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Old 03-04-2012, 07:20 PM   #1
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Default Team Magic G4JR [Return to Racing]

I'm getting back into Nitro Touring Car racing this summer so I picked up the G4JR as a starter car and if nitro racing picks back up I'm going to upgrade.

Those of you that have or had a G4JR what are some parts I should have on hand and can you share any set-up tips? I have been informed that I should replace the screws.
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Old 03-04-2012, 10:23 PM   #2
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I'm getting back into Nitro Touring Car racing this summer so I picked up the G4JR as a starter car and if nitro racing picks back up I'm going to upgrade.

Those of you that have or had a G4JR what are some parts I should have on hand and can you share any set-up tips? I have been informed that I should replace the screws.
Hello

You could certainly get hex screws for top and bottom of the car. You might want to replace the bulkheads as the standard self tapping screws seem to loosen up the plastic and a machine thread screw has issues biting into the plastic afterwards.

I would carry spares for spurs and pinions for the clutch, and also suspension arms and hubs for front and rear.

Other uprades to consider would be WCE to give you more roll centre options and sways bars for front and rear.

Hope this helps
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Old 03-04-2012, 10:34 PM   #3
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I'm getting back into Nitro Touring Car racing this summer so I picked up the G4JR as a starter car and if nitro racing picks back up I'm going to upgrade.

Those of you that have or had a G4JR what are some parts I should have on hand and can you share any set-up tips? I have been informed that I should replace the screws.
I've never broken any parts except bending the suspension pins. Here is the setup I had on my car. Front Solid Axle, Kyosho 30,000 oil for rear diff, Much More 600 oil and Kyosho Gold Springs for front and rear shocks.
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Old 03-04-2012, 11:22 PM   #4
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If you don't have a solid diff for the front 100,000wt oil would be the go. Another niffty trick with the G4 is to increse the size of the hole in the shock piston (think 1.3mm) to get the shocks working better.

Do miss my G4

Enjoy
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Old 03-06-2012, 02:38 PM   #5
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Hello

Other uprades to consider would be WCE to give you more roll centre options and sways bars for front and rear.

Hope this helps
WEC?
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Old 03-06-2012, 03:32 PM   #6
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WEC?
The only real upgrades you want to consider.

Hex screws
Wide rear shock tower


Any more and you'd be better off asking Wolf Hobbies has a G4+ EVO available.
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Old 03-06-2012, 04:27 PM   #7
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The only real upgrades you want to consider.

Hex screws
Wide rear shock tower


Any more and you'd be better off asking Wolf Hobbies has a G4+ EVO available.
K14145 WC Upgrade which Blis is right is expensive ($200USD)

and agree with Blis that a G4+ Evo is a better option as it comes standard with the WC upgrade and you can then use your G4JR as spares etc.

I was looking at upgrading my G4S RTR and by the time i bought a UFO II Clutch ($120USD) and the ED Transmission upgrade i was at the price off the G4+ Evo.

Good to see some people posting and using Team Magic cars, they have some great products and learning to appreciate that a little more as i get older and wiser:P

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Old 03-07-2012, 05:01 AM   #8
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The only real upgrades you want to consider.

Hex screws
Wide rear shock tower


Any more and you'd be better off asking Wolf Hobbies has a G4+ EVO available.
Wide rear shock tower, have you been hiding things on me Harry? What difference? Extra hole for adjustment?

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Old 03-07-2012, 02:41 PM   #9
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Wide rear shock tower, have you been hiding things on me Harry? What difference? Extra hole for adjustment?

Andrew
Andrew, from the first G4 I owned I realised the shock tower's body posts were too narrow. The strongest point on the body shell for posts is directly inline with the window arches. The narrow tower allows the shell to bend down and the sides of the body shell tuck under and can cause a shell to get caught behind tyres.

the rear wide shock tower places the body posts where they should be.

Holding out on you.. nah.. I did the write up for TM on that product.
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Old 03-07-2012, 02:54 PM   #10
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I received my spare parts: belts, arms, gear diff to replace spool, steering block, rear hub, harden pins,2 speed dust cover.

Going to pick up servos this weekend, Savox 1257TG (2)
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Old 03-07-2012, 03:34 PM   #11
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Andrew, from the first G4 I owned I realised the shock tower's body posts were too narrow. The strongest point on the body shell for posts is directly inline with the window arches. The narrow tower allows the shell to bend down and the sides of the body shell tuck under and can cause a shell to get caught behind tyres.

the rear wide shock tower places the body posts where they should be.

Holding out on you.. nah.. I did the write up for TM on that product.
LOL... goes to show how much attention i give to TM promo speals etc

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Old 03-09-2012, 05:40 PM   #12
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Had the car on the track the car had a lot of wander the problem is the servo saver is too loose, I will tighten when I replace servos.
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Old 03-11-2012, 04:16 PM   #13
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The car handle great today track was a little dusty had to lift getting into the sweeper, the only adjustment I need to make is the 2 speed shift point.
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Old 03-12-2012, 08:09 AM   #14
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The car handle great today track was a little dusty had to lift getting into the sweeper, the only adjustment I need to make is the 2 speed shift point.
Good to hear your getting on well with your G4. They are a good car, infact I would go as far as to say, the car's better then most drivers can get out of it!

Drilling out the shock pistons to 1.2 or even 1.3mm is a good one to go with although better is to also countersink the holes at 1.1 or 1.2mm. With the wider side of the hole being on the compression or rebound which ever you would like and according to track condition

All the best. Going to be re-building my G4 soon ..... after all these years, I want to run it again

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Old 03-12-2012, 02:14 PM   #15
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Good to hear your getting on well with your G4. They are a good car, infact I would go as far as to say, the car's better then most drivers can get out of it!

Drilling out the shock pistons to 1.2 or even 1.3mm is a good one to go with although better is to also countersink the holes at 1.1 or 1.2mm. With the wider side of the hole being on the compression or rebound which ever you would like and according to track condition

All the best. Going to be re-building my G4 soon ..... after all these years, I want to run it again

BM
I'm going to pick-up some drill bits, I would to get a RS if nitro racing gains in popularity.

Which G4 are you re-building?
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