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Old 01-24-2006, 12:07 PM   #3166
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remember thats for an RRR one for an MTX would look different. I can tell you that the carbon inserts really stiffen the chassis a ton. but by still using the alumunium with it heat transfer from the engine is still as good. A good top brace is always important to keep the chassis from flexing as is a one piece motor mount which greatly improves spur to pinion life. For cars with .08 gears the top brace between the rear bulkheads and the top teck becomes super important. PS that chassis is thicker than a stocker to and made of 7075 which does not bend easily.
Thanks for the feedback.

I just figured I would ask to get an overall level of intrest. There seems to be much intrest in the one for the RRR as they go out as fast as they come in.
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Old 01-24-2006, 12:36 PM   #3167
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Motorman2
Question for you all. How much intrest would there be in a chassis of this type for the MTX4. The picture is an RRR chassis, but with enough intrest I am sure one could be made for the 4.




http://kfactoryracing.com/BIG/K%20Factory/K19/K1912.jpg

Looks pretty interesting to me.
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Old 01-24-2006, 01:13 PM   #3168
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yeah i remember those kind of chassis when they came out for 1/8th buggy first. they were thicker but because of the CF in the middle, the weight was greatly reduced without sacrificing strength. the CF actually made the chassis stiffer. it will be nice to have this for the MTX-4. the only drawback for me though is that my car would be so much underweight!
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Old 01-24-2006, 01:15 PM   #3169
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carkillaii
For you MUGEN drivers , Darin brought it home , Las Vegas Winter WindUp 06

PS he changed all 8 batteries during the race in this pitstop
the man is good
Congrats!
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Old 01-24-2006, 01:16 PM   #3170
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Motorman2
Question for you all. How much intrest would there be in a chassis of this type for the MTX4. The picture is an RRR chassis, but with enough intrest I am sure one could be made for the 4.




http://kfactoryracing.com/BIG/K%20Factory/K19/K1912.jpg
I would get one too if its under $100.
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Old 01-24-2006, 02:13 PM   #3171
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jo Gutierrez
it will be nice to have this for the MTX-4. the only drawback for me though is that my car would be so much underweight!
And... of course, you're removing weight in one of the worst places you can find to remove it (the lowest place on your car). Chassis looks cool, but I'll prefeer to stay stock by the moment.
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Old 01-24-2006, 02:51 PM   #3172
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Thanks for the info Scott. Are you running the one way or a diff? Have you changed the shock oils any?
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Old 01-24-2006, 03:12 PM   #3173
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Looks nice... I would like a Carbon battery door, but as Corse-R mentioned... wrong place to be loosing weight.

I think I'll wait for the Mugen 4mm Prospec chassis.

On a side note, anyone have their 2ng gear housing bearing move/spin in the housing?
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Old 01-24-2006, 03:12 PM   #3174
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actually becaust they are thicker their about the same weight as a stocker. I hate to mention prices but their under 80. Not a plug just to give you an idea. I'm just trying to get a feel to see if its worth asking the factory to make it.
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Old 01-24-2006, 03:19 PM   #3175
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Quote:
Originally Posted by carkillaii
For you MUGEN drivers , Darin brought it home , Las Vegas Winter WindUp 06

PS he changed all 8 batteries during the race in this pitstop
the man is good
Congrats Darin! And the rest of the team. Let's pack up another can of MTX4 whoop-ass and bring it down to FL for all the haters. See ya there.
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Old 01-24-2006, 03:20 PM   #3176
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But if its thicker, you loose ride height to keep your settings, or your suspension geom has to be altered.

I would much rather a 4mm chassis that has been milled out to lower the suspension to stock height, like the prospec chassis from the MTX3.

As for weight, I'm running 1750g after a 30min final. (body, wheels, transponder and no fuel as per IFMAR) Only options on the car are a hollow 2speed, Ti front shaft and half a Ti screw kit. So I dont want to go much lighter.
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Old 01-24-2006, 05:57 PM   #3177
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Quote:
Originally Posted by THE DOCTOR
Thanks for the info Scott. Are you running the one way or a diff? Have you changed the shock oils any?
I am running a one-way. I have never been to a track that I needed a diff. I have a locked front in my parts bag, but have never used that either. I have run heavier oil at Revelation Raceway (800 front, 700 rear). I ran 600 weight in the rear at Crystal Park and here in Las Vegas. In the front I have run both 500 and 600 at Crystal Park and here.
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Old 01-26-2006, 04:48 AM   #3178
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I have another stupid question, i have been trying to run my MTX-4 on rubber tyres as that is what my local club use. Apart from getting my front diff installed am I supposed to run 2mm off set wheels as I have been told that the MTX-3 had to use these. Any help would be appreciated.
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Old 01-26-2006, 06:03 AM   #3179
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I have changed the standard shock oil 800 to the 600 one and I also drive the one way.
But first I have tried to drive with the solid axle like my TM G4. After I changed it to the one way, it was much better. I have hate to drive with the one way with my G4 but I love it with the MTX-4. As soon we have better wheater here in Germany, I will try the frontdiff. Front: 50.000 oil Rear: 30.000 oil.
I know someone who drives very fast with this combination.
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Old 01-26-2006, 10:56 AM   #3180
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stevej62
I have another stupid question, i have been trying to run my MTX-4 on rubber tyres as that is what my local club use. Apart from getting my front diff installed am I supposed to run 2mm off set wheels as I have been told that the MTX-3 had to use these. Any help would be appreciated.
My biggest concern when choosing the wheel would be that it clears all the suspension, and that I can get the car to the width that I desire.
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