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Old 07-19-2006, 12:35 AM   #5431
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jprevolution
Hi all thanks for the responses,
I checked the engine brace a couple of weeks ago and found that it was slightly rubbing the cross brace across the engine. I re adjusted everything so there would be no more interference but I am still stripping gears, but the difference is now instead of stripping four teeth in a row, it now seems that it just takes one tooth of the spur at a time like it is just ripping it off on the change to second, I believe it is my clutch but Im not sure whether this would be from the engine clutch or the two speed clutch, any info would be great. I have contacted the mugen distributor here in Australia and he said this has happened to others and believes that if you tighten the spring all the way down on the engine clutch and than back it off one full turn than that should fix the problem, but I was at 1.5 turns and I am still stripping gears I will tighten all the way and see what happens. P.S this was happening on both Mugen and 3racing gears.
If you think the problem is happening when the car shifts from first to second then try this: Remove your 2 speed shoes from the car. Tighten the set screws down evenly that hold the little ball on the 2 sp adapter. Tighten these down so that you now have a gap between the 2 speed shoes. Do a little at a time and test fit the shoes inside the speed hub. You want to make the 2 speed shoes spaced apart as much as you can without the shoes rubbing on the hub. Once you are set, test it for rubbing with it installed on the car. What this does is that it makes it so when the car shifts, the shoes don't have to move very far. This makes the shift much smoother and less violent. I have been doing this since before I got my MTX4 (even back to my MTX 3 days). I have so far only stripped one 2nd gear on my MTX4.
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Old 07-19-2006, 12:48 AM   #5432
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jprevolution
Hi all thanks for the responses,
I checked the engine brace a couple of weeks ago and found that it was slightly rubbing the cross brace across the engine. I re adjusted everything so there would be no more interference but I am still stripping gears, but the difference is now instead of stripping four teeth in a row, it now seems that it just takes one tooth of the spur at a time like it is just ripping it off on the change to second, I believe it is my clutch but Im not sure whether this would be from the engine clutch or the two speed clutch, any info would be great. I have contacted the mugen distributor here in Australia and he said this has happened to others and believes that if you tighten the spring all the way down on the engine clutch and than back it off one full turn than that should fix the problem, but I was at 1.5 turns and I am still stripping gears I will tighten all the way and see what happens. P.S this was happening on both Mugen and 3racing gears.
Replace your bearings on the main shaft (2pc) and clutch bell (3pc).
Use C0111C ball connectors to increase the height of rear stabiliser.
Add 0.3 shim between bearing and 2nd speed clutch on the main shaft.
Replace 3x8mm screws with 3x12mm for rear bulkheads.
Replace rear bulkheads, spur gears, pinion gears with new parts.
Rebuild your flywheel outwards.

Follow the instructions for clutch setting from the manual. I guess is 0.7mm tension gap.
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Old 07-19-2006, 12:53 AM   #5433
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Speedbug
Hey guys, in the pursuit of finding the lowest CG, has anyone tried or know of any detrimental effects to running the shocks inverted?
Speedbug,
I would not recommend inverting the shocks as this increases the unsprung mass of the car (ie. suspension weight), as a result of the shock bodies being supported by the suspension arms. I believe that Josh Cyrul has experimented with inverting shocks, with limited success. A titanium upper screw set, brass battery receptacle or replacing steel components with titanium equivalents (ie. pillow balls, etc) are better alternatives to reduce weight in optimum areas of the car.
Hope this helps,
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Old 07-19-2006, 07:42 AM   #5434
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Are you guys using on/off switches, or some kind of connector? Could you tell me what brand, or style?
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Old 07-19-2006, 08:00 AM   #5435
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I ended up going with the MTX-3 pinions and spurs, and haven't had any more problems stripping gears!! All the Mugen drivers at my local track have done the same!!
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Old 07-19-2006, 08:12 AM   #5436
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Osiris 75
I ended up going with the MTX-3 pinions and spurs, and haven't had any more problems stripping gears!! All the Mugen drivers at my local track have done the same!!
that will throw the gearing way off.
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Old 07-19-2006, 08:23 AM   #5437
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Racer-Oz, I think that you should go with this pipe.


It works really good.

No I tried a differnt one this weekend, and going back to the Mugen Pipe.

Some people like the Skylline pipe.
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Old 07-19-2006, 09:41 AM   #5438
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Originally Posted by 2Fast4U2
Racer-Oz, I think that you should go with this pipe.


It works really good.

No I tried a differnt one this weekend, and going back to the Mugen Pipe.

Some people like the Skylline pipe.
Hey don't make fun of my pipe!! I was able to fit it to my JP modified with some JB Weld and a Dremel.
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Old 07-19-2006, 09:45 AM   #5439
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Osiris 75
I ended up going with the MTX-3 pinions and spurs, and haven't had any more problems stripping gears!! All the Mugen drivers at my local track have done the same!!
I would think that would narrow it down to something bad in the clutch bell, because the spur gears are the same for the MTX-3/4 .8mm. I would look at the parts in your clutch bell very closely. I have never had a problem with gear stripping.
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Old 07-19-2006, 09:56 AM   #5440
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Quote:
Originally Posted by richey
I would think that would narrow it down to something bad in the clutch bell, because the spur gears are the same for the MTX-3/4 .8mm. I would look at the parts in your clutch bell very closely. I have never had a problem with gear stripping.
I've done all of that, and they continue to strup. I switched out the clutcbell and bearing to the MTX-3 sizes, and it works fine, better than the 4!!
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Old 07-19-2006, 10:31 AM   #5441
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Osiris 75
I've done all of that, and they continue to strup. I switched out the clutcbell and bearing to the MTX-3 sizes, and it works fine, better than the 4!!
How do you get the same gear ratio and roll out with MTX-3 gears?
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Old 07-19-2006, 11:36 AM   #5442
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jprevolution
Hi All,
I'm really starting to get frustrated with my MTX-4 no matter what I do it always seems to be stripping 2nd gear...
We got some other great input around pages 165+
There is a slight slop on the main shaft side to side. Some shims before putting on the 2-speed shoes will help. Here is what helped me solve my 2nd gear spurs from getting chewed up ....

Quote:
Originally Posted by kidDynomite
I think I got it.
I pulled off the spurs and then the 2-speed shoes. I noticed on the shoes that there were rubbing marks from the stock engine brace. The brace actually does hang over about .5mm. What I noticed even more was that the wear on the shoes was more apparent where the two shoes butt up together. So when it splits apart, the corner is hanging and banging up on the brace.

So this is how it goes:
- engine revs up and kicks in 1st gear. All is fine with one-way bearing.
- car starts to kick into second, 2-shoe splits apart to grap 2nd gear spur. The gap starts knocking engine brace corner and cause momentary stalls. But since there is no free spin for 2nd gear since it's engaged, the pinion starts chewing away. I also pulled the 2-shoe clutch apart by hand, and I noticed that it can wobble side to side a little. This may also help in catching the brace corner.

Once again, this is only my theory. I have yet to test since I'm waiting for more spurs and pinions.

But if anyone else is having this problem, could you check your 2-speed clutch shoes and stock engine brace for wear? I figure if you just simply grind down the brace on both ends, just in case you flipped it around, you should be fine.
Ever since I grinded down the stock engine brace to eliminate contact with the 2-speed shoes, I have not stripped any 2nd gear. Actually, after about 8-10 runs, the gears still look brand new vs. 3-4min runs then strip. I also run a very, very, very minimal gap between the spurs and pinions for mesh. Still spins very free, but helps stop quick wear.
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Old 07-19-2006, 12:11 PM   #5443
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Quote:
Originally Posted by richey
I would think that would narrow it down to something bad in the clutch bell, because the spur gears are the same for the MTX-3/4 .8mm. I would look at the parts in your clutch bell very closely. I have never had a problem with gear stripping.
I'm using the 1.0mm ..
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Old 07-19-2006, 12:30 PM   #5444
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Now that is interesting. The Old Gears. Wonder what the Ratios' work out to be. Hummmmmmm. Have to check that out. Sounds like a good Idea. Anyone know the internal off top of head. Pretty easy to figure out.
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Old 07-19-2006, 03:50 PM   #5445
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i dont have probs like this so i cant help,i put the 2speed togeather with great care just like my cluch.
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