Kyosho Inferno GT, GT2 Race Spec

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  • Quote: LOL! For sure. I think we'll start to see it around August/September.
    Okay, dusting off the R246 tomorrow after our local race day. I can get the GT2 back into the 'stable' and learn to get that set up, like you say.

    OOOH that Ceptor is sweet.......
  • The Ceptor looks SWEET! It's not a licensed body, but then again it still looks like a realistic GT car.
  • That Ceptor bears a resemblance to the Mclaren f1, hope it performs better than other similarly styled bodies used in 1/10 scale. I never seemed to get those to work on 1/10, but then again the gt2 is a very different machine.
  • i have a gt1 for years now, iv maybe bashed it 3 times...still has the crap trans so if i decide to race it ill have to upgrade that as well as the diff and brake pad ect....

    my one real hatred for these cars is the philips head wood screw hardware! whats up with that still????
  • LOL! It sounds like you need a new hobby if you "hate" anything because of the screws that hold it together.
  • Steve,

    Will the composite front torq rod from the race spec chassis fit the r246 chassis? id like to get rid of the metal one that came with my gt2.

  • Vex, I'll have to check that out. I'm using the big torque rod from the ST-RR, but would probably like to try the composite one from the Race Spec. I'll let you know what I find.
  • Quote: Just wanted to give you a sneak peek at the next body style that will be available on the GT2 RS for both nitro and brushless versions. It's called the Ceptor, and it's our first unlicensed body for the GT2 series. It's sleek and it's simple, but most importantly, it's inexpensive compared to the licensed bodies. The detailed, licensed bodies are still the overwhelming preference, but enough of you asked for a less expensive alternative, and Kyosho made it.

    That's great news! I must say thought that the R8 body has ridiculous steering...I ran it yesterday at FBF in Brooklyn. It's expensive (clear body=$80), but much more aggressive than the Alpha R-1 body I was running.

    Any chance Kyosho will add additional pinion/spur gears for a tad more top end for us on-road guys?
  • hey guys, new to this site but Ive been in rc cars my whole life. My late father purchased a GT and I purchased a GT2 Audi a couple years back. Me and my buddy are dusting them off and getting them runnig again.

    I own a 07 GT500 and he has an EVO and I was wondering if you guys knew of a supplier that sold bodies that would resemble our cars instead of the few that are offered through Kyosho??

    Also What clutche setups are you all running, Im so tired of breaking springs in my stock one!!!!

    Thanks for any input you have
  • VW - glad to hear that you like it, and good to know that it's working for you. I've already tested some additional pinion gears that should be available some time soon, and I've asked about some additional spur gears as well. As an option, you can also use the VS058 clutch bell, which accepts all of the Evolva pinion gears.

    Jeffrey - I'm not aware of anyone that makes those bodies for this scale at the time. Licensing being what it is, it's no longer as simple as just making the body anymore. But, both are good suggestions for anyone that's in the body business. As for the clutch, you're probably still running the stock hardware that came with the original GT, which is a two-shoe aluminum clutch. the newer cars have moved on to three-shoe clutches, which are much more adjustable and durable. To use a three shoe clutch, you might need to change the flywheel and some other components. If you can take a picture of the engine so I can see the flywheel (it doesn't have to be out of the car) I can gather up some spare parts from around here and help you get it converted.
  • Quote: VW - glad to hear that you like it, and good to know that it's working for you. I've already tested some additional pinion gears that should be available some time soon, and I've asked about some additional spur gears as well. As an option, you can also use the VS058 clutch bell, which accepts all of the Evolva pinion gears.

    what pinions would you recommend with the stock 46/43T spurs using the vs058 bell? I believe the stock pinions are 16/19T. If I use an evolva 20T for the second pinion, should I up 1st to 17T?

    Thanks in advance.
  • Quote:

    You should give the long wheelbase a shot - it' handles better. Some make the mistake of assuming that the longer wheelbase doesn't turn as well because of the wheelbase, but we've tested it, and the long car is faster everywhere on any track. The extra wheelbase is added all to the rear of the car. This puts more weight on the front end because, even though the gear on the chassis didn't move, the wheelbase was lengthened at the rear. That puts more weight on the front end and viola,... a longer wheelbase car turns inside a short wheelbase car. I'm actually getting ready to try a 380mm chassis. That's typical of the chassis used on current racing trucks and I'm sure it will work even better than the 360mm car, no less the short car. Once you drive a dialed long car, you'll never go back.

    I just built my first GT1 to race this winter, so far I have raced it twice. I built up a short chassis since everyone locally said the long chassis doesnt turn as well, and our 2 local track are relatively small for a GT.

    I was really thinking about picking up a Race Spec with the Audi body but most are saying it will not turn, so I was starting to look at trying another brand.

    Is there a particular set-up that helps the long chassis turn? I would like to stck with Kyosho since I already have spare parts.
  • SteveP, are they releasing a brushless GT2 at that time ?. Any rear shot of the new Ceptor Body ?. Thanks.
  • I just ordere the evolva style race two speed and I'll be putting one of my buggy .21s in to do some light racing. Will a Losi 8 clutch set up work???
  • VW - The car comes with 15/18T pinion gears. After testing newer gears that are taller than the stock gears, I'm pretty sure you want to gear down instead of up with a high-revving on-road motor, or at least run with the stock gears. You don't HAVE to keep a 3T split between first and second gears. You can cheat 1T on the clutch and get away with it.

    Utah, I'm working on a set-up sheet for the car so it will be easier to share this information. drop the upper links on the shock towers front and rear, and with the TRW105 shocks I'm running the optional silver springs in the front and black in the rear, with 1200 shock oil in the front and 1000 in the rear. The diffs are 30K front and 3k rear. I also run anti-roll bars but the thickness depends on the bite.

    Vision - yes, a brushless version will also be available. I'll post up some rear shots a little later.

    66 - I imagine it would work, but I've never tried it so I can't say for sure.

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