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Old 08-11-2006, 09:54 AM   #5746
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Originally Posted by Corse-R
Grab some 5x8x3mm. I'm using some sourced from Xray spare parts and work great and are cheap.
Cool, thanks. I thought it could only be 5x8mm..
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Old 08-11-2006, 10:13 AM   #5747
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Originally Posted by Osiris 75
The manual says 5x8mm, will the 5x8x2.5mm work??

5x8x2.5mm is the stock size.
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Old 08-11-2006, 11:16 AM   #5748
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seisick
well, i tried the diff gasket cut into four pieces, more like a en entire shim seated on the plate and not just around the hole, glue them with ca just in case and the old yellow shoe went in, gained about 0.4mm extra life on the shoe and it worked just like without a shim under the shoe, exactly the same, but I just made sure with a couple runs to BREAKIN the shoe since the new exposed part has to be seated at a new angle given by the point of contact with the bell.
my usb connection with the digicam is not working dunno why, but 1 zip tie around the hole and the chassis of the rear lower suspension arm mount (where you place to bushing with a,b,c position) with the zip tie's lock toward the rear, prevents wear on the rear part of your chassis, that's it

happy racing
Seisick, the gaskets didn't work because there is a specific weight to the shoe. You would have to counter weight it with the fly weights. You'll have a hard time trying to match stock settings, so I would go with buying a new one to save you the trouble of setting up the clutch. Then all you have to worry about for your clutch settings are gap and spring settings. Plus it'll feel more consistent when you change those setting to deal with different track grip and layouts. But I give you props for trying. I always tell people, you'll never really know your car unless you take the time to experiment.
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Old 08-11-2006, 12:13 PM   #5749
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Hi guy,

I'm a new MTX-4 owner and I will test it for the fist time this weekend


But what I really want to tell you is that the MTX-4 pdf manual is now online on Mugen site.
http://www.mugenseiki.co.jp/mugen/do...nual_t0050.pdf

Have a nice day

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Old 08-11-2006, 12:26 PM   #5750
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WOW, very nice. Actually PDF of the entire manual, not just scans.
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Old 08-11-2006, 02:57 PM   #5751
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Thats great mugen put the manual online, too bad i just ordered one from nitrohouse.com
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Old 08-11-2006, 05:07 PM   #5752
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There were varying reports on this thread as to whether the MTX3 prospec brake disc fits onto the MTX4. I installed one and it went in perfectly. I measured the original disc vs the pro-spec disc and they are the same size, the main trouble comes from the extra width. It is a super tight fit to my N12LL3 carb, with just a piece of paper being able to slide between them.

I suspect that certain types of motors, Sirios coming to mind, will have a good deal of trouble fitting the disc. However you can actually twist the carb slightly to help fitment. This reduces the "straightline" run of the carb slide aligning with the throttle linkage, but at mild angles is not a real problem.
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Old 08-11-2006, 09:15 PM   #5753
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i tryed this and i dont like how it fits with any motor
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Old 08-11-2006, 11:49 PM   #5754
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AMGRacer
There were varying reports on this thread as to whether the MTX3 prospec brake disc fits onto the MTX4. I installed one and it went in perfectly. I measured the original disc vs the pro-spec disc and they are the same size, the main trouble comes from the extra width. It is a super tight fit to my N12LL3 carb, with just a piece of paper being able to slide between them.

I suspect that certain types of motors, Sirios coming to mind, will have a good deal of trouble fitting the disc. However you can actually twist the carb slightly to help fitment. This reduces the "straightline" run of the carb slide aligning with the throttle linkage, but at mild angles is not a real problem.
Once I tried and I removed it..... back to original disc.

Check these :

1. the brake disc touch underneath brake bracket ( brake upper deck ).
2. the brake disc almost touch the carburator. It will hit in crash situation.
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Old 08-12-2006, 01:14 AM   #5755
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asw7576
Once I tried and I removed it..... back to original disc.

Check these :

1. the brake disc touch underneath brake bracket ( brake upper deck ).
2. the brake disc almost touch the carburator. It will hit in crash situation.
Checked both and mine does not have this issue with number 1. It is super close to the carb as you say, I will try it and see how it goes. I may have a broken car tomorrow
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Old 08-12-2006, 01:35 AM   #5756
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Does anyone have any tips for getting the drivetrain free? I notice there are optional rubber belts. Is it worth degreasing the bearings?
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Old 08-12-2006, 01:43 AM   #5757
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AMGRacer
Does anyone have any tips for getting the drivetrain free? I notice there are optional rubber belts. Is it worth degreasing the bearings?
The bearings will loosen up some as you run the car. I would let that happen naturally. The rubber belts definitely make a difference. I highly suggest getting them.
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Old 08-12-2006, 04:29 AM   #5758
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seisick
asw, do you glue them? nice idea since using a metal shim means more weigth,the gasket could do the same but with less rotating mass.
twoo, i agree that the shoe wears on an angle, as the shoe wears on its contact point, more gap between the shoe and the bell right?therefore this gap (adjusted with shims between nut and first inner bearing) should be checked every while. I could say that the shoes are designed to provide the best grip 'til they wear, but if I can a few practice weekends from using the shims on used yellow shoes, then ok for practice, for racing new one of course!
wally, spending $260 a year just on shoes is no fun! I used gray shoe and super hard, but switched to yellow and ultra hard, it lasted 10 hours just the shoe, and the spring since it's designed for 1/8 will last more than the super hard for sure
thanks for the inputs
I'd like to share a tip, to prevent wear of the chassis on the fronT and rear I use 2 zip ties, my chassis is like new and I chage the zip ties every 30 minutes racing, the ties go around the bumper and the front before the blade bar, and in the rear around the 2 holes of the rear arm mount and the chassis, beware the lock itself should not be on the bottom but hidden. (I now can use for practice very small foams with a higher gearing with no fear of wearing the chassis)
happy racing
Sorry, I just notice this.

I don't glue them. It won't come off.
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Old 08-12-2006, 08:32 AM   #5759
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do they also have the mtx3 manual online. Been looking everywhere to download. Guess Im to cheap to buy one
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Old 08-12-2006, 09:18 PM   #5760
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AMGRacer
Does anyone have any tips for getting the drivetrain free? I notice there are optional rubber belts. Is it worth degreasing the bearings?
dont degrease the bearings and yes rubber is good.
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