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Old 07-02-2002, 05:06 AM   #1
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Thumbs down OS TR(P) Troubles

Grrr...

I have already put thru about 1/2 dozen rich tanks. Started the engine with no problems.

Put the wheels on, reading to go on-road, and slowly lean the motor out, and now i can't get the bloody thing started.

The flywheel seems just that little bit to tight for the GS starter box to kick it over. Actually, i even find it pretty hard to turn the flywheel over by hand. However, when i untighten the glow plug 1/2 a turn, the flywheel frees up a little, but the motor won't start up.

Anyone have any idea on where to go from here?

Many thanks
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Old 07-02-2002, 06:41 AM   #2
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Default Re: OS TR(P) Troubles

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Originally posted by Glenn
Grrr...

I have already put thru about 1/2 dozen rich tanks. Started the engine with no problems.

Put the wheels on, reading to go on-road, and slowly lean the motor out, and now i can't get the bloody thing started.

The flywheel seems just that little bit to tight for the GS starter box to kick it over. Actually, i even find it pretty hard to turn the flywheel over by hand. However, when i untighten the glow plug 1/2 a turn, the flywheel frees up a little, but the motor won't start up.

Anyone have any idea on where to go from here?

Many thanks
hum i had the flywheel problem with that same motor in my reflex i just shimed it and it worked just fine. that might be your hole problem. I would try that first. when you remove the flywheel inspect it and the engine crankcase and makr sure that that is the problem then while the engine is out remove the back plate and put a thin coat of permatex silicone gasket maker (ultra blue) on it's mating surfaces then reinstall the back plate and remove the carb take a note of your carb needles settings are at then remove the needles make sure to clean the carb and needles with motor spray then put a dab of permatex on each needle and idle screw and the base of the body of the carb. reinstall the carb and engine and try that out. i had the same problems with mine also make sure that the rear header gasket is in good condition and has no cracks, clean it put a but of sealer on the block where the header gasket goes then reinstall the gasket and you should be on your way.
if you still have a problem then i will check my needle settings and post them but no 2 motors are alike and my motor is a mod so it might no even be close
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Old 07-02-2002, 01:03 PM   #3
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mine is a zac project copy
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Old 07-03-2002, 12:37 AM   #4
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can anyone suggest anything else prior to me doing what the suggestion given above says to do?

i'm not all that up to speed with pulling the engines apart, and playing around with them too much.

ANY HELP would be appreciated.
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Old 07-03-2002, 01:31 AM   #5
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welll u could try using 2 glow plug washers but it might not be the best thing to solve the problem

so where abouts in sydney did u buy ur motor from and how much coz i want a new engine soon coz i want to also get a ntc3 bump start
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Old 07-11-2002, 04:35 PM   #6
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Some progression

I loosened the glow plug, and the motor seemed to be turning over. Then, all of a sudden, only my flywheel was spinning, and the motor's piston didn't seem to be moving. The flywheel in other words, was free spinning.

So i took the motor off, having to dremel one of the screws, and saw that, after taking the pinions off etc, that there was heaps of oil or fuel buildup under the flywheel and all over the front crankshaft bearing.

Is some seal or something broken on the bearing?

Where should i go from here?

Is the reason the flywheel come loose because the flywheel retaining nut wasn't loktited? Do you guys loctite that retaining nut?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 07-11-2002, 11:14 PM   #7
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Quote:
Originally posted by Glenn
Some progression

I loosened the glow plug, and the motor seemed to be turning over. Then, all of a sudden, only my flywheel was spinning, and the motor's piston didn't seem to be moving. The flywheel in other words, was free spinning.

So i took the motor off, having to dremel one of the screws, and saw that, after taking the pinions off etc, that there was heaps of oil or fuel buildup under the flywheel and all over the front crankshaft bearing.

Is some seal or something broken on the bearing?

Where should i go from here?

Is the reason the flywheel come loose because the flywheel retaining nut wasn't loktited? Do you guys loctite that retaining nut?now put a thin washer between the collet and the engine loctite it and you should be set

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 07-12-2002, 01:16 AM   #8
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Wink you're a great help nova, thanx

.
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Old 07-14-2002, 07:29 PM   #9
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I had the same problem with my cv-r in my GT. I didn't have a piston-locking tool, so i got the pilot shaft as tight as I could without one, but between the high compression of a new engine and not having the pilot shaft tight enough, the flywheel came loose and did not turn over the engine. Use a piston-locking tool, and tighten the pilot shaft as tight as possible without trying to kill it, or you can break the connecting rod or wristpin, and use loc-tite to keep it one there. Just barely loosen the glow plug to start it, and then re-tighten it, or heat up the crankcase with a hair-dryer (maybe a heat gun?) to loosen things up a bit. Hope that helps.
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Old 07-16-2002, 10:30 AM   #10
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The Problem you could be haveing is the fact that most O.S. engines are extremly tight. They Have a longer breakin period.
I have an TR and it Broke the Flywheel loose more than once upon break in. It also need to be run Hot. Around 270-300 for a while. LIke 5 -7 tanks. It runs great now.

O.S. engines are normally extremely tight upon break in.

Might be the problem. Why is spins over with out Glow plug in.
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Old 08-08-2002, 07:47 AM   #11
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I run a .12tr in my VoneR and the first time on the box it started right up. I have the high speed needle at about 1-3/4 turns out and the low speed at the factory setting, I am using an os A5 plug with trinity 30% platinum fuel. I have had zero problems with it.
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Old 08-10-2002, 08:53 AM   #12
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I have yet to hear anyone that is happy with their TR. 4 people around here tried them. 3 on road and one off road. None of them would run at less than 275 degrees without loading up. Plus they had reliability problems - which is something I have never experienced with any other OS engine. I think OS may need to rethink the engine. Since I don't know a lot about how engines are designed, I can't say what's wrong with it, but it seems that pretty much every post I read and every person I talk to are unhappy with this engine.
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Old 08-28-2002, 02:38 PM   #13
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I run TR on my GT4 between 240-275 in order to get the punch. Otherwise it's slow like grandma's car. When i run it around that temp. range, i have no problem keeping up with mt 12s and novarossis. I've hade 1 1/2 gallon through it, and still running strong. First i thought i might cut down the life of my engine bcuz of the temp. i'm running but i was wrong. Still having good punch after each corner with this TR..sweet machine i tell you .
What 2Fast4U2 stated is right: O.S. engines are normally extremely tight upon break in. Good luck with you TR.

Later.
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