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Old 06-07-2006, 01:49 AM   #4921
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Originally Posted by MAVICXXX
few more things i forgot..
-Rear shock tower : its great they came out with 4mm tower,but wit only 2pcs 6mm counter sunk will not do it,rear impact could damage both tower and the mounting. They will check on that.
Things I noticed while racing at the MWS in Toledo last weekend:

- I prepped my Mugen 4mm shock tower prior to the race. Sanded down all sharp edges and CAed to seal. I noticed that the carbon dust was thicker and more white which tell me that the epoxy and fibers used are of a low grade. A 2.5mm quasi-isotropic CF would be a lot stronger than the 0/90 degree 4mm tower. With a hard hit to the rear, my 4mm split long ways from both ends toward the middle of the tower. Pitty, but this is how I learn what works and doesn't for me in racing. BTW, Another guy had the exact same thing happen to him at this race.

- Dennis Richey's G4's 2nd gear stripped in the main, I was thought I could close in on him for pole...until my 2nd gear stripped. Then I got stressed and sloppy. But my slop proved to me that...

- The universals are super strong. I thought the Kyosho's were tought, but these things are king of uni's. The pillow balls too. Smaller than the Kcar's, but definitely stronger. The black Evolva pbs are definitely the best, but they won't fit the MTX-4. But as far as stock pbs go, these are very good.

Over all, the MTX-4 is easy to dial in. I had one of Mugens finest, Ira Shultz, and a very fast buddy, Nick Smrt, in my camp helping me out, it was very easy to see small adjustments make visible handling changes. So, from having driven Kyosho's forever, I would say that the MTX-4 is totally on par with the RRR. I might even say that Mugen is a bit better in it's plastic and metal material quality, the ball end are even better than Xrays and they are also hex for easy removal. No phillips screws on this car, thank you.
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Old 06-07-2006, 02:39 AM   #4922
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oh ok ic
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Old 06-07-2006, 05:26 AM   #4923
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Originally Posted by MAVICXXX
i suspected maybe your bulkhead is not really align.Check out the tensioner too.You can easily detect if the belt is not in good moving motion,the irritates 'tick' sound just too much.Check also your brake pulley assembly,it might not sitting on the shaft as it should..
I am not sure what you mean about the brake pulley might not be sitting on the shaft properly. What should I look for? It seems pretty straight forward to me. The belt has a little bit of gap on the diff pulley side before it is ridding against the flange made onto the pulley. LMK

Last edited by THE DOCTOR; 06-07-2006 at 11:57 AM.
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Old 06-07-2006, 05:33 AM   #4924
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Originally Posted by rcfoolz
The same way I used to do it on my RC10GT.....sand the rear lower arm down in the front just a bit and use a 1 mm shim to move it forward.....just like whats in the RD driver mag this month
What is shortening the wheelbase suppose to change or help?
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Old 06-07-2006, 05:35 AM   #4925
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Originally Posted by THE DOCTOR
I am not sure what you mean about the brake pulley might not be sitting on the shaft properly. What should I look for? It seems pretty straight forward to me. The belt has a little bit of gap on the diff pulley side before it is ridding against the flange made onto the pullet. LMK
mabe you can try and adjust the pulley across towards the side that is rubbing to centralise it better.
maybe the pin has'nt located into the slot properly also
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Old 06-07-2006, 06:01 AM   #4926
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shortening the wheel base is suppose to help in HIGH bite situation to allow the car to turn better.......in fast direction changes, however in large sweeping turns, it would do just the opposite. It would be good if you are running on small electric tracks.
If I am incorrect, please someone correct me. This is just theory. However, I don't realy see a need to do this, there is way too many other adjustments that can be done to make the car do what you want.
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Old 06-07-2006, 09:06 AM   #4927
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MAVICXXX
few more things i forgot..

-Side belt tensioner : it has to be that way coz to avoid the belt from touching the exhaust manefol.They will think of something since we raise a comment that engine dismantling would be easier if the tensioner relocate to little front or review the design. Then i said few after market products already cameout with their solution.

-Upper deck design : engine dismantling is little hassle with their design where even with ball head 2.5mm to engage with engine mount screw is hard coz its too narrow gap.Kenji said he cant see from their design drawing and will look into the matter.

-Rear shock tower : its great they came out with 4mm tower,but wit only 2pcs 6mm counter sunk will not do it,rear impact could damage both tower and the mounting. They will check on that.

but he did mentioned they cameout with tank solution,which I dont know for what matter..and also the centax cluc bell. He look at mine and said this is the OK bell..which i became lost! 1st batch bell is different he said..so anybody got the 1st bell editon?or 1st edition kit?
This is what I do in my car :;

Side Belt Tensioner : flip it so it is directed toward the front.

Upper Deck Design : I guess nothing you can do with it without major modification.

4mm or 6mm Rear Shock Tower : Use 3x16mm countersunk screws to joint the shock tower and bulkhead. Also use 3x10mm or 3x12mm countersunk for top bulkhead.

Clutchbell : Use longer screws like 3x14mm ?

Fuel Tank : Use short piping and 1 novarossi filter to keep it below 75cc.

I also switch back to original mtx4 brake disc ( thin ). MTX3 prospec disc are too thick and it is too close to carburator ( novarossi or jp engines ).
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Old 06-07-2006, 09:16 AM   #4928
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Quote:
Originally Posted by THE DOCTOR
I am not sure what you mean about the brake pulley might not be sitting on the shaft properly. What should I look for? It seems pretty straight forward to me. The belt has a little bit of gap on the diff pulley side before it is ridding against the flange made onto the pullet. LMK
I also want to know.

I check mine, I see 2mm gap in brake shaft vs. the brake lever.
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Old 06-07-2006, 09:37 AM   #4929
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What diameters are you guys truing your tires at. I am a beginner and will probably scrub a lot of the foam off due to poor driving. I would like my foams to last, while still getting decent performance. thanks
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Old 06-07-2006, 10:42 AM   #4930
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Originally Posted by Adim_X
What diameters are you guys truing your tires at. I am a beginner and will probably scrub a lot of the foam off due to poor driving. I would like my foams to last, while still getting decent performance. thanks
For club racing, I usually start the rears at 63mm and the fronts at 61mm.
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Old 06-07-2006, 11:50 AM   #4931
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GrandeGixxer
For club racing, I usually start the rears at 63mm and the fronts at 61mm.
I agree. That is a good starting point. Just preparred you may chunk the rears once in a while. A smear of CA on the outside edge will help some.
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Old 06-07-2006, 12:20 PM   #4932
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Adim_X
What diameters are you guys truing your tires at. I am a beginner and will probably scrub a lot of the foam off due to poor driving. I would like my foams to last, while still getting decent performance. thanks
Try to finish foam tires on the day you play or practice.

The foam tires usually lost its grip when you store it over 2 weeks. It becomes dry and hard to drive.

However, you can still revive the grip by using tire compound but the grip factor is not comparable to brand new tires.
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Old 06-07-2006, 12:29 PM   #4933
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I agree, a friend of mine was complaining about his Hara R40. So we changed out tires with the same shore rating but from different manufacturers. the car went from being very hard to drive to being excellent by changing to new tyres. He didnt tell me the other tires were over 3-4 months old lol.
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Old 06-07-2006, 12:40 PM   #4934
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Can I use MTX3 flywheel to MTX4 ?
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Old 06-07-2006, 12:51 PM   #4935
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asw7576
Try to finish foam tires on the day you play or practice.

The foam tires usually lost its grip when you store it over 2 weeks. It becomes dry and hard to drive.

However, you can still revive the grip by using tire compound but the grip factor is not comparable to brand new tires.
Remove the tyres and put them into a zip lock bag on a dark, dry place and your tyres will not dry out, at least not such quick like being stored in current air.
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