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Old 02-22-2006, 10:00 PM   #3526
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott Fisher
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YGPM
Hi scott,

any special reasons for the 23T?
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Old 02-22-2006, 10:03 PM   #3527
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tag
can't figure why they make 23t in the first place, i have tried and needed to run some crazy splits like 6mm to get the car run right
Maybe Drag Race? lol
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Old 02-22-2006, 10:14 PM   #3528
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vinyard
Hi scott,

any special reasons for the 23T?
Honestly I think somebody in Japan hit the wrong buttons on their calculator. The most telling thing is that the original kits came with 23 and 24 pulleys, and they now come with 24 and 25 pulleys.

For those guys that wear out rears fast, start with a 5-6mm split and a 23t pulley. When the rears wear some, switch to the 24t and when the tires are the same size, use the 25????????
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Old 02-22-2006, 10:51 PM   #3529
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott Fisher
Honestly I think somebody in Japan hit the wrong buttons on their calculator. The most telling thing is that the original kits came with 23 and 24 pulleys, and they now come with 24 and 25 pulleys.

For those guys that wear out rears fast, start with a 5-6mm split and a 23t pulley. When the rears wear some, switch to the 24t and when the tires are the same size, use the 25????????
Are talking the side pulleys ? ( rear bulkhead, near to engine manifold ? )
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Old 02-22-2006, 11:00 PM   #3530
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asw7576
Are talking the side pulleys ? ( rear bulkhead, near to engine manifold ? )
Its the front outside one.
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Old 02-22-2006, 11:14 PM   #3531
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front side pulley
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Old 02-23-2006, 12:08 AM   #3532
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott Fisher
Honestly I think somebody in Japan hit the wrong buttons on their calculator. The most telling thing is that the original kits came with 23 and 24 pulleys, and they now come with 24 and 25 pulleys.

For those guys that wear out rears fast, start with a 5-6mm split and a 23t pulley. When the rears wear some, switch to the 24t and when the tires are the same size, use the 25????????

U must be joking..
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Old 02-23-2006, 05:27 AM   #3533
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tag
for those who running 25t side pully, how do you guys manage to wire the exhaust hanger without touching it ? i am running 24t and there's barely any space between it.
instead of putting the wire holder UNDER the top deck put it on the top, screw on the bottom. and pass the wire through the top of the pipe. you will have ample clearance this way. you might need to bend the wire, but i found this method to be the best. also did it with my 3. check out pic, it's the only one i have sorry.
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Old 02-23-2006, 07:58 AM   #3534
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You can also bend the wire a bit and it will not touch.
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Last edited by TomiRC; 02-23-2006 at 01:15 PM.
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Old 02-24-2006, 10:13 PM   #3535
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after tearing the car down from the winternats, I took some major abuse hits during my main, I found the top deck is cracked and the rear camber bar and shock stay holder is broke. I'm cutting a new upper deck with some extra material around the pipe mount hole, as that is the area it is broke.
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Old 02-25-2006, 06:41 AM   #3536
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tag
for those who running 25t side pully, how do you guys manage to wire the exhaust hanger without touching it ? i am running 24t and there's barely any space between it.
Change your exhaust hanger (the aluminium piece that holds the wire) for a Serpent 950-R one. It's slimmer and has two positions, allowing to decide how high or low will be your exhaust. I use it on my car and like it.
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Old 02-25-2006, 06:46 AM   #3537
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TomiRC
You can also bend the wire a bit and it will not touch.
Seeing your photo I see some things that needs to be revised:

1. Put the body posts that go over the bumber on the outer holes, body gets much better support, you're putting on the inner ones. Helps to avoid body distorting, specially at high speeds.

2. Change the wide bumber for the narrow one, the wide bumper can touch on the ground during heavy cornering and make weird things that can drive you mad.

BTW: You're using the 23T and the short belt? Better to use the 24T ones (at least you want to throw up to 6mm of diameter of your front wheels). Handling is much better. Use the 24T and about 2.5mm of tyre split between Fronts and Rears, helps too to have a little more shoch travel on the front.
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Old 02-25-2006, 10:48 AM   #3538
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Thanks for the recommendations Corse.
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Old 02-25-2006, 10:59 AM   #3539
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Corse-R
.......
2. Change the wide bumber for the narrow one, the wide bumper can touch on the ground during heavy cornering and make weird things that can drive you mad.
That's the good side of using short bumper..... more consistant driving and easy cornering.

However, there is also a good side for using wide bumper, if you hit the wall at angle, there is more chance you save the front suspension arm or save the steering upright and continue the race.

My friend keep using the wide bumper while I don't .... I watch his car often survive from impact ( thus he is able to continue racing ). In contrast sometimes I can't continue racing if I hit the wall and lost the steering upright ( pop off !!! ).
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Old 02-25-2006, 12:15 PM   #3540
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I think you can file the bottom of the sides of the wide bumper at an angle so when the car turns at extreme angle there is still recess space for the bumper..
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