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Old 07-11-2012, 10:30 AM   #226
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Use 3x16, no more problem
Kyosho makes 1-S33015H, which is a high-quality 3x15mm hex screw if you want to go for the long ones. I think it's overkill and never had the 3x10mm machine screws EVER back out, but there's no wrong answer here. Do whatever is the most comfortable.
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Old 07-11-2012, 07:18 PM   #227
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Default diff case screws

This is the screw that I am now using to hold the diff together. Ever since changing from self tapping screw to this machine screw I have had no diff problems. This is a 3x12 screw that I got from Ace Hardware.

Lee
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Old 07-11-2012, 07:56 PM   #228
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does anyone know of a inferno gt2/gt screw set other than the ones made by rc screwz? those things are junk.
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Old 07-11-2012, 10:09 PM   #229
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does anyone know of a inferno gt2/gt screw set other than the ones made by rc screwz? those things are junk.
Chris these are good. MP777 kit has 98% of what u need

http://www.tonysscrews.com/product.s...&categoryId=61
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Old 07-13-2012, 09:38 PM   #230
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Steve,

I haven't had the same problem as everyone else as far as the self-tapping diff screws back out. However, I try to make sure that I don't over-fill the diff with oil while I am building it. I also do one more thing that many others don't do: I use automotive gasket sealer on my diffs when putting them together. I coat the rim of the diff housing with a good coat of sealant and stick the diff gasket on it. Then I coat the topside of the gasket with sealant as well. This also means that some sealant goes into the screw holes while doing this. Once I put the screws in, I wipe the excess sealant that comes out of the screw holes, let the diff set 24 hrs with the screw side up (to let the sealant cure). No diff oil leaks or screws backing out thus far for me.
Thanks guys...I went with the machine screws...definite arm pump!
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Old 07-13-2012, 09:42 PM   #231
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Chris these are good. MP777 kit has 98% of what u need

http://www.tonysscrews.com/product.s...&categoryId=61

Thanks leon!! will be picking these up soon!
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Old 07-17-2012, 11:52 PM   #232
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Default Help

Could anyone recommend a starter (bump) box for a GT2? I got this other thing for a friend of mine which doesn't work all that great, need something new and preferably one that either comes with a lipo or is lipo compatible. Many thanx....
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Old 07-18-2012, 05:51 AM   #233
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Could anyone recommend a starter (bump) box for a GT2? I got this other thing for a friend of mine which doesn't work all that great, need something new and preferably one that either comes with a lipo or is lipo compatible. Many thanx....
Any quality off road starter box will work fine - I use an old purple Mugen box that has been modded with some older LiPo packs and a pair of THESE motors and haven't found ANYTHING that this combination won't turn over. The only caution I would offer in a set up like this is that the switch and wiring is NOT designed for the type of current draw that these motors make - so start in short bursts, not in long grinds!

I prefer the dual motor boxes simply because they have a bunch more torque which helps in the start up of new engines!

OH, and number 1 starter box tip - take extra time fitting your car to the box so that when you 'toss' it on the box in a hurry to restart after a flame out it hits the 'sweet spot' every time.

Over the years I've observed too many people having a miserable race day due to an ill fitting &/or DEAD starter box; a bit of extra time in this area really pays off!
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Old 07-18-2012, 05:59 AM   #234
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Could anyone recommend a starter (bump) box for a GT2? I got this other thing for a friend of mine which doesn't work all that great, need something new and preferably one that either comes with a lipo or is lipo compatible. Many thanx....
Take a look at the Kyosho starter box part #36209. The flywheel can be oriented for either an off-road or an on-road car.

One of my customers stated that when a lipo battery is used in this box it is powerful enough to start a small block Chevrolet engine!

Lee
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Old 07-18-2012, 08:45 AM   #235
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Ofna chrome top. Been using one forever now. Only downside is it's a TANK! But it'll have no problem turning over any engine. I've done lipo's but went back to a 12V gel cell. I'm lazy and love that I only need to charge that gel cell once a month lol
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Old 07-19-2012, 12:27 AM   #236
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Default Hey

Thanx for the posts, guys...I'll have a look at those tomorrow and see what costs what and how fast they can ship the thing and maybe get something going over here......
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Old 07-19-2012, 07:21 AM   #237
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Honestly the Ofna OFN10247 is probably the best deal around for a bump box. They have a street price of $100, and come loaded with a 12V gell cell and a charger. If it struggles to start a new engine, just loosen the glow plug a tad, or pre heat it. Plus that box is light to carry around.
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Old 07-19-2012, 08:21 AM   #238
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Honestly the Ofna OFN10247 is probably the best deal around for a bump box. They have a street price of $100, and come loaded with a 12V gell cell and a charger. If it struggles to start a new engine, just loosen the glow plug a tad, or pre heat it. Plus that box is light to carry around.
There is good and bad to everything.

In the case of the gel cell the good is that it is high capacity and doesn't have to be charged as often as other starter box batteries. The bad is that it is lower voltage (12v) which definitely reduces the torque and flywheel speed that the starter motor makes. I always had to loosen or remove my glow plug and spin the engine for 10 or 20 seconds in order to get my seasoned engines to spin fast engouth to start the first time they were started each trip to the track. Gel Cells are also heavy.

Nicads and lipos have over 14 volts which results in a lot more torque and they eliminate the need to have to loosen the glow plug on new engines or seasoned engines that are started. They are also light but require charging more often and the lipos require monitoring when charging.

My $0.02 worth.

Lee
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Old 07-19-2012, 08:23 AM   #239
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There is good and bad to everything.

In the case of the gel cell the good is that it is high capacity and doesn't have to be charged as often as other starter box batteries. The bad is that it is lower voltage (12v) which definitely reduces the torque and flywheel speed that the starter motor makes. I always had to loosen or remove my glow plug and spin the engine for 10 or 20 seconds in order to get my seasoned engines to spin fast engouth to start the first time they were started each trip to the track. Gel Cells are also heavy.

Nicads and lipos have over 14 volts which results in a lot more torque and they eliminate the need to have to loosen the glow plug on new engines or seasoned engines that are started. They are also light but require charging more often and the lipos require monitoring when charging.

My $0.02 worth.

Lee
Yeah, I've tried all the batteries, on multiple boxes. I just like the gel cell because it's one less thing I have to think about charging. But the Ofna Chrome top has such a monster of a motor in it that it does good with any battery in it.
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Old 07-19-2012, 12:10 PM   #240
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Guys does the LRP .28 fit directly to the new GT 2rs, does it need modifications, can i use the same cltch bell and what about the stock pipe for this motor, anyone have this in there car that can give me some help please Thanks, just looking to use this motor until i figure out what .21 i want to get.
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