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Old 06-04-2006, 11:16 PM   #4876
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Originally Posted by THE DOCTOR
New belts and gears and they broke again. The top 3 guys all had MTX-4's and we all broke our belts. The other two put new belts on before the 30 min main and still broke. The other two dropped out so I had the lead from the 15 min mark and at the last fuel stop I broke. I am going to try using the stock belts again.

The stock urethane belts will definitely last longer, but my side rubber belt lasted for 3 months, the front rubber belt lasted for 4 months and I changed out the rear one as a precaution at the 4 month mark but it never stripped or broke. FYI, the front and side belt stripped but did not break.
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Old 06-05-2006, 12:30 AM   #4877
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Hi asw7576,

are the spur and pinion gears really becoming thinner???

i really need to know, cos yesterday during my club race.
I stripped my 2nd speed spur on every qualifying heat.
and I'm running stock pinion and spurs setup(17/23 n 59/53).
not only myself... the whole team is suffering from sudden strange happening
and we never had this problem before!!!

Pls enlighten
cos we've up and coming big race next month

HELP!!!!!
had the same problems the stock aluminium pinions wear and then are prone to stripping spurs get yourself some steel pinions they are a must
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Old 06-05-2006, 12:41 AM   #4878
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Originally Posted by chookgb
had the same problems the stock aluminium pinions wear and then are prone to stripping spurs get yourself some steel pinions they are a must

Hi chookgb

we've actually change to a new pinion...
and it stripped again...

could it be the quality of the spurs?
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Old 06-05-2006, 01:09 AM   #4879
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Originally Posted by RR
Hi chookgb

we've actually change to a new pinion...
and it stripped again...

could it be the quality of the spurs?
did you put a steel pinion or standard pinion on, which are aluminium?
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Old 06-05-2006, 01:26 AM   #4880
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Originally Posted by asw7576
They are steel disc.

Yes, you can use metalic brake pads but I don't think it will fit ( I guess they are too thick so keep it original or buy the yellow pads ).
g'day asw7576,
after further inspection of vented disk and pad clearence i had a go at fitting the metalic app pads in there as the pads that were fitted were a home made specials(looks like bits of brake pad from a family car glued onto backing plate )which together were thicker than the app pads
i only had to ream out the holes with a dremell as hole centres were 1-2mm closer together, screwed them in and adjusted them and "TADDAH"!
they worked wonderfully well
good reliable braking and no brake fade to speak of throughout the day
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Old 06-05-2006, 01:31 AM   #4881
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chookgb
did you put a steel pinion or standard pinion on, which are aluminium?

oh... i put on the standard pinion which is aluminium.

you mean... even new standard pinion will strip the spurs too
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Old 06-05-2006, 02:02 AM   #4882
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Originally Posted by RR
oh... i put on the standard pinion which is aluminium.

you mean... even new standard pinion will strip the spurs too
sounds like the gear mesh might be set a little too loose,
when you set the mesh try removing 1st gear spur and setting mesh to 2nd gear fairly close so you only have a tiny amount of movement back and forth, then refit 1st gear and make sure everything spins freely and you should'nt strip gears so frequently.
i set mine up this way just as a friend showed me and have'nt stripped a gear yet in 110 minutes if racing and practice
cheers
joe
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Old 06-05-2006, 03:02 AM   #4883
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Originally Posted by RR
oh... i put on the standard pinion which is aluminium.

you mean... even new standard pinion will strip the spurs too
i am presuming your mesh is fine and your mount screws are all secure, i feel the problem lies mainly in the flex in the chassis which will be solved with the 4mm chassis, but as i said the only consistant solve i have had is to install the optional mugen steel pinions with new spur gears and also to make sure the clutch bell bearings are in good order and the clutch bell is shimmed so there is very little end float to prevent any side ways movement,also the 2 speed housing bearing must be checked as i have had more than one creep out of position which is another source of problems.
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Old 06-05-2006, 03:40 AM   #4884
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chookgb
i am presuming your mesh is fine and your mount screws are all secure, i feel the problem lies mainly in the flex in the chassis which will be solved with the 4mm chassis, but as i said the only consistant solve i have had is to install the optional mugen steel pinions with new spur gears and also to make sure the clutch bell bearings are in good order and the clutch bell is shimmed so there is very little end float to prevent any side ways movement,also the 2 speed housing bearing must be checked as i have had more than one creep out of position which is another source of problems.
Donít forget the carbon fiber battery tray also helped buy eliminating some of the chassis flex.
Since doing the above havent stripped a spur gear
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Old 06-05-2006, 07:56 AM   #4885
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Well, I had my first experience of stripping my 1st gear twice this weekend!!!!
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Old 06-05-2006, 07:58 AM   #4886
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I even tried the MTX3 Spur gears, because I was told the teeth were a little thicker. Stripped that one too!!
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Old 06-05-2006, 08:18 AM   #4887
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What I see often, is that people adjust their pinions and spurs and the 1st gear is fine, but the engine is mounted at an angle and they have way too much play on 2nd gear.

It's a good idea, to take 1st gear spur off, adjust the gap on 2nd gear and the put 1st gear back on and fine adjust.

I haven't stripped a spur yet doing this.
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Old 06-05-2006, 08:39 AM   #4888
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Originally Posted by stefan
What I see often, is that people adjust their pinions and spurs and the 1st gear is fine, but the engine is mounted at an angle and they have way too much play on 2nd gear.

It's a good idea, to take 1st gear spur off, adjust the gap on 2nd gear and the put 1st gear back on and fine adjust.

I haven't stripped a spur yet doing this.
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Old 06-05-2006, 10:47 AM   #4889
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Default thanks a lot Guys

Thanks a lot guys, appreciated the kind support in answering my question

but unfortunately, the advises that you all had gave

I've been there, and done that already

thanks again guys
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Old 06-05-2006, 12:01 PM   #4890
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Default no more stripping

on my first race with the mtx4 about 3 weeks ago, I stripped 2 spurs within an hour, I realized that the mtx4 needs 100% perfect alignment and with endplay, this is what I did to prevent stripping spurs, so far my 3rd spur has lasted since then! that's over 4 hours racing and they're perfect!
1) one piece engine mount, used the kyosho rrr or G4 since I have no access for the 3 racing,kawahara or skyline.
2) when using one of these 2 engine mounts, the engine was located too much within the chasis, so i had to use a spacer between the collect and the front bearing of the engine.
3) 5x7mm 0.1mm associated shims used between all the 5x8mm bearings, clutch nut and thrust bearing, the centax is freer since there's no friction among the 3 bearings, thrust bearing, and clutch bell against the shoe!
4) since I used a one piece engine mount not designed for the mtx4, I needed to add space for the bearing stopper h0756 where the thust bearing sits, I use the 3x4.5mm associated shim.
5) the endplay for the centax is minimun since I use shims before the first clutch bearing, the centax is freer, and when the clutch engage with the perfect alignment the spurs are always in contact with the steel pinions.
beware that as the clutch shoe wears ( i use yellow) you'll have to readjust the space between the shoe and bell and therefore the hole alignment, it's worth at the end cuz my 2nd spur has lasted more than 4 hours of racing.
6) I forgot to mention that I also use a 6x8 0.1mm shim between the pin and the bearing for the 2nd gear hub, cuz I noticed that there was a little touching with the rear brace, it was this or dremeling the rear brace, i preferred the shim!
7) 3x10mm cap screws for the engine mount and 3x10mm flat head screws for the chassis, extra 2mm tightening!
5x7 shims associated 2293
3x4.5 shims associated 2321
6x8 shims, can't find the number but I think they're hpi

happy racing!
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