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Old 11-13-2005, 10:47 PM   #2026
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Originally Posted by rcabj
hi..anyone havin problem the tires touching either the front/rear knuckle...(when using 0 offset tires) thanks...
After discussing this with sow, I have fitted various rims to my MTX4.

Ellegi white spoke and yellow serpent rims clear front and back.
Fast dish rims clear front but rub badly on the rear.
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Old 11-13-2005, 10:57 PM   #2027
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Originally Posted by rcfoolz
has anybody had a problem with the clutch bell hitting the 2speed hub? I've had this happen 2 times and my 2 speed is showing signs of "bands" being rubbed on the edge. I'm thinkinb about machining a few mills off the 2 speed hub where it is rubbing
Not on mine. I had different problems. It was the sway bar touching the 2-speed hub. I had to lengthen the sway bar adjustable rods to fix it.
Are you using different engine mount? I also had a problem with the clutch bell hitting the chassi using 1-piece engine mount (can't remember who made it) for mtx3. Had to go back to stock.
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Old 11-13-2005, 11:04 PM   #2028
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Originally Posted by asw7576
What tires brand do you use rcabj ?
you may also wanna try skyline/monotuning tires. no problems fitting the 4 and one of the best foams in the market.
here's the link:
Skyline Racing

you could buy it here also:
Winner's Circle (Home Page)
ask for Lee Muse
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Old 11-13-2005, 11:22 PM   #2029
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcfoolz
has anybody had a problem with the clutch bell hitting the 2speed hub? I've had this happen 2 times and my 2 speed is showing signs of "bands" being rubbed on the edge. I'm thinkinb about machining a few mills off the 2 speed hub where it is rubbing
yeah I had this problem as well but by the time that I realised it had happened it had worn enought off so that it didn't rub, what I think caused it was the engine wasnt parallel with the 2speed shaft

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Old 11-13-2005, 11:29 PM   #2030
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Originally Posted by cars.cars.cars
Hello everyone

Im looking at both the serpent 710 and the MTX-4. Im just wondering what has the best parts availability, plenty of hop-ups and is very durable. Just looking for some opinions.

Thank You in advance.
stuff the serpent go with the Mugen MTX-4 much much easier to setup and it is the newest car at the moment and the serpent has a ball diff. hop ups will be available soon enough (not that you will need them just yet the standard MTX-4 is beating fully hopped up MTX-3s 710s and RRRs at my club and am sure its doing the same at other clubs.

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Old 11-13-2005, 11:39 PM   #2031
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Originally Posted by Chris West
and the serpent has a ball diff.
Just being curious, what are the pros and cons between ball diff and bevel gear diff on gas cars? thx.
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Old 11-13-2005, 11:44 PM   #2032
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Originally Posted by ogreasurada
Just being curious, what are the pros and cons between ball diff and bevel gear diff on gas cars? thx.
the gear diff will stay at what you set it at eg #10000 but the ball diff doesnt (well in my experience's) they dont stay in the same setting for that long guys that run serpents at my club end up setting their diffs before each race. its ok in electric cars as the power bands are alot smoother but in a gas car they don't seem to handle it that well as an electric car.
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Old 11-13-2005, 11:58 PM   #2033
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris West
the gear diff will stay at what you set it at eg #10000 but the ball diff doesnt (well in my experience's) they dont stay in the same setting for that long guys that run serpents at my club end up setting their diffs before each race. its ok in electric cars as the power bands are alot smoother but in a gas car they don't seem to handle it that well as an electric car.
we had that same experience. Also, ball diff are just hard to maintain especially in dirty track like what we have. I just don't see myself going back to rebuilding ball diffs every week ever again
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Old 11-14-2005, 12:07 AM   #2034
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Originally Posted by rcracerdude
Not on mine. I had different problems. It was the sway bar touching the 2-speed hub. I had to lengthen the sway bar adjustable rods to fix it.
Are you using different engine mount? I also had a problem with the clutch bell hitting the chassi using 1-piece engine mount (can't remember who made it) for mtx3. Had to go back to stock.
my one was doing both i can see the mark on the sway bar and the clutch bell but mine wasnt touching the chassis.
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Old 11-14-2005, 12:07 AM   #2035
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Thanks so much for the point-outs.
Another question: when filling in the diff lube, how do you tell what % of the diff is filled up to? Is it just experience of the eyes or is there any trick? thx.
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Old 11-14-2005, 12:09 AM   #2036
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Originally Posted by ogreasurada
Thanks so much for the point-outs.
Another question: when filling in the diff lube, how do you tell what % of the diff is filled up to? Is it just experience of the eyes or is there any trick? thx.
just fill till the oil settles and is just above the 2 shafts
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Old 11-14-2005, 12:13 AM   #2037
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Just to the people who have an MTX-4 look out for the 3 things that have been mentioned it will save you a thrust bearing as well as not putting marks an this beutiful car
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Old 11-14-2005, 12:18 AM   #2038
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Maybe car manufacturers want us to keep buying oil diff ? That why most rc manufacturers don't make ball diff.

Hey, I have good idea..... why not make ball diff as optional equipment ?

I can't tell why gear diff is better than ball diff except durability and cheap reasons.
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Old 11-14-2005, 12:21 AM   #2039
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Its more reliable, and because silicon is such a crap lubricant use a thinish grease it will make the internal gears last longer
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Old 11-14-2005, 12:31 AM   #2040
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris West
Its more reliable, and because silicon is such a crap lubricant use a thinish grease it will make the internal gears last longer
That what I did, I mixed the silicone oil with tamiya ceramic grease ( 1 tea spoon size ). The gears still okay even after 8 gallons of fuels.

Btw, is it normal the oil diff become so black ? Is it time to refresh the oil diff ?
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