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Old 11-07-2005, 06:00 AM   #1876
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Default 2nd race with the 4

Ran the second race yesterday with the 4. 1st race was at Kissimmee and second race was at Superior. 2 different types of tracks. At superior, it was a tight track, not much of a straight, but alot of turns. The was again AWSOME. Made some setup changes this time. Moved the rear shock up one hole and put 10000 diff oil in, down from the 30000 at Kissimmee. Also removed the shimms on top of the rear uprights. This settled the rear down and it stuck! On the front, ran 1mm of shim on the upper arm and went with Dark Blue springs. and ran 40'shore tires. The car was awsome. I took the Maxx Power engine out and put in an MT12. In the first qualifier, I flamed out, and in the second I blew a plug. (well, at 320deg, it melted) so, in the B main, it started 2nd to last. Not the cars fault, just the driver for not tuning his engine . It easily took the B and bumped to the A. I didn't have time to change the tires, but thought I had enough to run the A. Started last in the A and was in 2nd after the first lap. About 3 min in, the side belt blew off the car after a smack into the boards, but seriously, it was like a Hockey game out there with all the hits going on. I drove the car for a few laps and was all the way back in last before I pitted and got the belt back on. Needless to say, the rear tires took some abuse, so it was DRIFTING time!
I'm working on a new piece of carbon fiber today to tighten the belt just a bit more, so I shouldn't have this problem again. Nothing broke on the car and even drifting around, it was all over the leader. Still finnished 5th.

If anybody is thinking about getting the car but don't want to spend the money, DON'T, it makes it easier for us that have one to pass you
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Old 11-07-2005, 10:55 AM   #1877
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It is possible to see the performances, this type of CONICAL

5 fins manifold - short type (best solution on long straights)

6 fins manifold - medium type (suggested to have more push exiting curves and on the straight)

7 fins manifold - long type (more power exiting curves)

Choose your weapon
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Old 11-07-2005, 06:42 PM   #1878
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcracerdude
ran the car last friday night, very impressed how it handled. I made some changes to make it handle better in our local track. Changed the steering insert from A to B and gray springs. I noticed the tire wear was so much better than the 3 (using 24t pulley). I used 2mm split. I did not have a problem with rear shock tower but my bro did. It wasn't really a serious accident, however it broke just 2 holes above where the shocks are mounted. It was one of those accidents that your first reaction is, "that was a lazy crush, and it broke?"... He never really noticed it until after the race. Amazingly enough, his lap times did not change, still lucky . I guess it depends on how lucky you are, but from experience - durability is still an issue for those skinny shock towers. Overall, its one heck of a car. Can't wait to run it again next week.
u change few thgs from d stock sheet?i duno u noticed this or nor,but wit d new shock tower,d rear seems like bit softer,mybe thats why u change to gray spring? r u using dogbone or UJ?
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Old 11-07-2005, 06:50 PM   #1879
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcfoolz
Ran the second race yesterday with the 4. 1st race was at Kissimmee and second race was at Superior. 2 different types of tracks. At superior, it was a tight track, not much of a straight, but alot of turns. The was again AWSOME. Made some setup changes this time. Moved the rear shock up one hole and put 10000 diff oil in, down from the 30000 at Kissimmee. Also removed the shimms on top of the rear uprights. This settled the rear down and it stuck! On the front, ran 1mm of shim on the upper arm and went with Dark Blue springs. and ran 40'shore tires. The car was awsome. I took the Maxx Power engine out and put in an MT12. In the first qualifier, I flamed out, and in the second I blew a plug. (well, at 320deg, it melted) so, in the B main, it started 2nd to last. Not the cars fault, just the driver for not tuning his engine . It easily took the B and bumped to the A. I didn't have time to change the tires, but thought I had enough to run the A. Started last in the A and was in 2nd after the first lap. About 3 min in, the side belt blew off the car after a smack into the boards, but seriously, it was like a Hockey game out there with all the hits going on. I drove the car for a few laps and was all the way back in last before I pitted and got the belt back on. Needless to say, the rear tires took some abuse, so it was DRIFTING time!
I'm working on a new piece of carbon fiber today to tighten the belt just a bit more, so I shouldn't have this problem again. Nothing broke on the car and even drifting around, it was all over the leader. Still finnished 5th.

If anybody is thinking about getting the car but don't want to spend the money, DON'T, it makes it easier for us that have one to pass you
side belt blew?came off or cut off?well mine i noticed when fixed on d 24puly,d belt went too much freeplay,then gota adjust d tensioner..
maybe u wana try putting G4 tensioner wheel instead of stock tensioner bearing,i faced badtime wit that bearin lastime..
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Old 11-07-2005, 07:13 PM   #1880
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MAVICXXX
side belt blew?came off or cut off?well mine i noticed when fixed on d 24puly,d belt went too much freeplay,then gota adjust d tension-er..
maybe u wanna try putting G4 tensioner wheel instead of stock tensioner bearing,i faced bad time wit that bearing lastime..

SACRILAGE!!!!!!!!! never put another cars parts on a Mugen!!!
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Old 11-07-2005, 07:32 PM   #1881
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Slotmachine
SACRILAGE!!!!!!!!! never put another cars parts on a Mugen!!!
I second that!!

but on the side note.. the side belt haven gave us any problem.. i think it is suppose to be this loose..
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Old 11-07-2005, 10:32 PM   #1882
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vinyard
I second that!!

but on the side note.. the side belt haven gave us any problem.. i think it is suppose to be this loose..
nop actually,wit good tensioning and bearing lubricate,it should stand good..
but stil back to LUCK,then i got nothing to comment if LUCK is not on ur or my side..
did i mentioned G4?yes lar.. 3R oso got that type of tensioner,mybe mugen wil comout wit d option part later.. more durable and less maintenance..
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Old 11-08-2005, 01:49 AM   #1883
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MAVICXXX
u change few thgs from d stock sheet?i duno u noticed this or nor,but wit d new shock tower,d rear seems like bit softer,mybe thats why u change to gray spring? r u using dogbone or UJ?
o ya, that also, UJ up front and DB at the rear. About the spring, the light blue seemed very soft and made the car sluggish on the turn. We have a really super tight/small track, too many turns. Just the way everything about the track just doesn't fit the cars stock suspension; and also my likings And I don't think it was the shock towers flex making the suspension feels soft. The suspension movements are up & down, not horizontally Maybe it does, but everything worked out great after the switched.
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Old 11-08-2005, 02:18 AM   #1884
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side belt problems????
i run my mtx4 now for around 5l fuel,
and i have no problem with that fast car
dieter
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Old 11-08-2005, 02:29 AM   #1885
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Update: After taking the car down and cleaning it, I noticed that the side belt tensioner was not all the way down adjusted. This is because the aluminum screw block on the back side was resting on the engine mount taps. To rectify this, I had to take a dremmel to the engine block mount tab and grind off about 2 mm so that the adjuster would rest where it should.
anybody looking to run a Rossi Pixi on this car will have this to deal with. Still, if I would have been more ALERT when I mounted the engine, and what caused the belt to fly off, it would have never happened in the first place.
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Old 11-08-2005, 03:12 AM   #1886
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my concern wit d tensioner is wer during long run time,dirt and oil mixed up stickin on d belt and starts to cover d bearing and thats wer d bearing got affected by it..then u wil start to loose d belt later..
in that case,i think d plastic roller or aluminium roller to replace d tensioner bearing is more suitable..just like G4 and 3R had..they got no prob wit it..
but the design mounting d tensioner is good coz no more moving holder wic can break too..
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Old 11-08-2005, 03:16 AM   #1887
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Default Over Drive!

Hi Guys

For my own interest sake, does the MTX4 give you a gearing option not ot run over drive? The reason i am asking is the MTX3 is the most popular chassis at my local track, but we run on concrete and have to use rubber tyres.

I am not sure why, but i am told overdrive and rubbers don't go?

Look forward to the replies

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Old 11-08-2005, 03:49 AM   #1888
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike_Swauger
Here you go.

C0228, T0207, C0227, And T0261.

You will only need a T0261 and T0215 to build the front spool that comes with the kit.
Mike:

Will you need either C0222C or T0244 to build a front diff?

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Old 11-08-2005, 08:17 AM   #1889
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Hey all, I can't seem to find my update sheet that's in the kit for the steering. I installed a diff in the car for an upcoming race, and the turnbuckle ends hit the diff. I don't want to mod the car, if its not called for, but I can't find the update sheet. Can anyone email it to me, or put it here? I'll take pic's tonight, if someone needs to see what I'm talking about.

Thanks...

By the way, I love the 4. I ran it a the Florida State race a few weeks ago. Though I didn't do too well, since I was building it while everyone was qualifying. The first time I started the car up was in the main's. I still had to set the radio gear up, and tune the engine, and still did 20.5 second lap times on a borrowed engine, an old body from the MTX3, and 20% Nitro fuel. I needed to be in the low 19's to be in the A main. Now my stuff arrived back from LA, (IHobbyExpo) and I took my X12 engine out of the 3, and installed it into the 4. But this weekends race is a tight track, so I installed the diff now.

Any help would be appreciated.
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Old 11-08-2005, 08:44 AM   #1890
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jea3
Hey all, I can't seem to find my update sheet that's in the kit for the steering. I installed a diff in the car for an upcoming race, and the turnbuckle ends hit the diff. I don't want to mod the car, if its not called for, but I can't find the update sheet. Can anyone email it to me, or put it here? I'll take pic's tonight, if someone needs to see what I'm talking about.

Thanks...

By the way, I love the 4. I ran it a the Florida State race a few weeks ago. Though I didn't do too well, since I was building it while everyone was qualifying. The first time I started the car up was in the main's. I still had to set the radio gear up, and tune the engine, and still did 20.5 second lap times on a borrowed engine, an old body from the MTX3, and 20% Nitro fuel. I needed to be in the low 19's to be in the A main. Now my stuff arrived back from LA, (IHobbyExpo) and I took my X12 engine out of the 3, and installed it into the 4. But this weekends race is a tight track, so I installed the diff now.

Any help would be appreciated.

you can get away with it by using the A ackerman. by using the B ackerman, you will have to shave off the ends where it rubs the diff. this is no problem when using the oneway, but with the diff the ends are rubbing the diff case because the diameter of it is larger than the diff pulley. try not shaving off too much as you will loose the "meat" of the ends. i suggest shaving it off small increments at a time and when you finally have clearance, even a little bit, you can stop shaving off material.

i tried the A ackerman with the diff case and there was no problem. if shaving was necessary, it would be very very minimal with A ackerman. but i suggest using the B since you said you are going to run a tight track. the rear will help you steer the car through the corner but it will not break loose to where it's uncontrollable. i love this car!
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