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Old 05-06-2012, 03:26 AM   #16
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So does anyone here have extra exhaust manifold gaskets? If so, it'd be awesome if you could make some sort of template of one... I'm better off just buying some gasket paper at the auto shop and cutting some up on my own. It'd just be a lot easier if I had some sort of base to follow.

It's just getting ridiculous how long it's taking HPI to restock and send out gaskets (and diff casings). I placed this order request at the lhs on 4/16! Normally parts come in after about two days at Norcal Hobbies.

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Old 05-06-2012, 07:25 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Limeaway View Post
So does anyone here have extra exhaust manifold gaskets? If so, it'd be awesome if you could make some sort of template of one... I'm better off just buying some gasket paper at the auto shop and cutting some up on my own. It'd just be a lot easier if I had some sort of base to follow.

It's just getting ridiculous how long it's taking HPI to restock and send out gaskets (and diff casings). I placed this order request at the lhs on 4/16! Normally parts come in after about two days at Norcal Hobbies.

You can use the exhaust manifold as a template and cut your own.
Get some stencil ink and use the manilold flange to mark the gasket
material. Use a sharp exacto blade to cut the gasket material. Start
with the exhaust port hole in the center of the new gasket first, then
the bolt holes and the outer edge of the gasket last. These little
gaskets take some patience to cut out, so take your time and
be carefull not to slice your fingers up with that sharp blade.
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Old 05-06-2012, 11:00 AM   #18
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Tower Hobbies. Search part number LXJL16. It is the exact same gasket made by traxxas. I picked up a few a week or so ago.
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Old 05-06-2012, 08:04 PM   #19
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You could go to the auto store and buy a tube of RTV and make your own gasket.

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Old 05-07-2012, 07:32 PM   #20
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HPWhy?!
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Old 05-07-2012, 09:17 PM   #21
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You could go to the auto store and buy a tube of RTV and make your own gasket.

X
That's what I do, perfect seal every time!
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Old 05-08-2012, 06:48 AM   #22
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HPWhy?!
Because I bought it about 10 years ago, and enjoy parking lot bashing, and have no plans on spending money on a new car to race, and I have a lot of fun with it, and... I could go on and on. Basically not everyone cares about having the latest & greatest.
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Old 05-08-2012, 09:22 AM   #23
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HPWhy?!
whats with the hate on hpi? its a great entry level car. not everyone wants to spend 500-1000 bucks on a rolling chassis(no engine, no radio or servos etc etc). and it has tons of aftermarket parts for it so you can modify as you please. if you dont like hpi....dont come into this thread
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Old 05-08-2012, 01:05 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by donnie707 View Post
whats with the hate on hpi? its a great entry level car. not everyone wants to spend 500-1000 bucks on a rolling chassis(no engine, no radio or servos etc etc). and it has tons of aftermarket parts for it so you can modify as you please. if you dont like hpi....dont come into this thread
I looked at his previous posts, and it looks like he was just trying to up his post count so he could post url's.
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Old 05-12-2012, 04:54 AM   #25
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Definitely going to try to break in the engine today!

Finally got a hold of some gaskets (Associated #7734). Seriously was the only set of gaskets at the LHS, lol. Fit perfectly, and I also sandwiched it between some RTV silicone. I was gonna go ahead and buy some gasket paper along with the RTV, but I guess Pep Boys (at least in my area) doesn't carry any. I'm more than positive Autozone has some. I also still need 2 sets of the diff casing, but I'll survive without for now. I need them because for some reason all the screws on both diffs are pretty much stripped. I just took a dremel and cut a notch on the screw heads so I could use a flat head.

Putting the car back together made me realize how much slop there was between the outdrives and dogbones, particularly in the front half of the chassis. 1 o-ring in the outdrive cup (as hpi suggests) is definitely NOT enough to remove the play from the front end dogbones. Feels like they could fall out during heavy driving/turning! Will hit the lhs up again soon to buy some of those o-rings.

Will have a video soon! And yes, it's a one-speed
Attached Thumbnails
Nitro rs4-3 rebuild-2012-05-12-03.08.59_resized.jpg   Nitro rs4-3 rebuild-2012-05-12-03.16.33_resized.jpg  

Last edited by Limeaway; 05-12-2012 at 05:04 AM.
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Old 05-12-2012, 07:50 PM   #26
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Sorry double post.

Fired up the engine not too long ago, EXTREMELY frustrating. Had no problem starting, but getting the idle to actually be IDLE, lol. Soon as the engine starts the car starts creeping, wheels are spinning pretty fast (considering I'm not putting any throttle). I'm more than positive the idle is set correctly, so I'm thinking its my clutch engaging early?

Anyone have experience with the HPI A885 clutch? I didn't cut any clutch material off of it, thinking that's what I have to do?
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Old 05-12-2012, 08:22 PM   #27
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Cutting the clutch will make it engage at a higher RPM, but I don't think that is your problem. I have run that clutch without cutting it and have had no issues. If you think the idle is set right and if the car is moving only a little bit, I would just drive it around a bit. Once the clutch gets a broken in a little maybe the car will stop moving at idle.

Also, check to make sure you have it facing the right direction. Here is a link to the instructions form HPI.

http://www.hpiracing.com/graphics/instr/a885.jpg


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Old 05-12-2012, 08:34 PM   #28
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Cutting the clutch will make it engage at a higher RPM, but I don't think that is your problem. I have run that clutch without cutting it and have had no issues. If you think the idle is set right and if the car is moving only a little bit, I would just drive it around a bit. Once the clutch gets a broken in a little maybe the car will stop moving at idle.

Also, check to make sure you have it facing the right direction. Here is a link to the instructions form HPI.




X
*****EDIT******
Clutch has worn in a bit, doesnt move too much at idle anymore. Good thing I didn't cut any clutch off, lol.

***************

The car moves at a pretty fast rate without me hitting the throttle at all. Clutch bell is spinning pretty fast as well. Ill toy with the idle a bit more. I'm pretty sure I set the clutch correctly, but ill check again, wont hurt. Thanks for the tips, ill check in again in a bit.

Last edited by Limeaway; 05-12-2012 at 09:49 PM.
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Old 05-13-2012, 03:33 AM   #29
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I feel your pain, properly setting up the clutch engagement/idle on a car is the single thing that erks me on my nitros. I've had that issue with a couple of cars, and found I had the carb too open and the low end set too rich (to attempt to bring down the rpms). You could try closing the carb some (idle screw) and leaning the low end a bit if it still walks off after a couple of tanks. Clutch shoes should be worn down enough after 3-4 tanks of break-in on motor, especially if you adhere to the instructions of varying the rpms of the engine constantly during your first few tanks.
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Old 05-13-2012, 10:44 PM   #30
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http: //youtu. be/n6Co_D7QUss
(My post count isn't high enough to post links yet, sorry. Just remove the spaces between)

So that's my "idle", lol. Back to square one. I've got the idle screw set pretty much as low as it can be. Back the screw out any more and the car dies upon braking.

@meno1103 I will definitely try your suggestion of leaning the lsn, hopefully that will be the final solution. Anyone else have input?
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