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Old 08-14-2006, 02:08 PM   #5791
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Wjen you were putting on the clutch spring what tools did you yuse? I don't have the mugen tool and I don't want to deform the ring?
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Old 08-14-2006, 02:25 PM   #5792
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Before I got the mugen clutch tool, I used an old snap ring pliers.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=45327
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Old 08-14-2006, 03:11 PM   #5793
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asw7576
I think you are wrong. You raise front roll center without shim.

Upper Arms / Camber Link :
Lower RC = More shims ( MTX4 ) or less angle
Higher RC = Less shims or more angle

Lower Suspension Arms :
Lower RC = Close to chassis ( A block )
Higher RC = Higher from chassis ( C block ).

Low grip track condition or technical track theoretically need C block

High grip track condition or wide open track theoretically need A block.
yes you are right
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Old 08-14-2006, 03:14 PM   #5794
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TomB
50k more exit steer less entry, 30k more entry less exit.

depending ont he type of track you might or might not notice the difference. the thicker diff oil will be noticed more on low bite conditions, the car will feel tailier on exits.
this is very true
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Old 08-14-2006, 10:57 PM   #5795
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asw7576
I think you are wrong. You raise front roll center without shim.

Upper Arms / Camber Link :
Lower RC = More shims ( MTX4 ) or less angle
Higher RC = Less shims or more angle

Lower Suspension Arms :
Lower RC = Close to chassis ( A block )
Higher RC = Higher from chassis ( C block ).

Low grip track condition or technical track theoretically need C block

High grip track condition or wide open track theoretically need A block.
Aight... I have memorized this. One question. What effect does it do on the car lowering/highering the rollcenter on the front/back?
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Old 08-15-2006, 12:34 AM   #5796
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Riketsu
Aight... I have memorized this. One question. What effect does it do on the car lowering/highering the rollcenter on the front/back?
Theoritically lower RC should make your car roll less and vice versa.

Lower RC is theoritically correct for very high grip condition. It makes your car slide but not traction roll at the limit point.

However, reality is different story than theory ( textbook ). Different cars react differently to RC setting. For examples. My MTX3 suddenly can be driven more agressively after using C rear block from A. On the other hand, my MTX4 is going from B to A to relax a bit.

Always use basic setup as starting point before you fine tune the setting to your like.
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Old 08-15-2006, 10:59 AM   #5797
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asw7576
Theoritically lower RC should make your car roll less and vice versa.

Lower RC is theoritically correct for very high grip condition. It makes your car slide but not traction roll at the limit point.

However, reality is different story than theory ( textbook ). Different cars react differently to RC setting. For examples. My MTX3 suddenly can be driven more agressively after using C rear block from A. On the other hand, my MTX4 is going from B to A to relax a bit.

Always use basic setup as starting point before you fine tune the setting to your like.
HIGHER roll center makes the car roll less...........
the car is more responsive altough less traction is generated.........

LOWER roll center makes your car roll more........
the car steers so smoothly, more grip is generated but the slowly steering response makes the car lazy to get in the turn and to change direction........
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Old 08-15-2006, 11:32 AM   #5798
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SalvadoriRacing
HIGHER roll center makes the car roll less...........
the car is more responsive altough less traction is generated.........

LOWER roll center makes your car roll more........
the car steers so smoothly, more grip is generated but the slowly steering response makes the car lazy to get in the turn and to change direction........
Quote:
Originally Posted by asw7576
Theoritically lower RC should make your car roll less and vice versa.

Lower RC is theoritically correct for very high grip condition. It makes your car slide but not traction roll at the limit point.

However, reality is different story than theory ( textbook ). Different cars react differently to RC setting. For examples. My MTX3 suddenly can be driven more agressively after using C rear block from A. On the other hand, my MTX4 is going from B to A to relax a bit.

Always use basic setup as starting point before you fine tune the setting to your like.
Thanks guys. I think i got it.
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Old 08-15-2006, 12:04 PM   #5799
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SalvadoriRacing
HIGHER roll center makes the car roll less...........
the car is more responsive altough less traction is generated.........

LOWER roll center makes your car roll more........
the car steers so smoothly, more grip is generated but the slowly steering response makes the car lazy to get in the turn and to change direction........
Yes, you are right. I remember now Sorry Riketsu.
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Old 08-15-2006, 07:58 PM   #5800
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kidDynomite
Try these:
- flat front sway / stock rear sway
- 37s all around / 2.3-3mm split (depending on race length)
- 50k front diff / 10-20k rear diff
(if it's loose go 30k / 10k)
- Caster clips all in back of front arm
- +.5mm shim under front arm
- try 500 wt oil in front first / then maybe purple springs in front / then purples all around
- you may even try standing up all shocks one hole or at least the rears
- 1.5-2mm droop over ride height in front / 2-4mm droop over ride height rear
- ride height 1mm higher in the rear
- B block rear lower arms
- .5-1 degree toe out front
- 2-2.5 degrees toe in rear (to much rear toe will make your car push more on low grip tracks)

I would experiment with these things one at a time. That way you know what's happening with each change. With your track conditions, you want the car to roll more than normal. Hope some of these help, good luck!
Yeah I will try all the necessary bits and pieces to get the car better and yes I do need that good luck more than anything right now! Thank you
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Old 08-16-2006, 09:36 AM   #5801
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I am still having a hard time getting the clutch spring fitted, any suggestions?
Thanks
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Old 08-16-2006, 10:19 AM   #5802
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jhigga15
I am still having a hard time getting the clutch spring fitted, any suggestions?
Thanks
maybe use some pliers first to push down the spring to relieve some of the tension, then try to turn the nut...
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Old 08-16-2006, 01:38 PM   #5803
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jhigga15
I am still having a hard time getting the clutch spring fitted, any suggestions?
Thanks
You need special tools to do that. Mugen has it ( read the manual for the tool number ) or go to Ace Hardware and find special plier ( long nose with cylindrical tip ).
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Old 08-16-2006, 03:05 PM   #5804
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asw7576
You need special tools to do that. Mugen has it ( read the manual for the tool number ) or go to Ace Hardware and find special plier ( long nose with cylindrical tip ).
Better to get the Mugen clutch adjustment tool, much cleaner and doesn't marrs the nut.
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Old 08-16-2006, 03:32 PM   #5805
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Follow up report on the Pro-Spec brake disc. Checked the disc and surrounding plastic areas for wear, none found. As stated before I slightly rotated the carb to provide a little more clearance and after quite a lot of running there were no marks on the back of the carb. Verdict, it fits fine unmodified with my N12LL3 motor with the slight carb rotation. Brake force was not particularly any greater, but I suspect that the bigger brake disc will provide less overheating. It added quite a lot of rotating mass, 13g vs 6g for the old disc.
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