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Old 07-22-2006, 03:50 AM   #5491
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Nitro$junkie
yes and shims under rear camber link as well
Nitro$junkie, too much XXXX (Queensland beer) mate. Some of the info you have given TomB is incorrect. Removing shims from underneath the upper front arms is RAISING the roll centre
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Old 07-22-2006, 04:31 AM   #5492
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yep thats right less shims raises the RC
and more shims lowers the RC
who knows what i was thinking this morning
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Old 07-22-2006, 05:28 AM   #5493
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Originally Posted by Nitro$junkie
has any one had problems with the 3racing 2speed all af a sudden first starts sliping its a real pain in the ass what i did to fix the problem is shim up the screw and washer as well as lock tight the spacer first gear sits on other wise it would slip on the 2speed shaft
my problem is the spacer inbetween the 1st gear and the 2nd gear, it wears out and makes the 1st gear wobaly
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Old 07-22-2006, 09:34 AM   #5494
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Originally Posted by Nitro$junkie
its from the 1/10 all in one set up station not the xray electric car
read when i posted that 12:30 in the morning i was wasted just got home from the clubs
I have the xray T2 set-up book and the wording is exactly the same. Since both set-up manuals are produced from hudy, everything in regards to suspension dynamics and set-up are gonna be in the same context word for word.
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Old 07-22-2006, 05:53 PM   #5495
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I just got my MTX-4 home today...any tips I should know?
Thanks
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Old 07-22-2006, 06:37 PM   #5496
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Originally Posted by jhigga15
I just got my MTX-4 home today...any tips I should know?
Thanks
Enjoy Ittttttttttttttttttt
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Old 07-23-2006, 05:21 PM   #5497
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Originally Posted by Roger
Man, this sounds all too familiar. I've read this information somewhere. Oh, let me guess, this is from the set-up book for the xray electric car. Man, you typed all this exactly what the manual reads. Oh, by the way, there is NO WAY (unless modified) you can change the wheelbase of a MTX-4 or 3. Track width, you can change ( 198,199,200mm ), not wheelbase. Trust me, i've spoken to Swauger about this afew times and I had to modify the rear for a shorter wheelbase for my MTX-4.

"the way you adjust the wheelbase is the c spacers that clip on the actual front upper hinge pin it self "

Could you explain this to us. The " C spacer " (or caster clips) that you are reffering changes the caster, NOT THE WHEELBASE !! "

Now, on a xray FK05 or a T2, you can change the wheel base in the REAR ONLY !!!!
You can file the arms a little to be able to put the little clips that you use to change the caster in front or in the rear of the arms to change the wheel base.
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Old 07-24-2006, 03:22 AM   #5498
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Quote:
Originally Posted by THE DOCTOR
You can file the arms a little to be able to put the little clips that you use to change the caster in front or in the rear of the arms to change the wheel base.
you dont need to do this,but if you wont go for it,theres a guy here that did this and it works ok.
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Old 07-24-2006, 03:28 AM   #5499
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I laugh I did this for a short small track, but, I got better results by learning to set the car up.
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Old 07-24-2006, 04:50 AM   #5500
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Quote:
Originally Posted by THE DOCTOR
You can file the arms a little to be able to put the little clips that you use to change the caster in front or in the rear of the arms to change the wheel base.


Use small / technical track setup
Shorten front track width.
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Old 07-24-2006, 08:37 AM   #5501
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Who makes good hop-ups for the MTX-4? I see that 3 racing has a lot. I need some bling, I am thinking of covering my gas tank with pink rinestones so that it matches Paris' sidekick
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Old 07-24-2006, 11:43 AM   #5502
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jhigga15
Who makes good hop-ups for the MTX-4? I see that 3 racing has a lot. I need some bling, I am thinking of covering my gas tank with pink rinestones so that it matches Paris' sidekick
Mugen Seiki and Kawahara.
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Old 07-24-2006, 02:32 PM   #5503
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Thanks
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Old 07-24-2006, 02:52 PM   #5504
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Default Roll Center

This is the simple way I remember roll center in regards to the upper camber links:

more PARALLEL - lower roll center and increase roll of the car. More traction at that end of the car. Less camber change.

more ANGLED - raise roll center and less roll of the car. Less traction at that end of the car. Can use softer shock settings. More camber change

SHORTER - less traction. Car rolls less. Reacts quicker initially and less overall (REAR: more steering (but can cause rear to lift); FRONT: less steering).

LONGER - more traction. Car rolls more to outer edge of tire and gives you more side bite. Reacts slower initially but will react more. (REAR: less steering - need more camber; FRONT: more steering).


Hope that helps (and is correct. LOL!).

-Rich
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Old 07-24-2006, 05:15 PM   #5505
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RichChang
This is the simple way I remember roll center in regards to the upper camber links:

more PARALLEL - lower roll center and increase roll of the car. More traction at that end of the car. Less camber change.

more ANGLED - raise roll center and less roll of the car. Less traction at that end of the car. Can use softer shock settings. More camber change

SHORTER - less traction. Car rolls less. Reacts quicker initially and less overall (REAR: more steering (but can cause rear to lift); FRONT: less steering).

LONGER - more traction. Car rolls more to outer edge of tire and gives you more side bite. Reacts slower initially but will react more. (REAR: less steering - need more camber; FRONT: more steering).


Hope that helps (and is correct. LOL!).

-Rich
How do you change a roll center to be shorter/longer?
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