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Old 04-05-2006, 11:44 PM   #4186
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Originally Posted by Bigtbone
What are my options to stop tracksion rollz?
I be running the stock set-up
For high traction situations, use a higher roll center ( less distance between the RC and CG ). This prevents the car from transfering too much weight and feeling lazy when transitioning between left and right turns ( or vice versa ), or worst, traction rolling. Raising the front roll center will take away steering, and in the rear, it will take away grip. Or try harder shore rated tires. Hope this helps.
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Old 04-06-2006, 04:38 AM   #4187
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Default still not sure how to do on the car

Thanks fellas..
I am very new to this car.
I wil definately try the camber.
how do I measure the track width?
should I just use washers? on the arm mounts?
What is the set-up boatd that most people use?
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Old 04-06-2006, 05:12 AM   #4188
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigtbone
Thanks fellas..
I am very new to this car.
I wil definately try the camber.
how do I measure the track width?
should I just use washers? on the arm mounts?
What is the set-up boatd that most people use?
how do I measure the track width? Ruler, outside edge of tires

Before you do the below ( affect Roll Center ), I hope you try the above suggestions FIRST ONE BY ONE and see what happen. If your car don't traction roll anymore you can skip the below.

should I just use washers? on the arm mounts? MTX4 front upper arm position, you could remove the 1mm shim below the front upper arm mount. This makes higher roll center ( more V angle ) reducing the chance of traction roll. At the rear, you could lower the rear upper link at carbon fibre plate to very bottom hole position..... I prefer that because it's more side grip for mtx4 and mtx3.
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Old 04-06-2006, 05:33 AM   #4189
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bigtbone
Thanks fellas..
I am very new to this car.
I wil definately try the camber.
how do I measure the track width?
should I just use washers? on the arm mounts?
What is the set-up boatd that most people use?
I will be at the track each week so you can use my Hudy board to check the width. Mike Keely
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Old 04-06-2006, 05:23 PM   #4190
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Ok guys I am going to give you the same question I just asked the guys on the V1RRR thread. What makes the MTX4 the car to have vs the V1RRR WC. I admit with my previous experience with Mugen vs Kyosho I would pick the Kyosho but thats in 1/8th buggies. I have been offered a good price on MTX4 but it seems to need more hop-ups to really be race ready like universals for instance.

What makes the MTX4 the car to have? I plan to race on a large permanent track if that makes any difference.
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Old 04-06-2006, 05:29 PM   #4191
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Originally Posted by PTP Racing
Ok guys I am going to give you the same question I just asked the guys on the V1RRR thread. What makes the MTX4 the car to have vs the V1RRR WC. I admit with my previous experience with Mugen vs Kyosho I would pick the Kyosho but thats in 1/8th buggies. I have been offered a good price on MTX4 but it seems to need more hop-ups to really be race ready like universals for instance.

What makes the MTX4 the car to have? I plan to race on a large permanent track if that makes any difference.
Hop-ups are just for looks. The only hop-ups you need are universals and aluminum hexes. Thats it. Honestly, I'd say the quality of parts that Mugen produces is far better than Kyosho. Not to mention that Kyosho changes their car far more often than Mugen. This can be seen with the 1/8 buggies and 1/10 sedans...
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Old 04-06-2006, 05:33 PM   #4192
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OK but if you add the universals and hexes to the cost of the mtx4 it is the same or higher than the v1rrr wc.

And in my experience racing 1/8th buggies yes Kyosho cost more but it was worth the money I had a MBX5 I sold to buy a Kanai 2 which I wish I still had it was the best r/c car I ever had.
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Old 04-06-2006, 05:39 PM   #4193
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PTP Racing
OK but if you add the universals and hexes to the cost of the mtx4 it is the same or higher than the v1rrr wc.

And in my experience racing 1/8th buggies yes Kyosho cost more but it was worth the money I had a MBX5 I sold to buy a Kanai 2 which I wish I still had it was the best r/c car I ever had.
I dont have much experience with 1/8s. But I had a 1/8 Kyosho (Inferno DX)before taking a 2 year break from the hobby. When I came back, there were already 4 or more other versions of the Kyosho 1/8 available. According to someone else that said on another thread, Kyosho is constantly upgrading their cars. While the Mugen MTX-3 was around for almost 3-4 years before there was even word of the MTX-4. They are both awesome cars, but I prefer the Mugen for the parts availability in my area and the material used in the parts.
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Old 04-06-2006, 05:42 PM   #4194
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So in onroad mugen is the most durable?

Durability is very important to me I would rank it as the most important thing.

What about handling? Anyone had both these cars? Which is your favorite?
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Old 04-06-2006, 06:40 PM   #4195
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What hop-ups will I need for my new MTX-4? What hop-ups are just bling? Thanks in advance.
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Old 04-06-2006, 06:54 PM   #4196
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Jammin, if you look on this very page, you will find the answer to your question. For me, along with the CVD's and wheel hexes, I like the Mid chassis brace as well as the front sway bar holder from 3Racing.
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Old 04-06-2006, 10:13 PM   #4197
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dont forget to beef up your rear shock tower, it's the weakest point i have found so far.
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Old 04-07-2006, 03:04 AM   #4198
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tag
dont forget to beef up your rear shock tower, it's the weakest point i have found so far.
speaking of which here is my 'home made' job
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Old 04-07-2006, 03:20 AM   #4199
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Chris what material is that made out of? It looks metal. NIce job too.
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Old 04-07-2006, 03:28 AM   #4200
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thanks mate, its fibre glass, stonger than 2 together,

look at the other side (wheel nuts)
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