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Old 11-17-2005, 08:54 AM   #2146
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If you bought 2 of the kits for the MTX-3 you would be safe. There are more screws on the -4. Make sure to size them up against the instruction book so you are using the same ones. RCScrewz makes a nice kit.
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Old 11-17-2005, 09:39 AM   #2147
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Quote:
Originally Posted by isuzuguy
my mtx-4 is on its way,i want to add titaniums screws while building ,but i don't have the sizes needed can someone help so i can order my screws ?
I don't know wheter do you agree with my style........ I'm using slightly longer screws for extra strength & durability. Eg. the manual stated 3x8mm screws, I replace them with 3x10mm or 3x12mm as long as they are fit. I use toothpick to measure depth
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Old 11-17-2005, 10:20 AM   #2148
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Default Team Orion WASP New Engine

What do you think Team Orion WASP engines ?? It's revolution of RC engines said Team Orion.

Quote from Team Orion Website :

""Developed in Switzerland and manufactured in Japan, this is a state-of-the-art engine for serious racing applications. Several innovations are patent pending.


Technical features:

- Integrated Compressor Crankshaft
- Typhoon Mixture Distribution
- Internal Mixture Centrifugal Power Pump
- No back plate back effect resonance
- Automatic Cylinder Conicity Adjustment
- Crankcase Side Intake Tunnel
- Lower fuel consumption by optimisation of the mixture management
- Dynamic Crankshaft Balancing
- Large heatsink for lower operating temperature
- Ultra precise high quality ball bearings
- Special carburetor with very fine tuning capability
- Turbo plug ""








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Old 11-17-2005, 10:30 AM   #2149
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Is it JP killer ?
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Old 11-17-2005, 10:30 AM   #2150
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looks kinda cheap...
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Old 11-17-2005, 10:31 AM   #2151
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Give it a try and let us know. In the past Orion was using Picco based engines which I never trusted.

One thing is for sure they are not going to advertise that the engine is a turd. Can you see this!



The new XXX brand racing engine.

This engine guarantees you will always be home at an early hour because it is at best a D main engine.

Conrod will never fail because the crank will break much faster.
Poor fuel mileage due to the constant leaking carburetor.
Engine bearings usually spin... at least until they rust out.
Engine weighs 50% more than our rivals that way when it blows up you can use it as a paperweight.

Est Street price for the XXX is only $289.99
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Old 11-17-2005, 10:40 AM   #2152
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yeah, time will tell i guess. the video of it looks pretty cool though. and it's a very different design compared to what's in the market right now. but you know, we always see new products "as seen on tv" that looks very promising but then again, some of them work and some are just junk.
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Old 11-17-2005, 10:42 AM   #2153
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would this be better in the Engine forums? This is after all the MTX4 thread, and that's what I want to read about.

Anyone running a diff in the MTX4? I had some issues getting it to fit right, or spin freely.
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Old 11-17-2005, 10:52 AM   #2154
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since we have a smaller track here in arizona, we use diffs for both front and rear. when using the "B" ackerman, you will need to shave off some material off the ball ends that are rubbing the diff in the front. also, when assembling the diff in the front, you do not have to glue the plastic ring for the pulley as you would when building the one-way. i made this mistake and was wondering why the car had so much drag. but after i took the plastic ring off the pulley, the car "rolls" again.
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Old 11-17-2005, 11:18 AM   #2155
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I was putting the diff in last night for this weekend and pretty much called it a night due to frustration. I was having the same issues. I think I will switch to the A block so I dont have to cut the rod ends. Hopefully I will be able to pry the ring off the pulley since I had it on the 1 way already. It was not as easy as it should have been to change. Not only do you have to take the bulkhead caps off, but the upper A-arm mounts as well as the 3 front screws on the radio plate. I think I could do it faster on the -3.
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Old 11-17-2005, 11:28 AM   #2156
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it's a very small shaving needed and you can use a xacto knife. the rod ends are quick release (hex) which helps. the "b" has more turn in capability. once you have the shaving of the ends done, at least you can switch from "a" to "b" anytime you want.

the diff changing in the front wasn't as easy as i expected also. i thought it was going to be easier than the 3 but it came out to be pretty the same. but changing/maintaning wheel bearings and dogbones/universals is now easier, thanks to the 2 screws that takes the upper arm off.
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Old 11-17-2005, 11:32 AM   #2157
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Very true. I am going to screw with it some more tonight after I get home from work. I am pretty much redoing the whole car. Putting a different motor and pipe in and fixing the rear end that I broke at the Fusion race. So, I may as well do it right I guess.
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Old 11-17-2005, 12:02 PM   #2158
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yeah, because going from "a" to "b" was awesome, at least at the track i'm racing at. i haven't tried the "c" yet because it had always been way too much turn in for me when i was using it with my mtx-3.

oh, and i love the way the mtx-4's steering is setup to where you can change the ackerman (i.e. from "a" to "b") very easily because of the plastic inserts. it was a pain with the mtx-3 because you have to change the whole steering arm marked a, b, or c.
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Old 11-17-2005, 12:06 PM   #2159
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Yeah, the rear is a better setup too. Ever try getting the front block out without removing the rear bulkheads?
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Old 11-17-2005, 01:23 PM   #2160
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no i haven't really messed with the rear yet. i set the bottom to mid and the diff at 10k and it's working for me perfectly right now. but from putting it together, it seems like the rear is much easier than the mtx-3.
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