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Old 11-24-2005, 05:19 PM   #2311
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That is the only aluminum hop-up I will add. So far, I havn't broke them and until then, I won't buy the aluminum one.

I have 5 chassis that are ready. I hand cut the holes around the motor mounts and they are not perfect, but will work fine. The tooling I need to do this won't be here till mid December, so the ones I did are all I am going to have for now.
Because the positioning pin for the front bulkheads was a personal concern, I left the front of the chassis solid for extra stengh for the front, this added about 10 grams of weight, but was well worth the added weight. Still have a savings of about 40 grams. I hadn't tested it with a front diff in, but I believe the front diff would hit the chassis. Somebody might be able to tell me if when using the front diff, does it sit down in the hole that is in the chassis?

If anybody would like one of these first 5, a coupld have the solid and a couple have the front cut out. When using this carbon chassis, there is hardly any flex from front to rear, it is very SOLID, but there is just as much side flex.

I don't know about selling on this thread, it is in the wrong area, but If you would like one of these first ones, I'm selling them at $55.00 shipped just to cover the cost to produce them. When the other tooling comes in, the price will be around $80.

This will be posted in the for sale section.
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Old 11-24-2005, 05:28 PM   #2312
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When putting on the flywheel for the centax clutch, are you supposed to use the cone from the kit or the one that comes with the engine will work fine? Cuz the one on my engine is shorter than the one from the kit.
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Old 11-24-2005, 05:37 PM   #2313
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ogreasurada
When putting on the flywheel for the centax clutch, are you supposed to use the cone from the kit or the one that comes with the engine will work fine? Cuz the one on my engine is shorter than the one from the kit.
as long as the flywheel does not hit the block and the flywheel nut does not bottom out before it is all the way tightened either one should be fine. I'd use the longer one myself.
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Old 11-24-2005, 06:21 PM   #2314
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sparksy
Try this DC..
Thanks Toby but that looks like the 16-19 overdrive chart. I was after the std 19/24 chart.

Anyway I've done the maths and found that it was 1:1 in std form.

thanks

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Old 11-24-2005, 06:38 PM   #2315
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chookgb
Pictures below of 1st stage of hop ups
to me,this is d most important.Efficient and consistently holding d center roll and upper arm strength. Even lastime my RR evo got this mounted.Nicely done,is that trial or its in d market already?any option for colours?
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Old 11-24-2005, 08:49 PM   #2316
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chookgb : Nice hop up options especially rear radio plate tower & rear motor brace. Who made them ?

Do they made alluminium front and rear shock tower's bulkhead holder ?TO148A, TO148B, TO149C
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Old 11-24-2005, 08:52 PM   #2317
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ogreasurada
When putting on the flywheel for the centax clutch, are you supposed to use the cone from the kit or the one that comes with the engine will work fine? Cuz the one on my engine is shorter than the one from the kit.
don't mix the clutch parts from mtx 3 tor 4, some parts are differents : clutch end bell and flywheel i think. So use from the kit for less headache.
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Old 11-24-2005, 10:20 PM   #2318
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The MTX3 and 4 have the same clutch parts with the following exceptions. The clutchbell and bearings are different and the spring cup are different. Everything else is the same.
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Old 11-24-2005, 11:04 PM   #2319
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Those are our options The aluminum parts reduce flex and add strength, the plastic parts will deform after sometimes of usage. We have weighted the options we have so far, they are only about 20grams heavier in total of the 7 items we have compare to the plastic parts.

We will have a diet program available(its a suggestion what you can do or you can purchase from us) It will probably reduce around 60-80grams.

Thanks
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Old 11-25-2005, 03:05 AM   #2320
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Quote:
Originally Posted by monotuning
Those are our options The aluminum parts reduce flex and add strength, the plastic parts will deform after sometimes of usage. We have weighted the options we have so far, they are only about 20grams heavier in total of the 7 items we have compare to the plastic parts.

We will have a diet program available(its a suggestion what you can do or you can purchase from us) It will probably reduce around 60-80grams.

Thanks
I checked your website, I think you are the first to make alluminium parts for MTX4

I really like the rear radio plate tower and rear motor brace.

Do you make TO148A, TO148B, TO149C ? They are upper bulkheads that holds shock tower F&R .

Btw, what quality ? T6065 alluminium ?
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Old 11-25-2005, 03:57 AM   #2321
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Default stage 2 hop ups

carbon fibre hop ups pic 1
Attached Thumbnails
Mugen MTX-4-mtx-4-hop-ups-9.jpg  
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Old 11-25-2005, 03:58 AM   #2322
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Default stage 2 hop ups

pic2
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Old 11-25-2005, 03:59 AM   #2323
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Default stage 2 hop ups

pic 3
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Old 11-25-2005, 10:47 AM   #2324
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Very nice chookgb Cool stuffs !!
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Old 11-25-2005, 11:30 AM   #2325
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Chookgb:

I see you mounted your rear body posts backwards. Move your rear suspension through its motion of travel and make certain your camber links don't hit the body posts. Remember there will be some movement and flex. At very least you will probably want to use a dremel to thin the body post area or the suspension will hit it during use on the track.

Why did you mount them backwards?
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