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Old 03-12-2006, 08:32 PM   #3826
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how much of an advantage is there to lowering the battery 1mm? and the fuel tank the same?
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Old 03-12-2006, 10:06 PM   #3827
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not much at all
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Old 03-12-2006, 10:29 PM   #3828
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Ok...Well, so much for that idea.
The reason I asked: I cut a radio tray that lowered the battery from a top hight of 20.7mm to 18.11mm....and the pannel is perfectly flat to the bottom of the chassis now.... and I also cut another that placed the battery in an inclined position, and the lower battery pannel was inclined as to creat center down force.Would this be legal?

to test it, I placed an air nozzel in front of the chassis with the tires on scales. I opened the air nozzel as to allow 20psi to flow under the car. The effect was the car gained 15grams of weight. With the chassis being flat, under the same test, the car did not gain anything, it just fluctuated about 5 grams.
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Last edited by rcfoolz; 03-12-2006 at 10:41 PM.
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Old 03-12-2006, 10:34 PM   #3829
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I tried the shocks upside down the other day and didnt feel any different to having them up the right way apart form making the car a bit smoother.
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Old 03-13-2006, 06:06 AM   #3830
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Default Keep losing 2nd gear...

I keep losing the 2ng gear on my mtx4

Any of you had this same problem? How did you solve it?

Thanks in advance
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Old 03-13-2006, 06:19 AM   #3831
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I know of seven guys running the MTX-4 yesterday and none of us had a problem with the gears.

Last edited by THE DOCTOR; 03-13-2006 at 09:20 AM.
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Old 03-13-2006, 08:53 AM   #3832
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ruicortez
I keep losing the 2ng gear on my mtx4

Any of you had this same problem? How did you solve it?

Thanks in advance
I had this problem at first and did this:

-When gear meshed, i took away the 1st gear and just basicly meshed the second gear and the first gear would fit perfectly.
-Replaced the original steel balls for serpent 710's diff balls (need to open up the hole a bit)
-Replaced the MTX-4 2nd gear clutch shoes for the MTX-3
-Went back to stock gearing: 59/53, 17/23
-Increased the gap between clutch shoes

The gears survived a 30 minute main, 5 rounds of qualifying and about 7 tanks of practice.
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Old 03-13-2006, 09:34 AM   #3833
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Have a question and don't know if anyone has tried it yet. What happens when you add or remove spacers from the upper front a-arm block? More or less steering entering or leaving?????
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Old 03-13-2006, 09:46 AM   #3834
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Quote:
Originally Posted by THE DOCTOR
Have a question and don't know if anyone has tried it yet. What happens when you add or remove spacers from the upper front a-arm block? More or less steering entering or leaving?????
According to a fellow mugen driver at the track, increasing the spacers increases the steering. I heard that Art and Joaquin were both using 1.5mm instead of 1mm to provide more steering on their car...
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Old 03-13-2006, 12:15 PM   #3835
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Default 4mm rear shock towers. I have 3 left. New Price

http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...5&page=2&pp=20
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Old 03-13-2006, 01:26 PM   #3836
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gonad

I will take what you have left.

Thanks,
Joe Maxey
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Old 03-13-2006, 01:46 PM   #3837
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Hey...Im looking at getting the MTX-4 and was just wondering if the open gearbox will give me trouble if i have some gravel on the road where i will be driving it? Will the closed gearbox of the R40 Hara Edition be better for the conditions?
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Old 03-13-2006, 01:55 PM   #3838
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ruicortez
I keep losing the 2ng gear on my mtx4

Any of you had this same problem? How did you solve it?

Thanks in advance
I solved my problem by buying a 1-piece engine mount, taking away almost all the play in the thrust-bearing, meshing the gears to the pinion as tight as possible where they still spin when I roll the rear wheels backwards on a table and finally, buying a better tool to tighten up the engine-mount screws. I did not have enough leverage to twist the screws tight enough and found out with my T-shaped tool that I could still turn all of the screws another 3 hours. So I think that was my biggest problem. I lost 2nd gear yesterday due to a rock or something getting in the way.
Attached Thumbnails
Mugen MTX-4-rctechaustinhobbiesstripedgear1.jpg   Mugen MTX-4-rctechaustinhobbiesstripedgear2.jpg   Mugen MTX-4-rctechaustinhobbiesstripedgear3.jpg   Mugen MTX-4-rctechaustinhobbiesstripedgear4.jpg   Mugen MTX-4-austinhobbiestrackinyellow.jpg  

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Old 03-13-2006, 02:52 PM   #3839
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Quote:
Originally Posted by propain
The manufacteur is GRP
I don't know who the manufacturer is but they are "Red Box" tires. Here in the US they are sold thru Kyosho America. The rims are strong and the foam is good but they are not cheap.
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Old 03-13-2006, 04:04 PM   #3840
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mgreen
I solved my problem by buying a 1-piece engine mount, taking away almost all the play in the thrust-bearing, meshing the gears to the pinion as tight as possible where they still spin when I roll the rear wheels backwards on a table and finally, buying a better tool to tighten up the engine-mount screws. I did not have enough leverage to twist the screws tight enough and found out with my T-shaped tool that I could still turn all of the screws another 3 hours. So I think that was my biggest problem. I lost 2nd gear yesterday due to a rock or something getting in the way.
mgreen, in that first pic, it looks like that your brake lever is fully forwards even when your carb is fully closed. Does you brake work?
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