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Old 12-18-2002, 10:40 PM   #646
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Default mugen doggies

T0203 is the part # and they're of an MTX-2, if you run these you will have to extend your track to a full 200mm(no big deal), if you try to run them as per instruction setup they will interfere with the cars suspension compressing.

gt

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Old 12-18-2002, 10:50 PM   #647
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http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/produc...oducts_id=2296


Kyosho GP Racer (V-One-S) Racing with LOLA Body and GRP Foam Tyr USD$210.53

PureTen GP V-One S Racing 4WD

Cutting-edge technology!!
Thrilling speed makes this machine the master of a whole new category.

1)Recoil-started GS15-R engine's enormous displacement provides high p[ower and high torque. A special tuned silencer offers a wide power band.
2)Made of 3mm thick aluminum, the main chassis is strong and durable. Countersunk screw holes help avoid hang-ups.
3)An infinite range of camber/toe adjustments are possible with the ball connected suspension. The front and rear suspension arms feature a mechanism for easy height adjustment.
4)The radio box with built-in receiver holder shields sensitive on-board components from dust and protects the batteries from crash damage. Two covers are included to accommodate the size of your receiver and batteries.

Technical data:
Length: 425mm
Width: 200mm
Height: 102mm
Wheelbase: 260mm
Track: F 172mm R 168mm
Ground Clearance: 5mm
Gear Ratio: 7.26:1
Tires: F:65x26mm R:65x30mm
Weight:1700g
Engine:Kyosho GS15-R


This product was added to our catalog on Friday 13 December, 2002.


gt

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Old 12-19-2002, 04:32 AM   #648
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cool
i want a lola body, they are nice
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Old 12-19-2002, 04:51 AM   #649
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Buy one then !
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Old 12-19-2002, 05:58 AM   #650
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Default HELP

Hi.

Im havin trouble with my V One S

I have put the car together ect. And when i press accelerate the hole in the carby opens fully but then when i let go of the throttle the hole does not return to a one - two millimetre gap. How can i fix this???
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Old 12-19-2002, 06:14 AM   #651
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It's either got to do with your carb linkage or your radio settings.

If you followed the instructions and put the spring and all that where it says to, then I don't see why you're having problems.

So if it's not that then it must be your radio settings.

Take the servo thingy (i forgot what it's called) off and set the end point of your radio to the middle, then put it back on and try.

Hope this helps.
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Old 12-19-2002, 06:23 AM   #652
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Ok, i shall try again, hopefully it works
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Old 12-19-2002, 01:34 PM   #653
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Quote:
Originally posted by sausage_link
how do you think the zac tuned pipe would go on my engine

im thinking not as good as some pipes coz its prolly made for a .12 engine not .15
The zac pipe would flow better than the silent streak, as its also classified for .12-.15 engines, Its probly overkill though, An eagle pipe is real good value for money. The primary reason I went for the Zac is to match the engine, The same with my novarossi engine pipe combo. Remember though, If you change the pipe it will alter the tune of the car and you WILL have to richen it up to some degree to cope with thedifferent flow characteristics, but if youve still got the standard pipe on....replace it, you won't believe the difference.

gt

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Old 12-19-2002, 06:26 PM   #654
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svranjic,

Check out the spring that is controls the linkages. If it has lost its 'spring', then it is time to change one. Mine did not last for too long.

Good source of springs are the cheap plastic pens that allow you to retract the pen tips.
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Old 12-19-2002, 07:22 PM   #655
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He's just put the car together though, so the spring can't be worn out.
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Old 12-19-2002, 08:19 PM   #656
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Default Re: sl

Quote:
Originally posted by squizzytaylor
The zac pipe would flow better than the silent streak, as its also classified for .12-.15 engines, Its probly overkill though, An eagle pipe is real good value for money. The primary reason I went for the Zac is to match the engine, The same with my novarossi engine pipe combo. Remember though, If you change the pipe it will alter the tune of the car and you WILL have to richen it up to some degree to cope with thedifferent flow characteristics, but if youve still got the standard pipe on....replace it, you won't believe the difference.

gt

Well the reason I asked aobut the novarossi pipe coz I was going to get it for some1 from here. You said it overkill what do you mean by that? Still a newbie . Also U said Eagle Pin is real good value 4 $. Coul you give me the link so I can check it out.
again TTT a lot. U R the MAN
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Old 12-19-2002, 08:34 PM   #657
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how do i deletd this reply?

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Old 12-19-2002, 08:55 PM   #658
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Quote:
Originally posted by NitroJoe
Well the reason I asked aobut the novarossi pipe coz I was going to get it for some1 from here. You said it overkill what do you mean by that? Still a newbie . Also U said Eagle Pin is real good value 4 $. Coul you give me the link so I can check it out.
again TTT a lot. U R the MAN
Ok, assuming your using the original gs15r engine, it is a relatively low horsepower engine and as such you would get the same performance increase from a cheaper generic type pipe, Eagle was the brand I used as an example and is marketed in the US as Integy, there are a thousand brands on the market!
The biggest point I was trying to make is not to go out and buy mega-buck performance parts for this engine when its true performance potential is somewhat limited to start with!
The big exception to this is if you planned on upgrading your engine in the near future, then providing you were going to stick with a side-exhaust engine, go-for-it as all parts would fit om the new egine anyway.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0301p?&C=GMB

There are a few here.

hope thats of some help Joe

gt

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Old 12-20-2002, 03:44 AM   #659
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Chassis damage

The car is running really well now, thanks to all the good advice that's been given!
Unless any of you can suggest a tyre for running on ice we've had to suspend racing although we did get out last night for a couple of hours until security kicked us out of the car park.
One thing that I have noticed now that I've got a bit more speed and consistency is that the chassis is taking a real hammering running in a car park. The uneven surface and the occasional stone means that we're getting sparks. Also last night I somehow managed to rip out one of the countersunk screws that holds the rear diff onto the chassis. I was able to replace it no problem so I don't quite know how it happened.
Is there a setup / optional part or mod that anyone can suggest to cope with the type of surface we're running on?
I guess the ideal would be to raise the running height of the car without making it too stiff.
The current setup is totally standard although I do have the largest spacers on the shocks.
Cheers in advance
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Old 12-20-2002, 05:11 AM   #660
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Default Andy

yes you can raise the ride height albeit at the expense of handling to some degree, You're not racing competitively so its probably no great drama,yeah. The biggest thing to consider is when you raise the height of the vehicle the camber settings change and will have to be compensated for so the purchase of a cheap camber guage (no more than 10-15 pounds) will help.
other than that ......not much I can say! you can buy a product called ski-saver, an adhesive plastic and stick it under your chassis and it will offer some protection over your chassis.
When the car is stationary with a full tank of fuel, it should be approx 5-6mm off the ground. An easy way to check this is to put the car on a flat surface and use a 5mm allen(hex) key to set the height.

gt

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