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Old 06-22-2006, 12:53 AM   #5056
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Slo,
What is your rear ride height, maybe you could reduce it?
What position are your front shocks in, perhaps you could install them in a more verticle position?
Are you racing at the Winterchamps on the 24th?
Hope this helps
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Old 06-22-2006, 03:03 AM   #5057
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kidDynomite
You know what we'd say
Seriously, the 720 is killer, even the RRR/Evo is still the car to beat in my eyes. But the MTX-4 ... I'm diggin it. You can almost throw it down on any track with the stock setting and school with it. I would suggest to get an aftermarket rear shock tower like Skyline and at least front universals (Mugen). Get the parts to make a front diff (posted the parts you'll need). A set of dark blue springs and a 2.2 rear sway bar for tuning.
And spares, but that's a given. And thats basically all I can think of right now to help you get dialed. So that should make your wife happy.
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can you get the link scott posted , you are rigth the front universals is on the list
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Old 06-22-2006, 03:37 AM   #5058
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott Fisher
You need:

T0258 Diff pulley
T0202 Diff cup
C0228 Diff gear (manual says it comes without the little o-rings
T0243 S3 (little o-rings)
T0244 S5 (bigger o-rings)
C0227 Spacer
B06401 2x6 screws..... you might already have some of these.
T0215 Joint pin
Hi Madbeats,
These are the parts required.
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Old 06-22-2006, 04:30 AM   #5059
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thanks man ,thats great
Quote:
Originally Posted by SNACKPACK
Hi Madbeats,
These are the parts required.
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Old 06-22-2006, 05:49 AM   #5060
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SNACKPACK
Slo,
What is your rear ride height, maybe you could reduce it?
What position are your front shocks in, perhaps you could install them in a more verticle position?
Are you racing at the Winterchamps on the 24th?
Hope this helps
Hey SNACKPACK no i am not racing at the winterchamps this year i am in Townsville. I have tried 2 different ride heights, 4.5 & 5 in the front and 5 & 5.5 on the rear. The front shocks are in the stock hole and the rear are down one hole.
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Old 06-22-2006, 01:01 PM   #5061
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slo-MTX4
I run a front spool now. What i am having trouble with is coming into a corner the car is unpredictable and is loose in the rear the only thing that concerns me a bit with that setup of yours is the harder springs in the rear.
Have you tried the 25T pulley? I've been using it and it really makes the car easier to drive. I found that when I switched over to the 25t pulley, I was looking for steering instead of trying to get rid of it. I found the car to be more balanced.
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Old 06-22-2006, 02:14 PM   #5062
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Racing4Evo
Have you tried the 25T pulley? I've been using it and it really makes the car easier to drive. I found that when I switched over to the 25t pulley, I was looking for steering instead of trying to get rid of it. I found the car to be more balanced.
What about rear tires wear for 45 minutes ?

In MTX3 I use 23T front side pulley and the rear tires wear considerably lower rate than using 24T.
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Old 06-22-2006, 02:22 PM   #5063
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asw7576
What about rear tires wear for 45 minutes ?

In MTX3 I use 23T front side pulley and the rear tires wear considerably lower rate than using 24T.
It's always a compromise. At the last race, I had 1.1mm rear tire wear for 32min which in my opinion is not that bad since tire wear is generally high at that track.
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Old 06-22-2006, 02:39 PM   #5064
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Racing4Evo
It's always a compromise. At the last race, I had 1.1mm rear tire wear for 32min which in my opinion is not that bad since tire wear is generally high at that track.
I guess it's minimal...... Not bad at all.

I usually race with 61F / 65R ( 4mm split ) because I feel my car become harder to drive when the rear tires are about the same size with front.
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Old 06-22-2006, 02:43 PM   #5065
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asw7576
I guess it's minimal...... Not bad at all.

I usually race with 61F / 65R ( 4mm split ) because I feel my car become harder to drive when the rear tires are about the same size with front.

Have you tried using the 25t pulley, then using softer tires in the front (traction permitting) to even out the tire wear? You just need to change your setup a bit. It will feel different driving it but the car is more consistent in a long race that way.
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Old 06-23-2006, 11:53 AM   #5066
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hey guys,
i have only recently put together my mtx4 with o.s 12tz and i have no idea wats happening with it. When the car is on the starter box the wheels move quite fast even though i have realeased (counter clockwise) the throttle stop screw and if i release it to much the brakes fully closes the carb. when i put the car on the ground it just stops,when the brakes are on the engines stops and it does not move the slide valve. does anyone know how to fix this, any help will be apreciated
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Old 06-23-2006, 11:56 AM   #5067
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I am no expert but it sounds as if your clutch is engaging too soon, or is dragging. Set your idle so that you have a 1mm or so gap with the brakes compressed so that the brakes will not kill the engine. Now tighten your clutch spring a little bit and see if that helps. You car should idle without spinning the wheels. you may have to readjust your clutch a few times to get it right.
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Old 06-23-2006, 12:39 PM   #5068
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I believe Adim_X is correct.

You need tighten the clutch adjustment nut and set the idle back to stock settings. Then go from there.
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Old 06-23-2006, 04:48 PM   #5069
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Check to see the clutch adjustment. I also think it could be the thrust bearing. If the thrust bearing doesnt work, the clutchbell will move with the movement of the engine and stall when you apply brake.
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Old 06-24-2006, 11:28 AM   #5070
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My clutch has at least 4-5 hours on it and I ahve had no issues with the thrust bearing. I do have a spare in my box for when it does though.
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