote:
Originally Posted by typer
You're absolutely correct. The sirio engines for me is the worst compared to rb and nova.
and this is so true
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Old 08-22-2006, 10:48 AM   #5885
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wallyedmonds
all i know is the car runs better with the 25 and its faster .
I run the 25t almost all of the time with a 1.5 or 2mm split.
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Old 08-22-2006, 11:28 AM   #5886
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Do you use the diff or the one-way in the front?
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Old 08-22-2006, 12:23 PM   #5887
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Quote:
Originally Posted by THE DOCTOR
Do you use the diff or the one-way in the front?

Good point. It is almost always with the one - way.
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Old 08-22-2006, 01:02 PM   #5888
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Quote:
Originally Posted by THE DOCTOR
Do you use the diff or the one-way in the front?
if you use a diff with 24 the car is like ummmmm DIRT with a 1 to 2mm split i dont know why but it is,a oneway or noway i say.
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Old 08-22-2006, 03:11 PM   #5889
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Hi Guys,

Iíve been busy working on an MTX-4 Knowledge Base (KB), similar to the one I did for the V-ONE RRR. It should be up within the next two weeks or so. Here is a list of what the site will include:

- FAQ: A summary of all the best questions and answers from the MTX-4 thread.

Scott Fisherís Notes: Scott has contributed a lot of really good info on the car and I got his okay to put together a special section with all of his tips. If you want to get smart fast, this is certainly the way to do it.

- Build guide by Racing4Evo, including what you need to build a Skyline MTX-4.

- Web Graphics by kidDynomite. The site is going to look really awesome!

- Racer Spotlight: Interviews with MTX-4 drivers that have won major events: First up Ė Jamie Corrado, winner of this yearís GLC.

- Links to where you can buy the car and parts.

- MTX-4 news and updates

Ö and much more as the site grows.

Iím very thankful for all the assistance and support Iíve been getting to put this site together. Since I don't own a 4 yet, I certainly could not have done it by myself. I hope it will serve as a invaluable resource for everyone.

If you have pictures of your car, with and without the chassis on, I would really like to include it at the site, along with a list of performance upgrades you've added to the car. This will serve as a great visual resource, upgrade guide and source of inspiration for other drivers. If you are interested, send me a PM.

Thanks,
Rainer
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Old 08-22-2006, 03:31 PM   #5890
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Good Stuff Rainier, Can't wait to see it

Brad
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Old 08-22-2006, 03:44 PM   #5891
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[QUOTE=chookgb]
Quote:
Originally Posted by ElectricConvert
I am frustrated by this car with the constant stripping of 2nd spur gear.

I gave up running the final in my club yesterday because I stripped a gear in the qualifying and could not be bothered replacing it. This car blows the gear every 2 races, what the hell is wrong with it?

I've already done the following but the problem still exist.

Installed a monoblock.
Installed an aluminum upper brace.
Recheck/replaced the engine clutch ball bearings.
Decreased the gap that the clutch bell travels by adding shims inside the clutch bell, compensated with a tighter clutch spring setting.
Always removed first gear and meshed 2nd gear, then install the first gear. Installed 18/24 steel pinions.
Tapered the 2nd gear housing so it doesn't touch the clutch bell.
Shimmed behind the 2 speed shoe housing pin so it doesn't catch the aluminium brace.

What is the root cause of this nagging issue?

Can someone elaborate on the logic behind these suggesions?

-Replaced the inner 2nd gear clutch balls with some bigger ones (S710's ball diff balls)
-Replaced the 2nd gear clutch shoes with the MTX-3 shoes

-How about going to a 4 mm chassis? Is chassis flex the cause?

Thanks in advance for your constructive input.[/QUOTE

the steel pinions are a must have item as once you start stripping gears with the aluminium ones they will keep stripping, also the 2 speed shoes need to be adjusted out until they almost touch the 2 speed housing. this gives you a less harsh change, you will have to re-adjust your change point after doing the adjustment
Are you using Lock Tight? Alot of people I know that have this problem do not use it. I use the blue Lock Tight and tighten the hell out of the mount screws ( upper and lower). Make sure there is no oil or dirt on the threads of the screws, mounts, and chassis. Also make sure you are using the right length screws.
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Old 08-22-2006, 03:54 PM   #5892
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Quote:
Good Stuff Rainier, Can't wait to see it

Brad
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Old 08-22-2006, 07:06 PM   #5893
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I will give you some stuff to throw on there as soon as I get some time, as well as my car back together. I am fighting with the front bearing in the motor right now.
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Old 08-22-2006, 10:02 PM   #5894
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wallyedmonds
if you use a diff with 24 the car is like ummmmm DIRT with a 1 to 2mm split i dont know why but it is,a oneway or noway i say.
I agree 100%.
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Old 08-23-2006, 04:22 AM   #5895
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Quote:
Originally Posted by typer
The diffrence between the two is that the other one has ceramic bearing. I think its the ct that has it.
Thanks ! ...
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