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Old 08-05-2006, 10:54 AM   #5671
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Originally Posted by wallyedmonds
whats wrong with the belt tension plate for them to change it,or is the change so you dont have to take it off every time you change your motor and the gas tank why
You can flip the carbon fibre plate, so you can slide the engine out by removing the rear side pulley only.
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Old 08-05-2006, 10:59 AM   #5672
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Today seen som 720's doing their bride run on my local track... I got amazed with all the nightmares and other issues with that car. If this is what snake pit launches to counterattack to the horde of RRR's and MTX4's...

- First issue... almost all of the people tried to assemble this kit, had problems with plastic parts of the shocks being stripped or defective.
- Weird handling... car needs stronger springs to feel planted on the track, if not, they bottom out and drag their chassis on the ground easily. This is worse if they paid for the 4mm chassis.
- Talking about the 4mm brick... errrr... chassis. Is a full 4mm chassis plate who lowers 1 full milimeter their ground clearance... What are thinking those snake engineers? they know there are machines for milling the upper side of the chassis and put 4mm chasis without affecting ground clearance?

Only seen one who thinked right and milled the upper side of the 4mm brick to leave everything on their original place. I cannot understand this move from snake pit... for sure they will steer and on the forthcoming euros a 4mm milled chasis will be used only for official snakes, and of course, after the euros, a new part no, just to substitute the old unmilled chasis and of course, get the money two times from their fellow 720 drivers.

This and of course without counting the myriad of parts just to make their cars stiffer and of course: lighter, the 720 feels like a cow and drives like a cow with their stock setup, glad I got another time a Mugen some time ago and passed for another time from snake guys.
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Old 08-05-2006, 11:42 AM   #5673
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Quote:
Originally Posted by itchy b
if it ain't broke why fix it Miu'gen Miu'gen
they were the only improvements nessesary for the car, its already an awsome car
I second that!
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Old 08-05-2006, 11:44 AM   #5674
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I'm thinking otherwise. I think serpent 720 is very good car with more weight bias towards the front for more steering. The quality of Serpent is comparable to Mugen Seiki.

Every cars have plus and minus.

BTW, I'm sure this car has ALL THE PLUS !
Attached Thumbnails
Mugen MTX-4-01.jpg   Mugen MTX-4-03.jpg   Mugen MTX-4-04.jpg   Mugen MTX-4-06.jpg   Mugen MTX-4-08.jpg  

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Old 08-05-2006, 11:47 AM   #5675
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Five more pics ?
Attached Thumbnails
Mugen MTX-4-07.jpg   Mugen MTX-4-09.jpg   Mugen MTX-4-10.jpg   Mugen MTX-4-02.jpg   Mugen MTX-4-11.jpg  

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Old 08-05-2006, 12:47 PM   #5676
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This car is the Motonica P8.0.... seen a pair of those in action, is a fine car but is a hell of expensive, and the worst thing is it uses a third (and thus different hub configuration) locking wheel system.

Their price is quite high (here costs around 800Euros, but came with a set of tyres). Too much expensive vs. the MRX4, Evolva and the crop of Snakes.
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Old 08-05-2006, 12:58 PM   #5677
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asw7576
Five more pics ?
Looks like the Lamborghini of R/C cars!
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Old 08-05-2006, 05:17 PM   #5678
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Corse-R
Today seen som 720's doing their bride run on my local track... I got amazed with all the nightmares and other issues with that car. If this is what snake pit launches to counterattack to the horde of RRR's and MTX4's...

- First issue... almost all of the people tried to assemble this kit, had problems with plastic parts of the shocks being stripped or defective.
- Weird handling... car needs stronger springs to feel planted on the track, if not, they bottom out and drag their chassis on the ground easily. This is worse if they paid for the 4mm chassis.
- Talking about the 4mm brick... errrr... chassis. Is a full 4mm chassis plate who lowers 1 full milimeter their ground clearance... What are thinking those snake engineers? they know there are machines for milling the upper side of the chassis and put 4mm chasis without affecting ground clearance?

Only seen one who thinked right and milled the upper side of the 4mm brick to leave everything on their original place. I cannot understand this move from snake pit... for sure they will steer and on the forthcoming euros a 4mm milled chasis will be used only for official snakes, and of course, after the euros, a new part no, just to substitute the old unmilled chasis and of course, get the money two times from their fellow 720 drivers.

This and of course without counting the myriad of parts just to make their cars stiffer and of course: lighter, the 720 feels like a cow and drives like a cow with their stock setup, glad I got another time a Mugen some time ago and passed for another time from snake guys.
Most of this is very true, but Serpent does alot of R&D before they put something out on the market. I have the 710 and the 720 and all I can say is the 720 out of the box is night and day faster than the 710. I run at a very high bite track where it is a must to use heavier springs than the stock red ones. For example- I used blue front and grey rear springs. These are the same springs that they put out for the 1/8th scale for high grip situations. Now on the other hand when I go to a low bite parking lot track I run orange front springs and white rear springs due to the low bite with no chassis drag at 5mm front ride height and 5.5mm in the rear. Serpent came out with a milled chassis for the 710 that is 4mm. It came standard on their Serpent 710 Team Car. This was out on the open market and way before Mugen came out with one by almost a year. I know Serpent has a 4mm chassis for the 720 in production but with out proper testing they will not release it!! One thing to consider is that every hop-up is not always beneficial. Case in point if I may. I had a 710 that was stolen from me that had every hop-up from 3 racing that was available. My car was slow and didn't transition well at all. It was even lighter than it was before due to the aluminum screws I installed thru the car to make up for all that bling I had on the car plus ceramic bearings I had installed. I took a box stock 710 Team car and added all of the Serpent hop-up that was available which was less than 1/2 of what 3 racing offers for the car and I was at least 1.5 seconds faster per lap. Thats what we call PERFORMANCE THROUGH EVOLUTION in the Snake Pit But hey everyone can come up with any conclusions they may but just don't knock it untill you try it.
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Old 08-05-2006, 05:34 PM   #5679
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Racer Z
Most of this is very true, but Serpent does alot of R&D before they put something out on the market. I have the 710 and the 720 and all I can say is the 720 out of the box is night and day faster than the 710. I run at a very high bite track where it is a must to use heavier springs than the stock red ones. For example- I used blue front and grey rear springs. These are the same springs that they put out for the 1/8th scale for high grip situations. Now on the other hand when I go to a low bite parking lot track I run orange front springs and white rear springs due to the low bite with no chassis drag at 5mm front ride height and 5.5mm in the rear. Serpent came out with a milled chassis for the 710 that is 4mm. It came standard on their Serpent 710 Team Car. This was out on the open market and way before Mugen came out with one by almost a year. I know Serpent has a 4mm chassis for the 720 in production but with out proper testing they will not release it!! One thing to consider is that every hop-up is not always beneficial. Case in point if I may. I had a 710 that was stolen from me that had every hop-up from 3 racing that was available. My car was slow and didn't transition well at all. It was even lighter than it was before due to the aluminum screws I installed thru the car to make up for all that bling I had on the car plus ceramic bearings I had installed. I took a box stock 710 Team car and added all of the Serpent hop-up that was available which was less than 1/2 of what 3 racing offers for the car and I was at least 1.5 seconds faster per lap. Thats what we call PERFORMANCE THROUGH EVOLUTION in the Snake Pit But hey everyone can come up with any conclusions they may but just don't knock it untill you try it.
i agree with you regarding the LOW(est) quality os 3 racing products...........but funny that serpent usa imports their parts............
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Old 08-05-2006, 08:16 PM   #5680
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asw7576
You can flip the carbon fibre plate, so you can slide the engine out by removing the rear side pulley only.
oh cool that will help a little,and the serpent car is kinda cool the guys up here that are running it are fast and it looks fast, i had one in my hands and again its a very pritty car just like the last one,i think it handles great but im a mugen guy,LOL i like my car better.
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Old 08-05-2006, 08:25 PM   #5681
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this is why i only run the hopups that i need, i still run rear dogbones,but i do run a kanack chassis coz its stiffer than the mugen and i like it.
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Old 08-06-2006, 11:51 PM   #5682
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When using zero off set wheels with a 1mm spacer do you find
that axel thread is not enough for your wheel nuts?
Can someone tell me how they use zero offset wheels.

Thanks
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Old 08-07-2006, 01:40 AM   #5683
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PROVK
When using zero off set wheels with a 1mm spacer do you find
that axel thread is not enough for your wheel nuts?
Can someone tell me how they use zero offset wheels.

Thanks
You can use shorter wheel locknut if you want to use 1mm spacer and zero offset wheels.

The proper way is using +1 offset wheels ( I think is Kawahara and some of GRP wheels ) and still using the original locknut.
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Old 08-07-2006, 01:47 AM   #5684
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Has anyone seen this new mugen seiki bag?

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Old 08-07-2006, 02:10 AM   #5685
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PROVK
When using zero off set wheels with a 1mm spacer do you find
that axel thread is not enough for your wheel nuts?
Can someone tell me how they use zero offset wheels.

Thanks
I use a HPI 1mm shim on the outside of the hex with 0 offset rims and they work fine. Remember with the new Mugen wheelnuts it is not how much thread is exposed does not matter as the knurled inside part grips the rim.
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