meno1103

iTrader: (6)

Yeah that's idling a few k's too high lol. The clutch is most likely fine, any normal clutch would definitely be engaged at that rpm.

Only lean the needle out if reducing the carb gap too. With the way it's currently running, leaning out the low speed needle alone would only make matters worse.

But before touching the needles: The gap in the carb should be about 1mm open at neutral. You may want to double check that the throttle linkage is set so that it is only open that much at neutral. If you can, post a pic showing the carb with the filter removed, and the complete servo/linkage setup. Aim it down a bit to get a look inside the carb opening and have the car and remote on and on neutral.

hayabusafmw

iTrader: (5)

I love this car so much

it's the one car that got me into the hobby a while back with the rs4-2

I have to say i believe with all the years that it's been around and still selling it might be the best car ever


Cheap parts , easy to work with , crazy performance , nice scale look , a lot of bodies to choose from ,

Adjustements made easy

what can you ask for more

Limeaway

@meno1103

I apologize for the poor lighting, but here are those pictures you asked me to post. I've made slight adjustments again to my idle (which I will test tomorrow hopefully). But after looking at these pictures, it looks as if my idle gap is pretty big... the second picture I attached is my carb at full brake. And obviously the third is my throttle linkage.

meno1103

iTrader: (6)

Ok, that's what I was hoping for, a relatively simple fix.

Between the first two pics, you can see that the carb opening is smaller on the second than on the first. That opening should remain the same from neutral to full brake on the remote (from full brake to neutral, it should stay the same size, smallest size, which is determined by the idle screw).

What you want to do here is set up the servo/linkage to pull the carb lever back a little so that it won't be pulled back any more when you hit the brakes.

Note: don't adjust the idle screw yet, it seems to be close to ideal based on the second pic.

Start off by making sure that the throttle trim on the remote is set to zero.
One quick possible fix is to remove the screw holding the servo horn down, remove the servo horn, hold the carb lever to closed position with one hand, and try to place the servo horn back on without letting it open the carb. You will probably notice you can't get it set perfectly without moving the carb due to the splines on the servo, if so, just get it as close as possible.
While messing with the horn, have the remote and car on (this way the servo stays at neutral position)

After setting the horn, you can fine tune the linkage by popping off the plastic ball cup on the carb and turning the ball cup clockwise to 'shorten' the linkage, and counter-clockwise to 'lengthen'.

After all that is set, hopefully the engine idles as it should, without rolling the car when placed on the ground. As I said before, the idle screw seems set pretty close, but the opening may be too small, so if you can't get it started or if the motor dies out while braking, just open it a little bit (screw-in the screw).

Also, if at any time the brake linkage gets in the way, you can just loosen it by turning the knurled plastic piece at the end (behind the rubber tubing) out. Then, after setting the carb/throttle, tightening it back on. Just remember to leave a little slack on the brakes.

Hope all this isn't confusing, and that it solves your problem! Keep us posted.

Limeaway

So I think I've got the throttle linkage set up correctly now. Even at full brake the carb stays at the same position as idle, as you suggested. I also "shortened" the brake linkage a bit so that the servo can't over rotate and pull the carb too far back (if that makes sense). I wanted to fire up the engine, but I had to head out for class as soon as I finished adjusting the links. I'll likely test it out on Friday or sometimes this weekend. It's dead week right now and I've got finals this Mon/Tues

#ijustwanttodrivemycar

Appreciate the help meno!

donnie707

anyone know the easiest way to take out the 2 speed tranny? my car wont shift and my set screw is stripped so i cant adjust it. this really sucks. i was having such a blast with it, running it everyday.....still runs but i NEED to hear that 2 speed shift. argh!

RogerDee

Oh the memories, I have a Racer 2. Front one ways, carbon deck, Ofna 2 spd. 13/19, Modded Picco 3 port .12 It still needs a rear block from the electric RS4 for more rear toe, with that power and the one ways, the rear always was loose..

Limeaway

This week's project

Picked up the Hankook 350z body yesterday. Bought a set of lexan scissors and a reamer as well. It was my first time ever cutting a body, and what a total pain in the arse it was! Lol. Still need to cut a hole for the engine head and a front windshield vent. Not looking forward to cutting that engine head hole lol.

bhruifafn

iTrader: (2)

Hey guys, new here. I want some bigger shocks for my rs4 3 evo. I need a bit more ride height. Any advice???

jeanethics

iTrader: (3)

Limeaway- Nice body can't wait to see what it looks like with paint. For the engine hole I usually use the reamer and make puncture in the circular shape. It works for me.
Looks awesome.

Will post pictures of mine soon.