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Old 04-10-2006, 09:29 PM   #4261
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Last edited by Bigtbone; 04-10-2006 at 10:11 PM.
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Old 04-11-2006, 03:16 AM   #4262
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Edgar Millenium
Thanks Guys I juts bent it back, it looks good now

That's what I would have done. Keep in mind that after a while the chassis will end up getting twisted (tweaked) beyond repair. That's a good time to change it.

If you want to use the new chassis at the next race, suggest you devote some practise time to it. Changing from a 3mm to a 4mm may change your driving habits a bit. The car could be stiffer and certainly heavier. A thicker chassis might have a little less roll but whether it's significant I couldn't tell you. I've only used a 3mm with the MTX-4.

Generally, a stiffer car has less roll and can be a quicker car with drivers that are experienced. A car with less roll can have less grip but in a high grip situation, you want to give up some grip for more speed on corners. On the other hand a quick car can also be tougher to drive. It is less forgiving of mistakes.

Anyway, the point here is, I suggest you not swap in a part you've never tried before on the day of the race.

Good luck.
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Old 04-11-2006, 03:29 AM   #4263
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Quote:
Originally Posted by going4#1
That's what I would have done. Keep in mind that after a while the chassis will end up getting twisted (tweaked) beyond repair. That's a good time to change it.

If you want to use the new chassis at the next race, suggest you devote some practise time to it. Changing from a 3mm to a 4mm may change your driving habits a bit. The car could be stiffer and certainly heavier. A thicker chassis might have a little less roll but whether it's significant I couldn't tell you. I've only used a 3mm with the MTX-4.

Generally, a stiffer car has less roll and can be a quicker car with drivers that are experienced. A car with less roll can have less grip but in a high grip situation, you want to give up some grip for more speed on corners. On the other hand a quick car can also be tougher to drive. It is less forgiving of mistakes.

Anyway, the point here is, I suggest you not swap in a part you've never tried before on the day of the race.

Good luck.
In general stiffer chassis produce more understeer especially on technical track layout and getting out a sweeper on power. Nothing to do with body roll because mugen 4mm chassis usually are milled down to original specs.

I'm start liking to use 3mm chassis ( as my driving skill is improving : less accidents and need more steering ).

Quote:
Originally Posted by going4#1
Anyway, the point here is, I suggest you not swap in a part you've never tried before on the day of the race.
Absolutely true
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Old 04-11-2006, 06:21 AM   #4264
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Edgar Millenium
Thanks Guys I juts bent it back, it looks good now

It will bent back if you keep "bumping" into people at the track.
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Old 04-11-2006, 07:38 AM   #4265
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Riketsu
It will bent back if you keep "bumping" into people at the track.
Welllll.......

They needed a little help to get a little faster
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Old 04-11-2006, 09:05 AM   #4266
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Edgar Millenium
Welllll.......

They needed a little help to get a little faster
Im pretty sure it was just you didnt want to waste brakes and used their rear bumper to come to a complete stop.
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Old 04-11-2006, 09:49 AM   #4267
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can anyone help? I am building my mtx4, and i was wanting to know how much i should screw in the front and back pivot balls on both the front and rear arms. Also, in reference to the width being 199mm, is this from one end of the axle to the other?
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Old 04-11-2006, 11:34 AM   #4268
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Blank, the measurements are from the outside bottom of a right tire to the opposite outside bottom of a left tire. Measure front rt to front left and the back the same way. Hope I made sense to ya.
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Old 04-11-2006, 12:47 PM   #4269
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blanks596
can anyone help? I am building my mtx4, and i was wanting to know how much i should screw in the front and back pivot balls on both the front and rear arms. Also, in reference to the width being 199mm, is this from one end of the axle to the other?
Be sure that when you measure, it's 100mm on each side of the car from the center - otherwise, one side will be wider than the other. When you buy tires for the car, make sure to take note of the offset, because if you get wheels that have a different offset from the ones you are using now, it will change the trackwidth of the car.
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Old 04-11-2006, 01:13 PM   #4270
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asw7576
In general stiffer chassis produce more understeer especially on technical track layout and getting out a sweeper on power. Nothing to do with body roll because mugen 4mm chassis usually are milled down to original specs.

I'm start liking to use 3mm chassis ( as my driving skill is improving : less accidents and need more steering ).



Absolutely true
Totally agreed. I tried 4mm for durability reason, but 3mm allows more turning/body roll
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Old 04-11-2006, 01:24 PM   #4271
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i just both the 21/29 52/60 for my mtx4 but i have to use the clutchbell for 8 scale so when i run couple laps the 2nd gear strip out twice. Anyone whats da problem?

Last edited by Joe Os; 04-11-2006 at 07:01 PM.
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Old 04-11-2006, 09:48 PM   #4272
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Joe Os
i just both the 21/29 52/60 for my mtx4 but i have to use the clutchbell for 8 scale so when i run couple laps the 2nd gear strip out twice. Anyone whats da problem?
Should be 21/58 (1st) 27/52 (2nd) as in mtx3 manual.

The problem of your stripping spur gear is gear selection you choose is wrong. You need to go up / down by the same rate and increment for first and second gear. Ditto with pinion gear.

Pinion gear 21 - 27 = 6 teeth differences
Spur gear 53 - 59 = 6 teeth difference. Ditto with 52 - 58 = 6.
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Old 04-11-2006, 10:09 PM   #4273
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hey... I am starting to build my MTX4 and i was wondering how far do you screw in the grub screws on the front and rear arms for the lower shock mount?
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Old 04-11-2006, 10:16 PM   #4274
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Who has the cheapest deal on the MTX-4?
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Old 04-11-2006, 10:23 PM   #4275
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asw7576
Should be 21/58 (1st) 27/52 (2nd) as in mtx3 manual.

The problem of your stripping spur gear is gear selection you choose is wrong. You need to go up / down by the same rate and increment for first and second gear. Ditto with pinion gear.

Pinion gear 21 - 27 = 6 teeth differences
Spur gear 53 - 59 = 6 teeth difference. Ditto with 52 - 58 = 6.
As Joe Os runs 21/29 (1st) & 52/60 (2nd), I have a something to mention.
His gear combinations are 21/52 (2.47) first and 29/60 (2.06) second gear.
2.47 - 2.06 = .41 , this figure is incredibly small so when the tranny shifts into 2nd gear the engine's rpm will only drop very little. (I know Surikarn used to run .45 on his mrx3).

The stock mtx3 suggests to run 21/58 (1st) (2.76) and 27/52 (2nd) (1.92). So if we do a little math for those figures, they'll be 2.76 - 1.92 = .84 ; and there'll be more engine's rpm drop during the tranny shifting.
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