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Old 03-23-2006, 11:46 AM   #3961
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[RANT]Arggg...damn my friend for makin me fix his MTX4...and after bringin it to the LHS to get spares I see another mtx4 (with JP...Sohlmans ride) now I feel like buying a tourer! NOOOO!!!!!! [/rant end]
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Old 03-23-2006, 02:26 PM   #3962
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Quote:
Originally Quoted by: The Doctor I set mine with feeler gauges between two of the washers that set your end play.
Should the endbell spin after I adjust it correctly.
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Old 03-23-2006, 02:32 PM   #3963
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seisick
the sway bar has two ends, one is a kind of male and the other female, right, if you introduce the male part too much it will not let the downstops seat properly cuz there´s binding caused by the sway bar.

I know exactly what you are talking about. What you are finding is that if you take one sway bar blade off the front of the car. Set your drop and down stops, get everything perfect, then put that blade you took off back on you, just can't get the tweak out of that one side of the front suspension. And adjusting that little cam on the left lower arm doesn't really do the trick and just upsets your drop settings......right?? This is what I found. Due to manufacturing tolerances, the sway bar blades are not lined up perfectly on all cars. What you need to do is bend just slightly either side of the sway bar up or down to match the other side so that both arms drop on to the down stops equally.

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Old 03-23-2006, 04:05 PM   #3964
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I wouldn't recommend bending the sway bar, it will be bent in the "wrong direction" when you rotate it to make adjustments. I've had plenty of Mugens and never had to do this; maybe it's MTX4 thing but I doubt it. If it's already bent, replace it.

You adjust the left side bar for tweak with both bars connected.
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Old 03-23-2006, 05:15 PM   #3965
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The 3Racing mounts are very nice for only 18 bucks. RD Logics used to import the 3racing parts for the MTX-3 and rebadge them. Kinda like Skyline does with some of the Sato Seiki parts. To set the droop the easiest, just get the mounts with cams on both sides. It is so much easier. I had them on my -3 and it was way better. Now I bought the one for the -4 and am equally happy with it.
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Old 03-23-2006, 07:43 PM   #3966
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcfiend
Should the endbell spin after I adjust it correctly.
Yes. If it does not then the engine will never idle and let the car come to a complete stop and have the engine still running.
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Old 03-23-2006, 07:54 PM   #3967
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ralph m
I wouldn't recommend bending the sway bar, it will be bent in the "wrong direction" when you rotate it to make adjustments. I've had plenty of Mugens and never had to do this; maybe it's MTX4 thing but I doubt it. If it's already bent, replace it.

You adjust the left side bar for tweak with both bars connected.
From what I seen its not the bar that is bent, its just that the mount is not perfectly aligned. When I say "bend" the bar, I don't mean grab it with a ViseGrip. A very very small amount is all that is needed. Also when you rotate the bars for adjustment you just do it in the same direction and they stay aligned. My MTX-3 had the same slight mismatch. Cams on both side helps with tweek for sure but not for aligning the sway bar. Anyway not trying to change any hearts....just exchanging idea's.
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Old 03-23-2006, 08:36 PM   #3968
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Default rebound stop

Is rebound stop Mugen's fancy way of saying droop? If I put my chassis on my 0 blocks I set the front upright where they touch the 2 on my droop guage then I am set like the set up that comes with the kit, right? I haven't ran it yet... Is that set up any good?? Anyone have a better one? Thanks in advance......
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Old 03-23-2006, 08:46 PM   #3969
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THANKS everyone so much for giving me so much ideas on solving the front sway bar problem, I think I will take off the front sway holders to inspect the slots aliments, I believe I'm just one of those super unlucky guy getting the car from the first batch....first bulkheads problem, then defective turnbuckles, then drive cup couldnt fit in to bearings......now the front sway holders....sigh......o wellz, at least the overall quality and finish of the chassis compensate on the bugs....also especially from the help of you guys. THANKS again.....now time to take out my tools again >_<;
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Old 03-24-2006, 07:44 AM   #3970
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Has anyone tried eagle racing lighten 2 speed housing and 1st gear adapter? Any bad experiences?
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Old 03-24-2006, 07:59 AM   #3971
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Quote:
Originally Posted by typer
Has anyone tried eagle racing lighten 2 speed housing and 1st gear adapter? Any bad experiences?

I hate to bad mouth any company, but most racers that I know including myself that have used the adapters have had problems with bearing quality(particularly one-way). I went back to the stock housings and never had a problem again.
Just my 0.02 cents.
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Old 03-24-2006, 08:48 AM   #3972
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jamie Corrado
I hate to bad mouth any company, but most racers that I know including myself that have used the adapters have had problems with bearing quality(particularly one-way). I went back to the stock housings and never had a problem again.
Just my 0.02 cents.
Agreed.

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Old 03-24-2006, 11:45 AM   #3973
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I had some fail and Now I just use the stock ones that I lightened, but also I had to make sure they were balanced. I agree with you Jamie
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Old 03-24-2006, 11:49 AM   #3974
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I just got a three racing lightened two speed shaft I hope that there is no problems with them.
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Old 03-24-2006, 01:07 PM   #3975
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcfoolz
I had some fail and Now I just use the stock ones that I lightened, but also I had to make sure they were balanced. I agree with you Jamie
rcfoolz,
Check PM.
Thanks.
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