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Old 05-03-2012, 07:56 PM   #1
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Default NTC3 Light In The Rear

I recently bought a used NTC3, and I can not get the car to go streight. As soon as I hit the throttle the car goes right or left and spin in circles. I have tried to "set it up" by making sure that both tires leave the ground simultaneously when lifted in the front and rear centers. The chassis is in good shape (carbon fiber) so I can't figure it out. Can anyone help me with this? If I turn the car left or right at low speed the rear end will slide around as if it's on ice!! What is causing this and what can I do to correct it?

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Old 05-03-2012, 08:00 PM   #2
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I recently bought a used NTC3, and I can not get the car to go streight. As soon as I hit the throttle the car goes right or left and spin in circles. I have tried to "set it up" by making sure that both tires leave the ground simultaneously when lifted in the front and rear centers. The chassis is in good shape (carbon fiber) so I can't figure it out. Can anyone help me with this? If I turn the car left or right at low speed the rear end will slide around as if it's on ice!! What is causing this and what can I do to correct it?

Thanks,
Your drivetrain is binding, check you diffs and all the bearings.
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Old 05-03-2012, 08:23 PM   #3
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Your drivetrain is binding, check you diffs and all the bearings.
I put new wheel bearings in it today. Everything else is free. If I sat the car down on the least incline or decline it will roll from now on. I have foam tires on it.
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Old 05-03-2012, 10:05 PM   #4
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if it is not toed in enough in the rear it will be really loose exspecially on untreated asphalt min 1* per side if still washing out add another half degree and make sure the front dif is tight i generally run mine when using dif 1/4 to 1/2 from fully bottomed on the adjustment screw
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Old 05-04-2012, 12:20 AM   #5
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if it is not toed in enough in the rear it will be really loose exspecially on untreated asphalt min 1* per side if still washing out add another half degree and make sure the front dif is tight i generally run mine when using dif 1/4 to 1/2 from fully bottomed on the adjustment screw
Ok, good feed-back. I have tried rubber and foam tires and its the same, but I have not adjusted the toe. I'm thinking its in the shocks? The rear seems as if its on ice. Should the rear shocks be stiffer or softer than the front. As I previously stated, I know knowing about on-road cars, but this seems like a good platform for a "pro street" set up. The car has a modified 18TZ on it and when I get out a ways and hit it (whenever it stays straight) its quick and fast. I just want to get it to launch and track straight.
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Old 05-04-2012, 02:19 AM   #6
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there is a couple of things you can try that has helped me run more drop in the front this will allow the front to lift more and add more weight transfer to rear also with out know what springs you are running try and go 1 stiffer in the rear i know it sounds backwards but for some reason all my tc3 and ntc3 seam to work better square on the springs
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Old 05-04-2012, 09:27 AM   #7
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there is a couple of things you can try that has helped me run more drop in the front this will allow the front to lift more and add more weight transfer to rear also with out know what springs you are running try and go 1 stiffer in the rear i know it sounds backwards but for some reason all my tc3 and ntc3 seam to work better square on the springs
I posted this question on another forum and got one very good response. Your information has been helpful also, but I want to share what was posted on the other forum because I think it's very useful information for others. It is as follows:


Here are the steps to take in order of effectiveness...

Softer rear tires or foam tires all around (a good set of foam tires on a good surface will last as long as rubber due to less wheelspin). Don't be tempted to use softer foam (lower 'shore' rating) in the rear, this will just make them wear faster. Use the same or slightly harder shore on the rear. Also use the wider foam tires on the rear if you have clearance (28 or 30mm).

Lift the car off the ground, turn ONE of the rear wheels. The opposite wheel should turn in the opposite direction with little resistance. If it appears to be locked (both wheels turn in the same direction), then this is no doubt the problem, look at the rear diff to determine what the problem could be. If using ball diffs, loosen them, if using gear diffs, check the internal gears or oils used inside.

Increase rear toe-in, it is normal to have as much as 3 degrees of toe in at the rear, but for a touring car, I would suggest starting at 2 degrees on each wheel and work from there. If the wheels are pretty much in line (parallel) then this is what is causing the problem.

Increase rear droop. Droop is most easily translated as the amount by which you can lift the rear of the car WITHOUT the rear wheels leaving the ground. Think of it as negative suspension travel. The bumpier the surface, the more of this you need. It is normally adjusted using grubscrews in the rear arms which contact the chassis, shortening suspension extension. Start by taking the screws out, or making sure they do not contact the chassis (full droop), and go from there. The right amount of droop is a tricky setting to get, but for stability you want as much as you can get.

Raise the ride height a little at the rear for more squat absorption. If the car is lower at the rear, then try making it level by only raising the rear a little.

Use softer springs in the rear shocks, or softer oil, or an extra hole in the rear shock pistons.

Put a stiffer anti roll bar on the front or stiffen the existing one (move the silver retainers along the ARB toward the center of the car). Anti roll bars affect traction at the OPPOSITE end of the car. A stiffer front gives more rear grip, a stiffer rear gives more front grip. Don't go too stiff though, this can have a dramatically detrimental effect on the handling.

Reduce your toe out at the front a little. Toe out is necessary at the front to get good turn-in, but more toe out makes the car turn more aggressively, encouraging the rear to step out.

Lastly, try to avoid wheelspin.

Hope that helps. Once again let me stress that droop is very important to understand and can make a HUGE difference to rear traction, it is the most overlooked setting in my experience.

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Old 05-04-2012, 09:30 AM   #8
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Rear diff probably too tight, a Car tweaked.... The ntc3 has that tweak problem, but I sort of solved it by running 40shore foam Tires on the left side, anc 37shore foams on the right side...... Make sure your front diff is tight, and your Tires are shimmed properly. Also reduce your steering rack play, and make sure nothing from the steering system is rubbing the rotating shaft parts..... The ntc3 spool is better than the diff up front, specially when you can put losi lcd's (#3344) to stop chatter, without any Mods at all... The spool will make your Car accelerate straighter and faster too....
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Old 05-04-2012, 09:41 AM   #9
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Also, since you have a .18 engine in there, you need a spool upfront, or else you are killing your diffs. How are your steering rack ballcups ? Rpm make good quality ones...
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Old 05-04-2012, 10:52 AM   #10
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Rear diff probably too tight, a Car tweaked.... The ntc3 has that tweak problem, but I sort of solved it by running 40shore foam Tires on the left side, anc 37shore foams on the right side...... Make sure your front diff is tight, and your Tires are shimmed properly. Also reduce your steering rack play, and make sure nothing from the steering system is rubbing the rotating shaft parts..... The ntc3 spool is better than the diff up front, specially when you can put losi lcd's (#3344) to stop chatter, without any Mods at all... The spool will make your Car accelerate straighter and faster too....
It came with a spool, so I will put that in and see how it reacts. I set the car up per the directions offered by Foxy (the bold post a few posts back) and the car is straight a an arrow and does everything right. Thanks though, and I will put that spool in there.
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Old 05-04-2012, 11:01 AM   #11
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Don't forget the losi lcd drives #3344 because you will get dangerous chatter with the regular cvd's ! After that , the Car should be a bullet !
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Old 05-04-2012, 06:08 PM   #12
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plus shaft driven car torque steer
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