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Old 07-30-2012, 09:41 AM   #61
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What does the entry list look like so far?
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Old 07-30-2012, 10:58 AM   #62
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Originally Posted by Theo49306 View Post
Can you move Bill up to open with Hammer? I dont like having heart attacks on the driver stand. Bill, the only way I got around you was with my fastest in the west pit guy Terry. Great race, had fun, your a clean racer, thks
Are you saying Ted's helecoptor spin move then a double trigger pull to make sure the tank is 100% full is less than fast? Say it ain't so. lol
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Old 07-30-2012, 01:21 PM   #63
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What are the rules for the GT8 class at this event?
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Old 07-30-2012, 01:24 PM   #64
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Originally Posted by Dasmopar View Post
Are you saying Ted's helecoptor spin move then a double trigger pull to make sure the tank is 100% full is less than fast? Say it ain't so. lol
I needed something for Terry to complain about for the ride home, it kept me from falling asleep. Also Hammer paid me 10 bucks. I think the extra spin keeps the fuel mixed more. Lon Terry must of been talking about how fast I am to you after the race
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Old 07-30-2012, 05:06 PM   #65
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Originally Posted by bassman2 View Post
What are the rules for the GT8 class at this event?
I suspect Midwest Series rules would apply, the usual stuff. Standard body, slicks, three port under 200 retail, 150 cc tank, etc. In short, pretty easy to pass tech...
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Old 07-30-2012, 06:03 PM   #66
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Yes,

I believe these are the rules that we have been following for the last couple of years. Rick Davis and Mark Rodney are in charge of our Tech area.





ROAR does not currently have rules specific to the 1/8 GT class. In an effort to minimize costs and maintain competition between racers, the Midwest Series follows the rules listed below:
1/8 GT Class
Chassis : Any 1/8 scale buggy based shaft driven nitro powered car. (Any off-road conversion is OK)

Body : Any commercially available GT style body.

Wings and spoilers can be used if they are the original with the body and cut on the factory lines. Rear of the bodies should maintain tail lamps and can not be completely cut out.
Tires : Any commercially available rubber (No foam based tires allowed) GT style tires are OK.

Any insert is OK.
All tires must fit under the body. (No addition of wheel flares)
No electronics may be added to aid in vehicle stability.
Wide rear tires will be allowed.
Engine : Any .28 or smaller displacement “spec” style engine.

All factory installed internal parts with NO modifications.
Must be commercially available.
Regular price suggested to be under $200 not including tax. (Use Tower Hobbies, Stormer Hobbies, Horizon Hobbies or any other large retail store as price reference.)
Pipes : Any tuned pipe is OK.

The PAN car class is new for 2012 and as of yet does not have any specific guidelines for participation. The Midwest Series will allow the racers of this class to come together and dictate the direction of this class. To learn a little about what is going on in this division you may visit RCTECH to join in the discussion.


Maybe we can get Rick and Mark to add in their view point
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Old 07-30-2012, 06:10 PM   #67
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Yes, I believe the flick (launch) back into pit lane and down the track is the most important part of the Fuel stop.

I tried a traditional car position in Bill's first stop and lost to much time, trying to find the hole in the tank. My second stop was much better, but that was Bill's opinion.
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Old 07-30-2012, 06:36 PM   #68
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$200 engine for a GT?? I would say for $280 you can get a descent engine and just need to get one, with the $200 rule there is not much to pick from and you need at least 2 because usually cheaper engines have less quality materials. I hope you guys reconsider that rule, or just leave it open as we agreed on the set of rules presented to Roar.
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Old 07-30-2012, 07:19 PM   #69
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Originally Posted by rinolino View Post
$200 engine for a GT?? I would say for $280 you can get a descent engine and just need to get one, with the $200 rule there is not much to pick from and you need at least 2 because usually cheaper engines have less quality materials. I hope you guys reconsider that rule, or just leave it open as we agreed on the set of rules presented to Roar.
I personally do not prefer buying a cheap engine that has SO MUCH raw power (like an Ofna .28 or LRP .28) knowing these engines will not last as long as higher priced or better quality engine. When I purchase an engine I look for durability, how well it stays in tune, and how well it performs on the track.

Other things I've noticed about running cheap .28 engines (less than $200) are rotating components on the cars do not last as long as they should due to their torque rating are so high.

So by running a cheap engine for the GT class will end up costing more money for the racers in the long run:

-You'll need to buy SEVERAL cheap engines just so you can race the entire season

-The internal rotating parts of the vehicle will need to be replaced MORE often

-You'll need to be lucky enough to find an engine that will stay in tune for you. I've seeing folks who had bought 4 brand new Ofna .28 engines and only 1 was good enough to stay in tune

I myself would like to save money since I race very often throughout the year.

Somebody might prefer saving money INITIALLY by purchasing a cheap .28 engine that has so much power and he or she can just find the right gearing setup to be very competitive with the high dollar engines. And others might prefer saving money in the long run by purchasing a high quality more expensive engine that might not have the bottom end power but has very good mid to top end performance. In this case he or she can just find the right gearing setup and be very competitive as well.

I would like to see OPEN engine rule for the GT8 class.

Andy Liu "Flyin Hawaiian"
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Last edited by bassman2; 07-30-2012 at 07:30 PM.
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Old 07-30-2012, 07:54 PM   #70
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You coming up from Austin, Andy? Fantastic if you are!

It seems that Werks has a 190.00 5 port that works really well off road, Novarossi ALWAYS has a 150+- dollar 3 port that's nice...I don't see the issue. .21 vs .28? Come on...

Quote:
Originally Posted by bassman2 View Post
I personally do not prefer buying a cheap engine that has SO MUCH raw power (like an Ofna .28 or LRP .28) knowing these engines will not last as long as higher priced or better quality engine. When I purchase an engine I look for durability, how well it stays in tune, and how well it performs on the track.

Other things I've noticed about running cheap .28 engines (less than $200) are rotating components on the cars do not last as long as they should due to their torque rating are so high.

So by running a cheap engine for the GT class will end up costing more money for the racers in the long run:

-You'll need to buy SEVERAL cheap engines just so you can race the entire season

-The internal rotating parts of the vehicle will need to be replaced MORE often

-You'll need to be lucky enough to find an engine that will stay in tune for you. I've seeing folks who had bought 4 brand new Ofna .28 engines and only 1 was good enough to stay in tune

I myself would like to save money since I race very often throughout the year.

Somebody might prefer saving money INITIALLY by purchasing a cheap .28 engine that has so much power and he or she can just find the right gearing setup to be very competitive with the high dollar engines. And others might prefer saving money in the long run by purchasing a high quality more expensive engine that might not have the bottom end power but has very good mid to top end performance. In this case he or she can just find the right gearing setup and be very competitive as well.

I would like to see OPEN engine rule for the GT8 class.

Andy Liu "Flyin Hawaiian"
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Old 07-30-2012, 09:22 PM   #71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bassman2 View Post
I personally do not prefer buying a cheap engine that has SO MUCH raw power (like an Ofna .28 or LRP .28) knowing these engines will not last as long as higher priced or better quality engine. When I purchase an engine I look for durability, how well it stays in tune, and how well it performs on the track.

Other things I've noticed about running cheap .28 engines (less than $200) are rotating components on the cars do not last as long as they should due to their torque rating are so high.

So by running a cheap engine for the GT class will end up costing more money for the racers in the long run:

-You'll need to buy SEVERAL cheap engines just so you can race the entire season

-The internal rotating parts of the vehicle will need to be replaced MORE often

-You'll need to be lucky enough to find an engine that will stay in tune for you. I've seeing folks who had bought 4 brand new Ofna .28 engines and only 1 was good enough to stay in tune

I myself would like to save money since I race very often throughout the year.

Somebody might prefer saving money INITIALLY by purchasing a cheap .28 engine that has so much power and he or she can just find the right gearing setup to be very competitive with the high dollar engines. And others might prefer saving money in the long run by purchasing a high quality more expensive engine that might not have the bottom end power but has very good mid to top end performance. In this case he or she can just find the right gearing setup and be very competitive as well.

I would like to see OPEN engine rule for the GT8 class.

Andy Liu "Flyin Hawaiian"
Sorry to hear your luck on engines. However there are several out there that have long life and are dirt cheap. S&H is such an example and I'd match it against any engine out there for reliability and durability.
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Old 07-30-2012, 09:26 PM   #72
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Quote:
Originally Posted by XPHamer View Post
Yes,

I believe these are the rules that we have been following for the last couple of years. Rick Davis and Mark Rodney are in charge of our Tech area.





ROAR does not currently have rules specific to the 1/8 GT class. In an effort to minimize costs and maintain competition between racers, the Midwest Series follows the rules listed below:
1/8 GT Class
Chassis : Any 1/8 scale buggy based shaft driven nitro powered car. (Any off-road conversion is OK)

Body : Any commercially available GT style body.

Wings and spoilers can be used if they are the original with the body and cut on the factory lines. Rear of the bodies should maintain tail lamps and can not be completely cut out.
Tires : Any commercially available rubber (No foam based tires allowed) GT style tires are OK.

Any insert is OK.
All tires must fit under the body. (No addition of wheel flares)
No electronics may be added to aid in vehicle stability.
Wide rear tires will be allowed.
Engine : Any .28 or smaller displacement “spec” style engine.

All factory installed internal parts with NO modifications.
Must be commercially available.
Regular price suggested to be under $200 not including tax. (Use Tower Hobbies, Stormer Hobbies, Horizon Hobbies or any other large retail store as price reference.)
Pipes : Any tuned pipe is OK.

The PAN car class is new for 2012 and as of yet does not have any specific guidelines for participation. The Midwest Series will allow the racers of this class to come together and dictate the direction of this class. To learn a little about what is going on in this division you may visit RCTECH to join in the discussion.


Maybe we can get Rick and Mark to add in their view point
Pan was discussed in another forum. All the rules you'd ever need for pan are still existing in the ROAR rulebook. 2wd, weight, height, wing, blah blah...it's all there in black and white. No new guidelines are necessary, Lon Sr., Ned, myself and a few others hashed this out at the beginning of the year. If anyone has a problem with any of the existing rules we can talk about that but as it stands I don't see a problem.
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Old 07-30-2012, 09:28 PM   #73
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Farmer_John View Post
You coming up from Austin, Andy? Fantastic if you are!

It seems that Werks has a 190.00 5 port that works really well off road, Novarossi ALWAYS has a 150+- dollar 3 port that's nice...I don't see the issue. .21 vs .28? Come on...
Being fresh in GT, I was in favour of the $200 gate and bought a Werks 28. Experience with this motor is sadly not good, it always ran hot and never hit a consistent state. Can't beat that mental space when you're fighting a turd thru a big race. Werks are probably fine in the dirt where they belong but for GT work, not for me Got a Rossi 28 hitting the front door tomorrow, again under $200. Hope it holds up and disproves my growing sentiment to have open wallets for GT motors.

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Old 07-31-2012, 06:09 AM   #74
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Originally Posted by Victor Vector View Post
Being fresh in GT, I was in favour of the $200 gate and bought a Werks 28. Experience with this motor is sadly not good, it always ran hot and never hit a consistent state. Can't beat that mental space when you're fighting a turd thru a big race. Werks are probably fine in the dirt where they belong but for GT work, not for me Got a Rossi 28 hitting the front door tomorrow, again under $200. Hope it holds up and disproves my growing sentiment to have open wallets for GT motors.

Jacko
Your experience is a perfect example of what we are trying to explain, so far you are expending $400 on engines and I would like to say it will stop there unfortunately you get what you pay for and there are a very few engines that will be at least reliable for under $200. I know they are some but the options are very limited. With just a little more money you open the door to a wider variety of engine options.
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Old 07-31-2012, 06:34 AM   #75
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Originally Posted by XPHamer View Post
Yes, I believe the flick (launch) back into pit lane and down the track is the most important part of the Fuel stop.

I tried a traditional car position in Bill's first stop and lost to much time, trying to find the hole in the tank. My second stop was much better, but that was Bill's opinion.

LOL - I've been there seems that tank hole just won't stay still sometimes to refuel. You did good Ted I lost the race by driving over a candy cane instead of around it- That was the final pass by Ted R.
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