Kyosho Inferno GT, GT2 Race Spec
#406
Tech Rookie
Nice one
Kevin: Kyosho GT 2 Race Spec (LONDON)
#407
Tech Master
iTrader: (2)
Hi Lee, thanks a million for the Ipanema warrior body, hat a brilliant day on Saturday trying to brake the world land speed record nearly killed my mates cat in the process as it ran across the road on a hot lap, definitely lost one of its life from the scare. Anyways got a list of goods I need from your good self. I know you said you were expecting to replenish your Ipanema items, have you got the following, GT Radials (need two sets), Monster Slicks (need a set), GT tire warmer. Tried to email you but keep getting error message (think fault from me as I get your mail). Also need Torque Rods for Kyosho GT.
Kevin: Kyosho GT 2 Race Spec (LONDON)
Kevin: Kyosho GT 2 Race Spec (LONDON)
it is good to hear from you. I expect to get Ipanema tires back in stock within 2 weeks. I will email you when I know that they are on the way to me.
How do you like the Warrior body?
Lee
#408
Tech Rookie
Brilliant
[QUOTE=Winner's Circle;11890613]Kevin,
it is good to hear from you. I expect to get Ipanema tires back in stock within 2 weeks. I will email you when I know that they are on the way to me.
How do you like the Warrior body?
Lee[/
BRILLIANT simply BRILLIANT, very little drag and car sticks to the ground like crazy, Loving the hell out of it. Now my mates want your email so they can place there orders and trust me I reluctantly gave it to them as they could not stand watching my Ipanema GT smash their cars all day long.. Sorry Lee I know you don't need stackers which is what my mates will be until they get their Ipanema fix. .
Quick question does kyosho do a harder main chassis for the GT RS?
it is good to hear from you. I expect to get Ipanema tires back in stock within 2 weeks. I will email you when I know that they are on the way to me.
How do you like the Warrior body?
Lee[/
BRILLIANT simply BRILLIANT, very little drag and car sticks to the ground like crazy, Loving the hell out of it. Now my mates want your email so they can place there orders and trust me I reluctantly gave it to them as they could not stand watching my Ipanema GT smash their cars all day long.. Sorry Lee I know you don't need stackers which is what my mates will be until they get their Ipanema fix. .
Quick question does kyosho do a harder main chassis for the GT RS?
#409
Tech Champion
Are the stock GT2 Race tires any good?
I need something simple for my DM-1, but don't like how all the Rally Game tires (which are mostly available here..) are so small - kills top-speed. I was running SC8 tires, but they're blown out now... I can get a set of stock IGT2 Race tires cheap...
I need something simple for my DM-1, but don't like how all the Rally Game tires (which are mostly available here..) are so small - kills top-speed. I was running SC8 tires, but they're blown out now... I can get a set of stock IGT2 Race tires cheap...
#410
Tech Rookie
Are the stock GT2 Race tires any good?
I need something simple for my DM-1, but don't like how all the Rally Game tires (which are mostly available here..) are so small - kills top-speed. I was running SC8 tires, but they're blown out now... I can get a set of stock IGT2 Race tires cheap...
I need something simple for my DM-1, but don't like how all the Rally Game tires (which are mostly available here..) are so small - kills top-speed. I was running SC8 tires, but they're blown out now... I can get a set of stock IGT2 Race tires cheap...
#411
Tech Rookie
Nice one
Lee forgot to say thanks lot for the rear air dam works a treat keep that between me and you . I will get the BUKU clutch just need to get a few other things as well.
#412
Tech Champion
For me NO but others like them, I ripped the front tires BOTH to bits and the rear ones are bold and this is two weeks after getting them well it does not help when you have a monster of an engine ripping into it (did not last) I am currently switching between Ipanema and Sweep and both give good top speed Ipanema more as they offer a wider rear tire (more grip) If I were using the stock Kyosho KE 25 then the stock tires would be fine but for a race tuned engine they are, sorry for the language S**t (my opinion).
#413
Tech Rookie
Thanks. I don't race, or care enough about my DM-1 to order Sweep, Ipanema(would never have anything to do with them anyway...), or whatever other tires from abroad.. I just want something solid with a bigger diameter than Rally Game tires and which will have a decent amount of grip and not cost much..
#414
Hi Guys,
What Diff oil you guys using in the front & Rear?
Thanks!
What Diff oil you guys using in the front & Rear?
Thanks!
#416
Guys if someone can solve me this problem i will really really appreciate it.
I had an mp777 almost wc that i have converted to gt.
The center diff is still one gear 46t and i have put 100 000 diff oil from ofna and for cluthbell i have used 18t.
for the front diff i have use 50 000 diff oil and for the rear 7 000.
For shocks i have used the front mp9 ones with the losi high rate springs.
The stabilizers are the ones that came with the buggy.
As for ride height and droop i have not measured it for the moment to tell you and i dont have it near me now as i am at work.
Tires i have used some grp on road gt tires which i bough new a few years ago.
I went to the track to run the car and i can not tell how bad it spin out.
It seemed that the front end will push the rear end too much..
I couldnt run a lap without spining.
Then i gave it to the fastest guy in the track to run it and he could not do a lap without spinning also. He told me that he thinks that my rear diff oil is not too hard and he told me i must use much higher diff oil viscosity generally for front and rear.
I have checked some of the setups the guys are using in the internet and i found what works best is to use 50k in front and 10k in the rear. So i was not so much off from what the average setup is.
Also after checking some setup guides it says that increasing the viscosity in the rear diff it will decrease the traction also.
i was thinking maybe the shock and springs i have used are not good for this car..
i really can not find where the problem is..
i also own some revo springs which i havent used yet but i saw a few people that have used them..
as for my ride height and droop i did change them when i was in the track with no results.
any ideas guys?
do you think i need to buy the gt shocks and springs in order for the car to work?
do you think is chassis too stiff as it is the wc one for buggy?
my ride height and droop?
my diff oils?
my shocks and springs?
tires?
everything together?
thanks a lot..
I had an mp777 almost wc that i have converted to gt.
The center diff is still one gear 46t and i have put 100 000 diff oil from ofna and for cluthbell i have used 18t.
for the front diff i have use 50 000 diff oil and for the rear 7 000.
For shocks i have used the front mp9 ones with the losi high rate springs.
The stabilizers are the ones that came with the buggy.
As for ride height and droop i have not measured it for the moment to tell you and i dont have it near me now as i am at work.
Tires i have used some grp on road gt tires which i bough new a few years ago.
I went to the track to run the car and i can not tell how bad it spin out.
It seemed that the front end will push the rear end too much..
I couldnt run a lap without spining.
Then i gave it to the fastest guy in the track to run it and he could not do a lap without spinning also. He told me that he thinks that my rear diff oil is not too hard and he told me i must use much higher diff oil viscosity generally for front and rear.
I have checked some of the setups the guys are using in the internet and i found what works best is to use 50k in front and 10k in the rear. So i was not so much off from what the average setup is.
Also after checking some setup guides it says that increasing the viscosity in the rear diff it will decrease the traction also.
i was thinking maybe the shock and springs i have used are not good for this car..
i really can not find where the problem is..
i also own some revo springs which i havent used yet but i saw a few people that have used them..
as for my ride height and droop i did change them when i was in the track with no results.
any ideas guys?
do you think i need to buy the gt shocks and springs in order for the car to work?
do you think is chassis too stiff as it is the wc one for buggy?
my ride height and droop?
my diff oils?
my shocks and springs?
tires?
everything together?
thanks a lot..
#417
Lots of questions, not so easy to resolve with remote diagnosis.
First thing to look at from my point of view are the tires. If they are already a few years old the grip might have been gone in between. Shorthand solution will be put the most used ones on the front. Better buy new soft ones, softes you can get on the rear, little harder on the back.
Buggy springs and sway bars are usually on the soft side, so the car may show alot of roll making it loose grip on the rear. Two actions are recommended if so, first use a harder stab in the back (3 mm), second try harder springs.
Ride height should be around 10 mm, little less in the front.
Good luck.
First thing to look at from my point of view are the tires. If they are already a few years old the grip might have been gone in between. Shorthand solution will be put the most used ones on the front. Better buy new soft ones, softes you can get on the rear, little harder on the back.
Buggy springs and sway bars are usually on the soft side, so the car may show alot of roll making it loose grip on the rear. Two actions are recommended if so, first use a harder stab in the back (3 mm), second try harder springs.
Ride height should be around 10 mm, little less in the front.
Good luck.
#418
C@T thanks for your reply..
Today when i went home i have found that the bearings in the rear hubs have a lot of play.
I did not had new plastic ones but i have mp9 aluminium ones..
but in order for the mp9 ones to fit i need to change the rear arm and stabilizer from the mp9..
i did it for one side and i notices that the camber angle changes a lot..i have not compared how different it is from the mp777 but the mp777 arm has a kick up where the hub is located..i suspect this kick up covers up the camber change?
Today when i went home i have found that the bearings in the rear hubs have a lot of play.
I did not had new plastic ones but i have mp9 aluminium ones..
but in order for the mp9 ones to fit i need to change the rear arm and stabilizer from the mp9..
i did it for one side and i notices that the camber angle changes a lot..i have not compared how different it is from the mp777 but the mp777 arm has a kick up where the hub is located..i suspect this kick up covers up the camber change?
#419
Asume you did try to put somekind of basic setup in.
I would start with -2° of camber all around.
Rear tow in 3°.
Front 1° in or out, both should work.
Caster could be a problem. Buggys usually have 12° to 16°. Thats too much for an onroad car with it flat surface tires. Caster will make the steering very aggressive.
You might look for 10° caster blocks if available.
I would start with -2° of camber all around.
Rear tow in 3°.
Front 1° in or out, both should work.
Caster could be a problem. Buggys usually have 12° to 16°. Thats too much for an onroad car with it flat surface tires. Caster will make the steering very aggressive.
You might look for 10° caster blocks if available.
#420
With a single speed center, you need to lock it up. Diff putty works great . raise the rear roll center and make sure you use a front type shock on the rear . You may have to change the shock tower to lower it. This should help the loose problem. Get some Sweep 45 or 50 shore tires.