SteveP

That's going to be the next thing I try. Not only is the wheelbase much more appropriate for cars of this size, but the weight bias towards the front end is considerably better than a shorty, which makes me believe that it could potentially turn in under a GT2. I want to do this because buggies and more importantly, trucks, are the foundation of the GT class cars, and the majority of truck chassis have gone to a chassis of this length. So, to me it only makes sense to test our cars with the long chassis. It should the the standard for cars in this class.

michael knight

Thanks for the input guys. After trying different things found here and across the web I wasn't able to resolve my problem. I think I may have some old/bad o-rings. My solution... just buy a new factory set carb. lol. Maybe a waste of money, but my experience with carbs that were run and then sat around for a couple years is not to good.
I'll let you know how it turns out.
Best,
Damon

C-Trickle

iTrader: (2)

Makes sense to me. I'm going to slap the RT246 on mine today just because I need it going by next weeks points race. But I've really been wanting to try the ST-RR chassis. I think it will be the ticket. Or just be different and cool. hahaha

Vision

iTrader: (41)

I think the ST-RR chassis would be great too. On my Xo-1 I noticed that extra chassis length over the GT2 does wonders. We just have to figure out if the rear st-rr cvd would work (I think it should).

C-Trickle

iTrader: (2)

Should....but the Shoe Type 2 speed shaft is longer.....so maybe a tad machine work is needed.

The Kyosho MP9 aluminum radio tray posts do NOT work with the GT/GT2. They are too short. Bummer too, I liked the gunmetal better.

VexVegaz

cant u use some think aluminum washers to extend the length of those radio posts? if you place the washers on the top side, the tray will cover it and you wont be able to notice it. also, the metal to metal should eliminate any structural weakness issues that may occur.

jeffrey863

Damon, we'll get these things running one day. Atleast yours didnt sling the rod half way back to japan lol

On a happy note, my pinstripping is done and I got the rod in today!!! I may have it running this weekend guys!

C-Trickle

iTrader: (2)

They're almost a 1/4 inch shorter. So by adding the aluminum washers to compensate you would loose any strength benefits. So better off to have the actual GT2 ones.

VexVegaz

o wow, i didnt know the difference was that much. also they have the gunmetal radio posts for the gt2 as well
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Set-Gunmetal-4


BTW I saw a few guys at my local track that modded thier gt2 and fitted the ofna dm1 defuser. what is the purpose of the diffuser and how would it benefit the gt2?

SteveP

Vex, unless you have a "closed system," where the body is sealed to the chassis and there's not massive amounts of air swirling around underneath the body, the diffuser is just going to be for decoration. It can look cool and there's nothing wrong with having it on the car, but it can't do much without better control of the airflow under the chassis and inside the body shell.

P.S. I finally located all the gears for you to try, so they'll be on their way to your tomorrow.

VexVegaz

Thanks Steve,

My upgrades are slowly coming together, but the rest will have to wait a bit.

I did think they looked cool but wasn't exactly sure if there was any significant results with them being on. However, at the very least they can act as a rear bumper (which what i though they were initially).

Vision

iTrader: (41)

I had it, mainly serves are a rear bumper, didn't notice too much performance benefit as Steve said.

SteveP

Vex - gears are on the way. Specially made prototypes right from R&D in Japan. Let me know what you think. You'll need to remove the spacers from between the gears on the stock clutch bell and reinstall it between the new gears. Getting the gears off will be a bitch the first time around. I found that holding the 1st gear pinion with a set of pliers that have teeth that are close to the pitch of the gears to avoid damage, is pretty effective. I ran a LONG 2mm allen wrench through the hole in the clutch bell and used a plastic tipped hammer on the 2mm wrench (as close to the clutch bell as possible) and that did the job of loosening the gears. Obvious you don't want to use an allen wrench that you need, because it's going to get bent, but take my advice on this one - don't use an expensive Hudy tool, just in case it crosses your mind.

Lastly, you'll need to modify the fuel tank support as shown if you run a 2nd gear pinion larger than 20T. the 21 and 22T gears will hit the tank support.

VexVegaz

Thanks Steve,

Thankfully, my father has an old titanium rod thats thin and strong enough to put in the holes of the clutch bell that provided great torq to get the pinions out. The silver washer in between the first and second gear was removed by unscrewing the first pinion, and with a rubber padded long nose i was able to carefully remove the washer using a unscrewing motion (CCW).

I am also in the process of removing the aluminum a-arms to get a better feel and understanding of what the new higher gear ratio will bring in a racing environment. As soon as thats complete, ill go ahead and and mod the fuel tank posts so that when the gears do come, all i have to do is slap in and go.

Also, i plan to run a few tanks through car in stock configuration as a reminder of how it performs at stock and move up from there.

C-Trickle

iTrader: (2)

Ok. So I know that the upper/lower A and B blocks allow you to adjust your caster to some degree. But which block changes what? By how much? What would be the set up to run to end up with the least amount of caster?