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Old 12-07-2005, 06:24 AM   #2476
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Default Diet Plan !

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jo Gutierrez
chassis flex?

the car feels pretty good to me so i don't know if there is flex or not. i don't see it as a problem of the mtx-4 at all. the car handles really good. or maybe it's because i'm not in the caliber of a really good worlds driver to feel the flex

but if mugen was to come out with a thicker chassis that is milled out to have the components as low as stock (just like the mtx-3 prospec), i will definitely get it. it will not only stiffen the car but will also add weight to the lowest point of the car. i think i'm gonna need to add weight to be legal after i'm done with my diet program and it would be perfect to have the additional weight down the bottom - which is the chassis
Hi Joe, Mugener's

Hope you can share how you did the 'diet' program to lighten your MTX4 !

Mine is stock except with titanium pillow balls and it's hovering around 1760 grams. Now how do i shave 60 grams off ! Are you guys using a 'diet' battery as well to get it underweight ?

Thanks in advance !
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Old 12-07-2005, 06:56 AM   #2477
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This was part of my "diet program" :use all titanium screws. Lightweight pully adapters, titanium 2speed and center shaft, lighter servo's, delrin upright screws instead of the aluminum ones. Lightweight motor mounts, vented disk brake, titanium hinge pins. Also, there was some other things you could do, cross drill the one-way, remove the handle, use a 9 fin cooling head instead of an 11 on some engines, ect, ect. If you do all this, you should be under-weight.
Using the correct servo for throttle can save you 10-15 grams.
Full titanium screws saved me 16gr.
Lightweight pully adapters........7g
Delrin upright screws...............3g
2 speed shaft.........................8g
center shaft...........................6g
vented disc brake....................1g, but gave better braking
Titanium hinge pins..................6g
lightweight motor mounts..........2g
titanium motor mount screws.....2g

I shaved 62grams off the car using this stuff.
Also, the body you use saves weight.
Stratus 3.1 108g
Caddy VTS 110g
Mazda 6 112g
Alpha 112g

Tire diameter is something to look at too. a new set is 90g and a set trued to average 59mm is 80g.....(fast tires)
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Old 12-07-2005, 07:22 AM   #2478
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcfoolz
This was part of my "diet program" :use all titanium screws. Lightweight pully adapters, titanium 2speed and center shaft, lighter servo's, delrin upright screws instead of the aluminum ones. Lightweight motor mounts, vented disk brake, titanium hinge pins. Also, there was some other things you could do, cross drill the one-way, remove the handle, use a 9 fin cooling head instead of an 11 on some engines, ect, ect. If you do all this, you should be under-weight.
Using the correct servo for throttle can save you 10-15 grams.
Full titanium screws saved me 16gr.
Lightweight pully adapters........7g
Delrin upright screws...............3g
2 speed shaft.........................8g
center shaft...........................6g
vented disc brake....................1g, but gave better braking
Titanium hinge pins..................6g
lightweight motor mounts..........2g
titanium motor mount screws.....2g

I shaved 62grams off the car using this stuff.
Also, the body you use saves weight.
Stratus 3.1 108g
Caddy VTS 110g
Mazda 6 112g
Alpha 112g

Tire diameter is something to look at too. a new set is 90g and a set trued to average 59mm is 80g.....(fast tires)
Are you still legal for racing?
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Old 12-07-2005, 08:02 AM   #2479
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No, they are not legal for ROAR/IFMAR racing and would have to add back some weight. For club racing, what they are doing would be fine. But, these guys kill me with this "I have to lighten my already lightweight car" thing. However, these guys sure are making the aftermarket parts company very, very wealthy and those companies are not complaining one bit.
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Old 12-07-2005, 08:17 AM   #2480
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However, by lightening the car, you have the privilages/advantage to add weight to the center/bottom part of the chassis to help lowering the overall CG to improve stability.
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Old 12-07-2005, 08:30 AM   #2481
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bad Mika
Hi Joe, Mugener's

Hope you can share how you did the 'diet' program to lighten your MTX4 !

Mine is stock except with titanium pillow balls and it's hovering around 1760 grams. Now how do i shave 60 grams off ! Are you guys using a 'diet' battery as well to get it underweight ?

Thanks in advance !
i posted my "diet" program a page back. here's the link:
http://www.rctech.net/forum/showpost...postcount=2432

anyways, i'm not completely done yet but i'm assuming it will be really close to legal weight, if not under . i don't want to go overkill and go underweight. as soon as i'm done, i will post the results. i know my car will be one sexy mugen after she's done with her weight program
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Old 12-07-2005, 11:03 AM   #2482
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Has anyone compared the quality and finish of the alum. parts between Monotuning and Shooters?
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Old 12-07-2005, 11:11 AM   #2483
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JLock
No, they are not legal for ROAR/IFMAR racing and would have to add back some weight. For club racing, what they are doing would be fine. But, these guys kill me with this "I have to lighten my already lightweight car" thing. However, these guys sure are making the aftermarket parts company very, very wealthy and those companies are not complaining one bit.

JLock:

There is an advantage in removing rotating weight and adding it as static weight. There also is a definite advantage in removing weight up high and adding down low. Of course there is a point of diminishing return, but the improvments are there.

We all have limited driving skills, but there is not reason to not make the car as good as we can make it.
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Old 12-07-2005, 11:36 AM   #2484
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Scott,

I understand the concepts behind having the lightest weight, yet legal, car. I learned a lot about that from Ralph Burch years ago. However, most of us aren't as accomplished and expert enough with the driving skills to notice much difference in 20 to 40 grams of weight differential in our cars. Here in Dallas, we have a group of nitro racers that are so concentrated on lightening their cars as much as possible, they forget to work on the driving skills. At most club races and bigger races here, I normally finish in front of many of them with my 1785g MTX-3 because I have concentrated more on driving ability and set-up. Now that I am mastering my own ability to drive my car, if shaving another 40g helps, that is cool. But, my approach is get a feel of the car and learn how to drive it well against the competition first, then if I can make an improvement here or there to benefit me on the track, I will make the "necessary" changes. Oh, some of these guys with the ultra-light cars, I beat them with my 1900g+ R40 (and listen to them about it) , so, where was their big 200+ weight advantage?
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Old 12-07-2005, 11:39 AM   #2485
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It looked and still looks to me like you are putting people down for trying to improve their car. I totally agree that driving skill will still make the biggest difference. I also agree that some people spend too much time on their car and not enough time driving. I don't think there is anything wrong with trying to improve your car as well as your driving.
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Old 12-07-2005, 11:40 AM   #2486
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Scott,

I am not saying there is anything wrong with what many of you are doing, I just like to pick at how much many of you concentrate solely on lightening the car before you even drive it or race it. It is all in fun and don't take it so serious. If only I could start me an aftermarket parts company, I wouldn't have to work my 8 to 5 job anymore because you guys would make me rich.
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Old 12-07-2005, 11:50 AM   #2487
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Man, can't wait to get my MTX-4. I will compare the weights between that and my MTX-3 (will move to backup the 4) with like engine, body, and radio gear. I now know that I will be getting with someone for the 4mm rear shock tower (since there is an issue with that breaking very easily) but will run it bone stock for a while to get a feel of it. My MTX-3 is basically bone stock and if that is any indication, my soon to be acquired MTX-4 would probably stay stock, outside of the thicker shock towers, as well.
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Old 12-07-2005, 11:57 AM   #2488
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The shock tower made by "gonad" here on rctech is really good. It is 4mm thick, but recessed where it mounts to keep the shock angle unchanged. There is a thread in the for sale section about 3-4 pages back. I believe that www.teamtaylorracing.net has JUST gotten these in for resale as well. I doubt they would even show up on his website yet, so send him an emal if you don't find it.
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Old 12-07-2005, 11:59 AM   #2489
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ogreasurada
However, by lightening the car, you have the privilages/advantage to add weight to the center/bottom part of the chassis to help lowering the overall CG to improve stability.
Yes. I do this with my cars. I have 2 chassis for each. One stock, and the other I mill slots on each side of the battery (size and depth vary depending on how much weight I need to add, then I melt the lead, pour it in the slots, let it harden, remove the lead, then glue the lead under preassure. Finally I mill the excess lead so it is perfectly flush with the top of the chassis. This allows me to lighten my rotating mass and put lightweight components on the top of the car, while still above the ROAR minimum weight requirements. I notice that this does make a noticeable difference. I have just made my first MRX4 chassis like this. Can't wait to try it.
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Old 12-07-2005, 12:38 PM   #2490
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scott Fisher
It looked and still looks to me like you are putting people down for trying to improve their car. I totally agree that driving skill will still make the biggest difference. I also agree that some people spend too much time on their car and not enough time driving. I don't think there is anything wrong with trying to improve your car as well as your driving.
I think everyone should spend more time drinking Heineken!
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