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Old 12-28-2005, 10:31 AM   #2866
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"When I tried to push the car on power it breaks loose. I think this is mostly due to low traction."

Your problem are here :

600 wt shock oil
no shims under camber link rear---middle hole inboard camber link

If you believe me, would you try softer oil like 400wt , 2 x 1mm shims on rear uprights , lowest hole on inboard camber link?
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Old 12-28-2005, 12:15 PM   #2867
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BAD MIKA....check to see if you have the shimming correct on your flywheel. If you have a large washer behind the collet, remove it, and if you don't have enough shimms on the thrust bearing, it will cause the clutch bell to move out to the non milled area. If you are wearing in the milled area, your engine mounts are too short and you might need to add a shimm under the engine block tabs. Good luck.
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Old 12-28-2005, 03:08 PM   #2868
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I tried the Skyline Front Universals on my car recently and so far so good. They look beefy and are holding up extremely well. I can't wait until the first race of the year.
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Old 12-28-2005, 05:20 PM   #2869
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SalvadoriRacing
here is a very good setting (with front diff)
I forgot to mention.........front bar at 60
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Old 12-28-2005, 06:25 PM   #2870
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Racing4Evo
I tried the Skyline Front Universals on my car recently and so far so good. They look beefy and are holding up extremely well. I can't wait until the first race of the year.

i would like to change the rears to cvd also (i just don't like dogbones). is skyline planning on having the rears also?
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Old 12-28-2005, 06:26 PM   #2871
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MAVICXXX
after all d while RRR dominates most of our local race,I manage to take over the place last weekend wit my 2nd race X4,1st race no finals due to raining but i qualified 3rd,the latest last sunday wit d same lyout,i did TQ and clock the fastest time in the qualifying and finals too.It was awesome wit my stock nsr5 performance.
Final A i lead from the first start till the 30mnts endtime which i m shock with what X4 could do coz it was like walking into a park with its smooth and ez handling,gear shifting and stability of he car impressed the spectators and that makes me wnat to go faster with their supports.Even the current RRR top driver cant really coop wit X4 and i won the race by 5laps infront..only 2 X4s in that A and the rest was RRR.My partner was at d 2nd placing till he was brought down by a backmarker which i dont really know the real situation and he ended up 8th placing..
We were 1st and 3rd starting pole,he did the 1st TQ timing foolowed by me with 8secs different.2nd position was d top RRR driver 5secs behind.
Cant wait for another club race this coming 8th.

yup! show them what's up!

mugen rules!!!
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Old 12-28-2005, 06:27 PM   #2872
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcfoolz
Does anybody know what belt from another car fits the MTX4? I happened to have picked up a belt to check for fit, I thought it was for the x4, but it fits much better, no slack. Somebody said it might be from the RRR.
yes it is,384mm and 387mm for 23t and 24t.
diferent is d RRR drive train,so they play wit d rear dif pulley and fron mid pulley.
But i prefer rubber belt coz less dirt stickin on d pulley,and smoother too..
currently i m running all around rubber,and you should try the 25t too,works well in d qlfying 5 or 10mnts,depending what do you want the car to do..
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Old 12-28-2005, 06:30 PM   #2873
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jo Gutierrez
yup! show them what's up!

mugen rules!!!
yeah..driven d X3,710 and RRevo but not RRR before,current 710 not the threat,X3 bit struggling with RRR,but now wit X4 it is much more easier and COOL..hope no engine problems or mechanical fail..

MUGEN RULES!!!
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Old 12-29-2005, 06:43 AM   #2874
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcfoolz
BAD MIKA....check to see if you have the shimming correct on your flywheel. If you have a large washer behind the collet, remove it, and if you don't have enough shimms on the thrust bearing, it will cause the clutch bell to move out to the non milled area. If you are wearing in the milled area, your engine mounts are too short and you might need to add a shimm under the engine block tabs. Good luck.
Thanks Rcfoolz...

It was wearing under the milled area. Anyway i have taken the short cut root... i have grind down the affected area for more recess...

Did not want to shim up the engine mount... as it will increase the car CG ! Hee hee !
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Old 12-30-2005, 05:11 PM   #2875
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Anyone ever tried this body ??



Could it hold the pace ?

Thanks
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Old 12-30-2005, 06:53 PM   #2876
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my rear shock tower crack,so i get another pieces and just glue it double,but after another outing,found the handling specially d rear is totally diferent,tend to throw little bit,mybe harder rear shock tower cant absorb shocks like stock 1pc. But what can i do?to avoid cracked again,gota make use to more stiffen 1,atleast can stand back impact and rolling crash.

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Old 12-30-2005, 07:23 PM   #2877
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MAVICXXX
my rear shock tower crack,so i get another pieces and just glue it double,but after another outing,found the handling specially d rear is totally diferent,tend to throw little bit,mybe harder rear shock tower cant absorb shocks like stock 1pc. But what can i do?to avoid cracked again,gota make use to more stiffen 1,atleast can stand back impact and rolling crash.

Maybe u can try the 3mm tower made by skyline or shooter, or the 4mm made by gonad (u can try pm him) or by Kawahara. Good luck.
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Old 12-30-2005, 08:43 PM   #2878
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I haven't seen anyone use that body. Mostly Dodge Stratus and Mazda 6, but it will look nice on the car anyway!!
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Old 12-30-2005, 09:45 PM   #2879
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I'll be testing the one BMI is going to be cutting in less than a week. It will address the mounting of different bodies so that the mounts won't come up so close to the wing on the Mazda 6.
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Old 12-31-2005, 01:16 AM   #2880
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MAVICXXX
my rear shock tower crack,so i get another pieces and just glue it double,but after another outing,found the handling specially d rear is totally diferent,tend to throw little bit,mybe harder rear shock tower cant absorb shocks like stock 1pc. But what can i do?to avoid cracked again,gota make use to more stiffen 1,atleast can stand back impact and rolling crash.

I double mine too..... hehehe.... 5mm thick now . I also use countersunk screws 3 x 16mm to bolt the tower into bulkhead even stronger

No problem with handling.
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