22LikesKyosho Inferno GT, GT2 Race Spec
06-08-2012, 06:06 AM
#46
Thanks Steve!
I got the parts on my cart, but before I order, can you recommend a logical gearing for my gt2 with that torqy lrp .30? im thinking 17/20 (part numbers?) to smooth out the engines power.
Thanks
I got the parts on my cart, but before I order, can you recommend a logical gearing for my gt2 with that torqy lrp .30? im thinking 17/20 (part numbers?) to smooth out the engines power.
Thanks
06-08-2012, 12:56 PM
#47
Vex, it's hard to say, but if the engine has big low-end power, I'd suggest 16/20T with .95 clutch springs and a conservative setting on the two-speed.
06-08-2012, 01:01 PM
#48
thanks steve, do you have the part number for that 16t 1st gear?
Thanks again!
EDIT! the old clutch bell is 20t, will it fit on the new 008 clutch bell?
Thanks again!
EDIT! the old clutch bell is 20t, will it fit on the new 008 clutch bell?
06-08-2012, 01:17 PM
#49
Vex, I'm sorry, the IG112-16 is not out yet. It's one of the prototype gears I tested. Perhaps I can send you some of the optional gears to test. I have small selection of prototypes that you can run and give feedback if you have time. The 20T second gear is IG113-20.
06-08-2012, 01:28 PM
#50
ok order is placed, should have them in by the middle of next week. I would love to test them out for you, and I believe i'm articulate enough to be able to communicate my results.
06-08-2012, 06:15 PM
#51
Vex, send me a message (I turned them on temporarily) with your information, and I'll send them out to you.
06-08-2012, 06:23 PM
#52
sent Steve, thanks again!
06-09-2012, 05:40 AM
#53
Tech Adept
Originally Posted by SteveP
I prefer the TRW105 shocks for the fact that the machined shock bodies and the all of the hardware are higher quality. The shocks are more durable and more consistent than the stock ones, so I would suggest adding them to any car. They're not going to result in much faster lap times, but they will make the performance more consistent, which may improve your overall result.
Vex, even though it's more money, I STRONGLY suggest you upgrade to the IF21/IF106 ring and pinion gears for the front and rear diffs. They are worth it if you have extra power in the car, or if you drive it really hard. They're made from high-carbon steel and are legendary for their durability.
Another thing you may consider for your car is new bulkheads. The molded parts on the GT2 are made by Kyosho using the same material, machines and staff that make the MP9, so they're good, but being sure you have the latest bulkhead is a cheap and safe insurance policy for your optional gears. The IF112D bulkhead was developed for the STRR Evo, and it's STRONG. The bulkhead was the reason we saw damaged gears in the previous trucks, and the strength of the IF112D is specifically increased to prolong gear life.
The stock gear sizes of the IGW008 are 15/18 and 43/46. Let me know if you have problems finding the shims. I'll be sure to get 'er done.
Vex, even though it's more money, I STRONGLY suggest you upgrade to the IF21/IF106 ring and pinion gears for the front and rear diffs. They are worth it if you have extra power in the car, or if you drive it really hard. They're made from high-carbon steel and are legendary for their durability.
Another thing you may consider for your car is new bulkheads. The molded parts on the GT2 are made by Kyosho using the same material, machines and staff that make the MP9, so they're good, but being sure you have the latest bulkhead is a cheap and safe insurance policy for your optional gears. The IF112D bulkhead was developed for the STRR Evo, and it's STRONG. The bulkhead was the reason we saw damaged gears in the previous trucks, and the strength of the IF112D is specifically increased to prolong gear life.
The stock gear sizes of the IGW008 are 15/18 and 43/46. Let me know if you have problems finding the shims. I'll be sure to get 'er done.
06-09-2012, 04:56 PM
#54
over revved my motor today and snapped the connecting rod today guys 
would it be better to go in and replace it or just buy the spec race motor??
would it be better to go in and replace it or just buy the spec race motor??
06-09-2012, 09:25 PM
#55
Originally Posted by jeffrey863
over revved my motor today and snapped the connecting rod today guys
would it be better to go in and replace it or just buy the spec race motor??
would it be better to go in and replace it or just buy the spec race motor??
06-10-2012, 03:53 AM
#56
Originally Posted by jeffrey863
over revved my motor today and snapped the connecting rod today guys
would it be better to go in and replace it or just buy the spec race motor??
would it be better to go in and replace it or just buy the spec race motor??
Lee
Lee
06-10-2012, 05:36 AM
#57
Now If i were to run in the GT class in some races, There wouldn't be a problem with running the aftermarket motor as far as rule violations correct??
Also do the aftermarket motors come with better clutches? I was in the process of breaking in the BRAND NEW 3 shoe with race springs from infernosOnly.com lol
Just my luck haha
Also do the aftermarket motors come with better clutches? I was in the process of breaking in the BRAND NEW 3 shoe with race springs from infernosOnly.com lol
Just my luck haha
06-10-2012, 09:48 AM
#58
As what many have already mentioned, there's a ton of engines that can be picked up that would be a huge upgrade to the stock engines at a relatively cheap price.
However, I strongly suggest that if your new to nitro and/or new to the car, replace the broken connecting rod and use that to better familiarize yourself with the car and see how far you can take it. The hobby will let you know when your driving skills surpass the engine's potential and that's usually the best sign to upgrade into a more powerful/faster engine.
One thing about this hobby, you can always buy your way into something faster but if your driving doesn't match the engines power or speed, you can place yourself in issues and further expense.
jeff, motors rarely come with clutches and springs. they need to be purchased separately.
However, I strongly suggest that if your new to nitro and/or new to the car, replace the broken connecting rod and use that to better familiarize yourself with the car and see how far you can take it. The hobby will let you know when your driving skills surpass the engine's potential and that's usually the best sign to upgrade into a more powerful/faster engine.
One thing about this hobby, you can always buy your way into something faster but if your driving doesn't match the engines power or speed, you can place yourself in issues and further expense.
jeff, motors rarely come with clutches and springs. they need to be purchased separately.
06-10-2012, 11:00 AM
#59
Originally Posted by jeffrey863
Now If i were to run in the GT class in some races, There wouldn't be a problem with running the aftermarket motor as far as rule violations correct??
Also do the aftermarket motors come with better clutches? I was in the process of breaking in the BRAND NEW 3 shoe with race springs from infernosOnly.com lol
Just my luck haha
Also do the aftermarket motors come with better clutches? I was in the process of breaking in the BRAND NEW 3 shoe with race springs from infernosOnly.com lol
Just my luck haha
Regarding the engine - check with the club you plan to race with to see if they have special rules. Our club currently requires that the engine have a street price of under $200 and the LRP .28 I am running cost about $170. To the best of my knowledge the engine I am running is legal at National events.
Lee
06-10-2012, 11:08 AM
#60
The engine debate for the GT class is endless! Basically decided on a budget for an engine/pipe, what you want from an engine, and then we could better help find something that fits your needs.
But imho its not worth keeping the GXR-28 going, better off replacing it with a nicer engine. Plenty of fine engines can be had for <$200. Once you get in the $200-$300 range, I don't feel the speed goes up much more, but the engine build quality and tune-ability does.
But imho its not worth keeping the GXR-28 going, better off replacing it with a nicer engine. Plenty of fine engines can be had for <$200. Once you get in the $200-$300 range, I don't feel the speed goes up much more, but the engine build quality and tune-ability does.
