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Old 10-24-2005, 05:01 AM   #1591
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Quote:
Originally Posted by burito
I realised I had a small error in my original excel-chart (copy/paste errors are horrible...), I did revise it now in my original post from October 15th and everything is correct now.

I almost have my car done, looks pretty good.
Only small concerns are, but these are all mentioned already:
- engine area is very tight...
- front dogbones...

I was wondering what the overdrive (23t) is supposed to be good for when a 5mm split between front and rears is required! Seems like a too massive step to me and the "normal" ratio (with the 24t, which is big overdrive already) does require a 2.5mm split.
Does anyone know the reasons why they did that with the 23t?

Btw, the car can easily be equipped with +0mm off-set tyres as far as I can see, shouldn't be forced to get the new +1mm tyres...

Anyone checked the wheelbase? Seems quite long to me.
Reto,

I was told that the 23t pulley is for the guys who want to run Lola bodies on their cars.

Btw, no more R40 for you?
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Old 10-24-2005, 05:20 AM   #1592
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hi Mr Wing,
nice car there, loh.

George
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Old 10-24-2005, 05:24 AM   #1593
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@stefan: yep, I'm using the MTX-4 now and joined the Mugen team. I'm of course still using LRP-Power...

@wing: what tyre size did you run with the 23t? And what difference did you feel when changing from 24t to 23t (I assume you did adapt tyre size when you made this change!)?
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Old 10-24-2005, 07:28 AM   #1594
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jamie Corrado
I see you peeking Sohl.
Don't worry we'll have our 4's soon enough.
Just soaking in some of the initial feedback and building tips. We got time. I've got 1/8th on the mind right now.
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Old 10-24-2005, 07:46 AM   #1595
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chaya
hi Mr Wing,
nice car there, loh.

George
thanks...this car is really good...the car quality, performance is really high...

burito
I used a 24 t at the beginning...but the rear is moving too fast, when we change to 23t..front and rear speed is getting close, more easy to drive.for 23t..the tire is F61/R63
but we found out the most signifcant improvement is take off the 2mm shim from the rear arm...it make the camber won't change too match when it ener the corners...just my 2 cents....
will try to put the siro III to this car this weekend, but need to change the carbarator to JP (or nova) first,because the siro cab is too fatty..the brake disk will block the cabarator....
just small complaint about this car...when we want to change the engine, we need take off the side belt graphic

wing

Last edited by wing; 10-24-2005 at 08:01 AM.
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Old 10-24-2005, 09:48 AM   #1596
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Quote:
Has anybody had a problem getting the front suspension to have full travel? When I push the suspension down the shocks bottom out and the chassis is still 2mm away from the ground
it could also be the up-stop setscrew
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Old 10-24-2005, 11:12 AM   #1597
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hi wing,
if you use the 23 pulley with 2 mm split,front to rear, you use a car with more frontdrive.
dieter
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Old 10-24-2005, 11:15 AM   #1598
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JPFX
Has anybody had a problem getting the front suspension to have full travel? When I push the suspension down the shocks bottom out and the chassis is still 2mm away from the ground,also my side belt is very loose even when using the belt in the seperate bag and the 24T pulley. I have had a problem mounting the protoform mazda 6, what do you recommend?
1. check up stop screws
2. check the piston shaft, longer shaft rear, shorter shaft front
3. check the length of front and rear dogbones, longer rear, shorter front.

Loose Belt ? adjust belt tensioner until the belt doesnt touch the manifold.
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Old 10-24-2005, 11:22 AM   #1599
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Quote:
Originally Posted by burito
Anyone checked the wheelbase? Seems quite long to me.
exactly 26mm, measure from front wheel screw to rear wheel screw.
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Old 10-24-2005, 11:29 AM   #1600
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 4racer
hi,
1.000 front and rear drive is equal
1.001 more front drive
0.999 more rear drive

dieter
Thx dieter,

btw, which is true statement ?

More front drive is easier to drive ? *** i pick this one ***

OR more rear drive is easier to drive ?

OR front and rear are equal ?
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Old 10-24-2005, 11:43 AM   #1601
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asw7576
exactly 26mm, measure from front wheel screw to rear wheel screw.
26mm wheelbase? is this 1/50th scale MTX4?
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Old 10-24-2005, 11:44 AM   #1602
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rcracerdude
26mm wheelbase? is this 1/50th scale MTX4?
Hahahaha 26 centimeter
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Old 10-24-2005, 01:27 PM   #1603
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The bump-stop screws are not touching the plastic and the shock shafts and axles are all correct but it still doesnt reach the ground. The problem is that the plasic bit on the end of the shock that you thread on bottoms out on the shock body therefore stopping suspension movement. Also do mugen intend you to run the car at 1:1, that is why they give you a overdrive ratio chart that can be used to set overdrive to whatever you like by changing tyre size.
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Old 10-24-2005, 02:02 PM   #1604
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JPFX
The bump-stop screws are not touching the plastic and the shock shafts and axles are all correct but it still doesn't reach the ground. The problem is that the plastic bit on the end of the shock that you thread on bottoms out on the shock body therefore stopping suspension movement. Also do mugen intend you to run the car at 1:1, that is why they give you a overdrive ratio chart that can be used to set overdrive to whatever you like by changing tyre size.
How large of a tire are you using when you say the car wont hit the ground? Remember most racers don't use full sized tires when racing. Did you build the shocks to book Specs, (length)?
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Old 10-24-2005, 02:06 PM   #1605
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Quote:
Originally Posted by burito
I realised I had a small error in my original excel-chart (copy/paste errors are horrible...), I did revise it now in my original post from October 15th and everything is correct now.

I almost have my car done, looks pretty good.
Only small concerns are, but these are all mentioned already:
- engine area is very tight...
- front dogbones...

I was wondering what the overdrive (23t) is supposed to be good for when a 5mm split between front and rears is required! Seems like a too massive step to me and the "normal" ratio (with the 24t, which is big overdrive already) does require a 2.5mm split.
Does anyone know the reasons why they did that with the 23t?

Btw, the car can easily be equipped with +0mm off-set tyres as far as I can see, shouldn't be forced to get the new +1mm tyres...

Anyone checked the wheelbase? Seems quite long to me.
the car's wheelbase is 2mm shorter than the mtx-3
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