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Old 02-20-2006, 08:27 PM   #3496
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcfoolz
4mm shock tower from mugen....T0508
James why don't you put a pic of the option parts you are making for your car especially the camber link mount
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Old 02-20-2006, 09:23 PM   #3497
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GrandeGixxer
The wheel hexes and shock tower are the first things I upgraded as well. However, after breaking the 3mm Skyline shock tower, I am now back to the stock one because its the only one I could find at the time I needed it. I am very happy with the car though. The only real other weakness is the clutch bearings. The 5x8mm is just too small to be durable.
I've heard of others killing their bearings as well but I still have not lost a single one. I lube them with teflon grease about every hour run time. I'll try to get a photo online of the stuff I use.

As for the shock tower, just go 4mm. 3mm is too fragile.

Rob
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Old 02-20-2006, 10:34 PM   #3498
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Corse-R
And sometimes with the car at 199mm width, handles like sh*t. Specially on tight tracks or tracks where you need a quick response and change of direction.

Ways to cope with traction roll are:

- Smaller diameter of tyres (shave the outer side of the tire with a rounded shape).
- Lower the ride height of the car (I've run the MTX3 up to 4mm high). That's why I missed the rear upstops.
- Stiffer hidraulics along stiffer springs.
- Camber on the front external wheel.
- Stiffer roll bars.

And... if the track allows it (most of the turns to the same side), put on the front external wheel something harder (i.e: Fr. 40 interior, 42 ext and 40 int/ext at the rear).
oops... sorry, you are right !! ..... my hometrack has lots of sweeper corners and not very technical. I guess 200mm front and 199mm rear setup only apply to my hometrack.

Quote:
Originally Posted by going4#1
I use the JP version (6 fin model) but it's the same thing. 6 fins is great on a mixed track with both long straights and lots of tight turns. Car is very responsive.

Tip
Small number of fins = speed
Large number of fins = torque
Are you sure about the number of fins ? .... never heard of that.

I guess the fewer fins is designed for JP stock engines while more fins for JP mod engines. I could be wrong ....
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Old 02-21-2006, 12:54 AM   #3499
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hi all. im planin on buying a MTX4.

whats the Cheapest Price anyone has seen them for on ONLINE shops?


send me links.....


THANKYOU
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Old 02-21-2006, 01:18 AM   #3500
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Why dont you try google?
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Old 02-21-2006, 04:25 AM   #3501
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Are you sure about the number of fins ? .... never heard of that.

I guess the fewer fins is designed for JP stock engines while more fins for JP mod engines. I could be wrong .... [/QUOTE]

With a smaller number of fins, the pipe is shorter so exhaust pulses are faster (i.e. the exhaust gas escapes faster so the piston will move with less resistance). With more fins, the pipe is longer and exhaust pulses are slower (i.e. the gas escapes slower). With more exhaust gas your engine+muffler is like a water pipe with partial blockage: you have less water coming out but it's coming out with more pressure.

The kind of engine doesn't matter. Take a look at the competative 1/8th buggy crowd. Very long manifolds for max torque. Concept is the same for on-road but due to lack of space, makers elongate the manifold in a different way but with the same result.
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Old 02-21-2006, 06:06 AM   #3502
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710baby....The guy that had the idea of putting the camber link with the body mount....excellent Idea. It will be done later today, and i will post a pic of that.......EXCELLENT IDEA GrandeGixxer!!!!
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Old 02-21-2006, 07:26 AM   #3503
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Quote:
Originally Posted by going4#1
I've heard of others killing their bearings as well but I still have not lost a single one. I lube them with teflon grease about every hour run time. I'll try to get a photo online of the stuff I use.
If you're killing thrust bearing is because you have too much play on your clutch bell, 0.5 - 0.75mm of total endplay is enough, too much and your bearing will suffer excessive punishment with the fatal and expensive consequences (12 euros the piece) that a blown thrust bearing will have for you.

I don't know if it's available now, but some time ago I got one tube from Ron Paris specially for the thrust bearings (Ronnie's Grease seemed to remember was called - their color is green).

Ever before a practice day or race I checked the thrust bearing, cleaned (a spray with brake cleaner) and applied the grease with toothpick or the edge of a screwdriver a little of it to the thrust bearing balls and never repeat: never had a blown thrust bearing. In fact, the one that goes on my MTX3 was the one that came in the box and he has about 50 or 60 litres of fuel over their shoulders. Got lucky probably, this is an extreme case, but many of my friends never needed to retire due to a blown bearing.
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Old 02-21-2006, 08:40 AM   #3504
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RC FOOLZ, does this mean I get to assist in the R&D of the product? I can test for no charge whatsoever!
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Old 02-21-2006, 08:50 AM   #3505
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Quote:
Originally Posted by going4#1
Are you sure about the number of fins ? .... never heard of that.

I guess the fewer fins is designed for JP stock engines while more fins for JP mod engines. I could be wrong ....
With a smaller number of fins, the pipe is shorter so exhaust pulses are faster (i.e. the exhaust gas escapes faster so the piston will move with less resistance). With more fins, the pipe is longer and exhaust pulses are slower (i.e. the gas escapes slower). With more exhaust gas your engine+muffler is like a water pipe with partial blockage: you have less water coming out but it's coming out with more pressure.

The kind of engine doesn't matter. Take a look at the competative 1/8th buggy crowd. Very long manifolds for max torque. Concept is the same for on-road but due to lack of space, makers elongate the manifold in a different way but with the same result.[/QUOTE]

I see.... you were talking about JP pipes.

I thought you were talking about Engine Heatsink 's Fins.

Sorry...... got it mixed up.
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Old 02-21-2006, 08:50 AM   #3506
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I don't charge for my items, I do it more for fun. Just send me an address via PM and I will send one as soon as I have it done.
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Old 02-21-2006, 02:25 PM   #3507
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Ok.....had time to play with the design. I came up with one, but the problem is that the body mounts are now narrow. I had to do this due to the camber arms. The only other way to do it is to put the body mounts up through the rear window, and this would cause all the down force to be removed from the wing and soften the rear of the car.
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Old 02-22-2006, 12:13 AM   #3508
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Default new parts from KAWAHARA




one pair of uper arm holder 3360 yen, 6300 got both.

chassis 6090 yen
Attached Thumbnails
Mugen MTX-4-8701b.jpg   Mugen MTX-4-870b.jpg   Mugen MTX-4-s-k-852.jpg  
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Old 02-22-2006, 12:24 AM   #3509
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Quote:
Originally Posted by FF25510



one pair of uper arm holder 3360 yen, 6300 got both.

chassis 6090 yen
How many mm thick ?
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Old 02-22-2006, 01:06 AM   #3510
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Hi guys,

do you primed your new ball bearings? Like cleaning it with brakecleaner and put in new bearing lube ?
I have seen, that some guys open one side of the bearing and let it open.
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