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Old 04-10-2006, 08:30 PM   #4246
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hello everyone, i am new to this onroad but went with the best. this is my first car, and i read alot of the threads but just too many, so here is my question. what is meant by say like a shore 37, 40 and so forth. also what is the prefered type of tire rubber or foam. i am in the breakin process right now a RBMods LR3 with a RB pipe and header, a ballistic powerplant. i am going to start with the kit setup for starters, but like always any tips are appreciated. thanks
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Old 04-10-2006, 08:34 PM   #4247
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Edgar Millenium
Hi Guys!!!

I will be traveling soon, and will take my cars with me..... I am cleaning my MTX4 and found that if I remove the upper tray the chassis bend a little, about 1/8 in difference from the front end and the rear end, but with the upper plate, is looks straight if I use setting blocks.

Do you think that I should chage it or no?? What about a 4mm Chassis instead the stock one?

Thanks
Edgar
Edgar:

You can remove the parts from the chassis in sections and then try to flatten out the chassis again by applying backward pressure at the point of the bend. Maybe not as good as new but handling should not be greatly affected. Typically the Mugen chassis will bend about 3/4 from the front, toward the rear just in front of the first engine mount (i.e. the mount closest to the font) so look there if the bend is present. If the bend is right at the front, trickier to flatten and I'd watch for cracks. If the chassis cracks, I wouldn't use it.

additionally

if the chassis is twisted, I would toss it. Certain bends are easy to fix but a twist is very difficult. A twist will also have a greater negative effect on the car's handling too.

Suggest an upgrade chassis. I use the Kawahara and it's only 3mm but much more sturdy than the Mugen. I've haven't used a 4mm but I wonder if weight is an issue??
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Old 04-10-2006, 08:43 PM   #4248
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Quote:
Originally Posted by r1harper
hello everyone, i am new to this onroad but went with the best. this is my first car, and i read alot of the threads but just too many, so here is my question. what is meant by say like a shore 37, 40 and so forth. also what is the prefered type of tire rubber or foam. i am in the breakin process right now a RBMods LR3 with a RB pipe and header, a ballistic powerplant. i am going to start with the kit setup for starters, but like always any tips are appreciated. thanks
Different shores 37, 40 so forth refers to the firmness of the foam. To make it easy, the higher the number, the harder the foam. Harder foam means less grip. Being new, there are definitely times when harder foam is better.... Less wear, less traction roll etc. In the USA, most nitro onroad racing is done on foam tires.

For setup help, a lot depends on the track and the surface prep (traction level). Start with the kit setup and then make changes to help. If you are new, I would suggest getting a less expensive pipe to learn with. They tend to get crushed and the RB is an expensive lesson to learn. Good pipe, but not a training pipe.
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Old 04-10-2006, 08:44 PM   #4249
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Rob:

The chassi start to bend where you say, close to the battery end and engine mount. If I lay it alone, the difference is about 1/8 of an inch. I doesn't look twisted, only bent. I do have 4mm 3 racing chassis in stock, so if you think I sholud change it, I think I should do it now.
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Old 04-10-2006, 08:51 PM   #4250
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thanks for the input. i already had the pipe so no loss there, also i am running a Lexus is 250 body at the moment. i will be racing on a tight track this weekend, so really dont know what to expect with the oneway and all, it is tricky on the brakes i know that much. i am hearing about the rear tower being a bit weak, my lhs does not carry parts for it so a small have to have parts list would do also, and thanks again
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Old 04-10-2006, 08:52 PM   #4251
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GrandeGixxer
Bigtbone, I usually get all my spares from Acehardwarehobbies.com or RC-Mushroom.com

I will try ace. mushroom site has been down tonight..
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Old 04-10-2006, 08:53 PM   #4252
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Edgar, I bent mine back and am just keeping the 4mm one for a spare. It will only take 10 minutes to change if it gets bent again. The 4mm is wuite a bit heavier and my car is a pig to begin with. But with the stock chassis bent back, the car is not tweaked at all after I set it all up.
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Old 04-10-2006, 08:54 PM   #4253
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott Fisher
That would be better.
Thankz bro
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Old 04-10-2006, 08:55 PM   #4254
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It is down? I was wondering why it kept taking me to the damn search page. I was starting to get pissed.
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Old 04-10-2006, 09:01 PM   #4255
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Which one is better gearing for the large track 21/60 29/52 or 16/60 24/52?

Last edited by Joe Os; 04-10-2006 at 09:16 PM.
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Old 04-10-2006, 09:07 PM   #4256
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Originally Posted by Joe Os
Which one is better gearing for the large track 21/60 29/52 or 21/60 24/52?
As Scott already said, you need to ahve the same number of teeth split between the pinions and spurs. The 21/60 24/52 will not work. Your 2nd gear probably would not even touch.
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Old 04-10-2006, 09:10 PM   #4257
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigtbone
I will try ace. mushroom site has been down tonight..
Try to go this site rc-toro.com
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Old 04-10-2006, 09:17 PM   #4258
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GrandeGixxer
As Scott already said, you need to ahve the same number of teeth split between the pinions and spurs. The 21/60 24/52 will not work. Your 2nd gear probably would not even touch.
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Old 04-10-2006, 09:19 PM   #4259
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Support authorized dealers.

Use Nitrohouse, Ace, Winners Circle... etc.
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Old 04-10-2006, 09:25 PM   #4260
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Thanks Guys I juts bent it back, it looks good now

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