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Old 12-18-2005, 08:29 PM   #2731
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Please excuse my poor knowledge, especially I never had a mtx3 >_<, maybe I was trying to say the screws (the bottom ones) maybe a little short (and installed with the shims makes them even shorter) to have a firm grip on the mount so it may let the engine shift? I maybe wrong but just a little thought.
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Old 12-18-2005, 08:36 PM   #2732
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I have had my motor shift in a hard wreck, but it still wasnt enough to strip a gear. The screws are short, but if they were any longer or if you dont use washers on the tp screws, they wouldnt engage the chassis at all. They will feel tight, but they are only hitting the top motor mount screws. That could be the problem.
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Old 12-18-2005, 10:07 PM   #2733
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The motor mounts and screws are the same as the MTX3.

On another note, I have made a simple and obvious modification to my side belt tensioner. I can't speak for anyone else, but I change engines out quite often. I love to try new ones and at any race want to have at least two that are ready to go. That is why I have 3 complete clutch setups. Once I get the clutch adjusted to my liking I can just leave it on and know that if I have to make an engine change, it is already set the way I want it. Anyway we all know that changing the engine can be a bit tedious because we have to remove the side belt and tensioner. I have flipped the tensioner around the other way. There is a picture to show this. You have to make a small notch in the radio tray in order for it to clear but this is a minore little grind. I also have changed the screws to button head because the backside of the tensioner is not countersunk. Either way, now I don't have to remove the tensioner to remove the engine. The other picture is supposed to show the minor notch in the radio tray. It is a bit blurry but I think it is visible.
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Mugen MTX-4-tensioner-001.jpg   Mugen MTX-4-tensioner-005.jpg  
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Old 12-18-2005, 10:26 PM   #2734
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GrandeGixxer
I have had my motor shift in a hard wreck, but it still wasnt enough to strip a gear. The screws are short, but if they were any longer or if you dont use washers on the tp screws, they wouldnt engage the chassis at all. They will feel tight, but they are only hitting the top motor mount screws. That could be the problem.
Use longer screws at bottom and shorter at the top. I use 3x10mm and 3x12mm for the bottom.

3racing make engine mounting base with 4mm screws ( standard screws 3mm )



Scott Fisher : Good idea ..... so you don't have to take out the belt tensioner on every engine removal, am I right ?
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Old 12-18-2005, 11:28 PM   #2735
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I just finished checking the key areas, that were mentioned, on the gears striping issue and eveything is OK. Your right about the carb and the disk-brake; there's hardly any room. So I'm going to try and angle the carb abit more just to make sure. I striped 2nd gear about 2 minutes into a race when I ran the car for the very first time; but, I think it was just the engine mounts backing out abit because I checked and I was able to give about 2 or 3 of them a good 1/4 or .25 turn. Other than that, the car is great. I can't wait to really start running it.
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Old 12-18-2005, 11:51 PM   #2736
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asw7576
Use longer screws at bottom and shorter at the top. I use 3x10mm and 3x12mm for the bottom.

3racing make engine mounting base with 4mm screws ( standard screws 3mm )



Scott Fisher : Good idea ..... so you don't have to take out the belt tensioner on every engine removal, am I right ?

Yes. With the tensioner reversed you do not have to remove it to take out the engine. You still have to take off the side belt, but not the tensioner itself.
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Old 12-19-2005, 12:35 AM   #2737
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Hi Scott, did those rear universals come out yet? cuz I cant seem to find them anywhere, the MS web has no trace on it.
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Old 12-19-2005, 01:02 AM   #2738
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ogreasurada
Hi Scott, did those rear universals come out yet? cuz I cant seem to find them anywhere, the MS web has no trace on it.
Yes, they came out. I should have mine either Monday or Tuesday.
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Old 12-19-2005, 01:07 AM   #2739
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott Fisher
Yes, they came out. I should have mine either Monday or Tuesday.
O.o, where did you get them from?
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Old 12-19-2005, 01:30 AM   #2740
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Mugen Seiki USA (mugen racing ltd)
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Old 12-19-2005, 08:04 AM   #2741
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I had a problem stripping second gears(.8) in my mtx-3. The reason was 2nd gear was shifting too hard(late). Also the gear split too big can cause this. Although I am sure this is not the case since since you are using stock gears.
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Old 12-19-2005, 09:03 AM   #2742
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Old 12-19-2005, 10:18 AM   #2743
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grinder
I had a problem stripping second gears(.8) in my mtx-3. The reason was 2nd gear was shifting too hard(late). Also the gear split too big can cause this. Although I am sure this is not the case since since you are using stock gears.
One way to smooth out the shifting is by turning the set screw in the 2 speed down. This will increase the space between the two 2speed shoes. By doing that when the car is shifting into 2nd, the shoes have less distance to travel and they don't hit as hard. This smooths out the shifting. Be advised when doing this to make sure you turn the screws in evenly and also if you spread the shoes too much they will drag on the speed housing.
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Old 12-19-2005, 04:07 PM   #2744
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dogbone move rear mounts to front of shock tower and then shave the thickness works great
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Old 12-19-2005, 05:07 PM   #2745
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott Fisher
One way to smooth out the shifting is by turning the set screw in the 2 speed down. This will increase the space between the two 2speed shoes. By doing that when the car is shifting into 2nd, the shoes have less distance to travel and they don't hit as hard. This smooths out the shifting. Be advised when doing this to make sure you turn the screws in evenly and also if you spread the shoes too much they will drag on the speed housing.
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