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Old 03-02-2012, 01:11 AM   #1
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Default G4Evo Clutch Tuning

Hi

I just got a G4Evo and am trying to setup the clutch. It bites really late!

Im trying to adjust the clutch bite, Im just not sure wether to turn the adjust bolt on the spring in or out (left or right) to engage the clutch earlier?

Thanks!
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Old 03-02-2012, 02:04 AM   #2
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Originally Posted by onlinegamesnz View Post
Hi

I just got a G4Evo and am trying to setup the clutch. It bites really late!

Im trying to adjust the clutch bite, Im just not sure wether to turn the adjust bolt on the spring in or out (left or right) to engage the clutch earlier?

Thanks!
Hi

You need to back the tension off the clutch spring, i usually only have one or two threads showing on my G4 clutches.

Blis (Harry) will be more helpful, also you could check out the Team Magic G4 thread on here as a heap of helpful information from over the years.

Hope this is helpful

Andrew
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Old 03-02-2012, 02:11 AM   #3
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Ok thanks.

So loosen the clutch spring for a faster bite?
I am in contact with Harry

Thanks for the help
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Old 03-02-2012, 02:25 AM   #4
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Ok thanks.

So loosen the clutch spring for a faster bite?
I am in contact with Harry

Thanks for the help
Backing off the tension will allow clutch to engage earlier and at lower RPM, this is better for low grip surfaces.

The tighter it is the later it engages and more savage which is better for high grip conditions and to give punch out of corners

Andrew
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Old 03-02-2012, 06:59 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by onlinegamesnz View Post
Hi

I just got a G4Evo and am trying to setup the clutch. It bites really late!

Im trying to adjust the clutch bite, Im just not sure wether to turn the adjust bolt on the spring in or out (left or right) to engage the clutch earlier?

Thanks!
Two things to consider..

Firstly, if the gap that the shoe has to throw is large, it has to throw further so needs more rpm and it will be smoother .The smaller the gap the less throw, and likely to bite harder. Too much gap and it will slip like hell. too little and you can bog down.

Second is the clutch spring, it's quite straight forward. More pressure on the plate and the more RPM need to push out the throws. Hence the more spring you put on, the less throw u can use. It's a balancing act.


**

Put your clutch together and tighten but without the bottom bearing.
Measure the "DIFFERENCE" between it pushed against the clutch and pushed hard back on the thrust bearing. <-THIS IS YOUR GAP
Account for a .2mm endplay for expansion, and your clutch gap should be around .6 -.7mm
Put back the bottom bearing and a gap between the bell is approx .4-.5mm <-[ You need to shim this out so the bearings can free spin ]
Tighten and ensure bell has free spin and hope you measured all ok!
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Old 03-04-2012, 02:23 PM   #6
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Hi, thanks for your replys

I have a new problem, on saturday i took the car to the track, and adjusted the 2speed to shift earlier

Next run after doing so, i stripped first gear clean off.

I also adjusted the clutch to bite (engage) earlier. But this has been fine for sometime when drive with first only. This only seemed to happen when i adjusted the 2speed.

I took the car home, where luckily i have a spare 1st gear, ad somethings still wrong, run it up and down the driveway a few times and i can see the new first gear showing signs of stripping again. So i stopped running it.

The gear is meshing well with very little play.

But it almost appears clutch related and it seems to br intemitttant. If accelerate fast off the mark, sometimes the engine just revs and the car goes nowhere, other times it takes off as normal. Ive never had this before.

I have a bout 1mm thread showing on the thread of the spring tensioner nut onthe clutch.

Thi is kinda hard to test as this is my last first gear.

Please help!!

Thanks
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Old 03-04-2012, 03:38 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by onlinegamesnz View Post
Hi, thanks for your replys

I have a new problem, on saturday i took the car to the track, and adjusted the 2speed to shift earlier

Next run after doing so, i stripped first gear clean off.

I also adjusted the clutch to bite (engage) earlier. But this has been fine for sometime when drive with first only. This only seemed to happen when i adjusted the 2speed.

I took the car home, where luckily i have a spare 1st gear, ad somethings still wrong, run it up and down the driveway a few times and i can see the new first gear showing signs of stripping again. So i stopped running it.

The gear is meshing well with very little play.

But it almost appears clutch related and it seems to br intemitttant. If accelerate fast off the mark, sometimes the engine just revs and the car goes nowhere, other times it takes off as normal. Ive never had this before.

I have a bout 1mm thread showing on the thread of the spring tensioner nut onthe clutch.

Thi is kinda hard to test as this is my last first gear.

Please help!!

Thanks
Either the clutch is throwing too far and the second pinion is hitting the first.. or you may have a slipping one way bearing. Inspect the oneway in the transmission housing, it shouldnt be oily and there's a specific oil we use for them.
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Old 03-04-2012, 06:25 PM   #8
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Check endplay of Clutch. Normal is 1mm. but can .05mm. Clutch part# K1215-6, ?Use reference of 3 turns. Increasing tension delays engagement, Decreasing tension earlier it engages. Hole in Clutch house part# 1215-7 use end of allen wrench to adjust by turning 1215-6 CW(increase), CCW Decrease. Hold engine flywheel to adjust.

Good Luck.
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Old 03-05-2012, 12:02 AM   #9
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Thanks for the help

Anyone happen to know where i can get parts for the G4Evo in new zealand? Or aus for a last resort

Cheers
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Old 03-05-2012, 12:39 AM   #10
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Thanks for the help

Anyone happen to know where i can get parts for the G4Evo in new zealand? Or aus for a last resort

Cheers
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/502107-G4...item27bfa15a12

http://stores.ebay.com.au/TM-Remote-...Cars-and-Parts
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Old 03-06-2012, 12:18 AM   #11
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Default UFOII

Hi

While we are talking about the KFactory UFO II Clutch, does any one thing it is worth while putting one on a G4S RTR with the ED Tranmission? Or just buy a G4JS and use the Hybrid clutch and then just swap radio tray over?

Andrew
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Old 03-06-2012, 02:27 AM   #12
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Hi

While we are talking about the KFactory UFO II Clutch, does any one thing it is worth while putting one on a G4S RTR with the ED Tranmission? Or just buy a G4JS and use the Hybrid clutch and then just swap radio tray over?

Andrew
Bundy they removed the ED transaxle with the disc system from the evo, I guess it was just too heavy. They went to an even lighter two pin for the disc brake
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Last edited by blis; 03-06-2012 at 02:27 AM. Reason: disc
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Old 03-06-2012, 03:14 AM   #13
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Bundy they removed the ED transaxle with the disc system from the evo, I guess it was just too heavy. They went to an even lighter two pin for the disc brake
Harry:

Your right they followed on with the plastic ED pullies from the G4RS 2008 and G4JS etc with the G4+ Evo.

Of late i have been running the 2 speed shaft and alloy pullies from the LE as brake disc is smalled and not an issue on the crank case.

Can see another G4 on my work bench soon with all this rain and not dry track time to try the H-K1 Evo

Catch up soon
Andrew
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Old 03-09-2012, 02:19 PM   #14
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What's the best way to set clutch gap?
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Old 03-09-2012, 02:34 PM   #15
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What's the best way to set clutch gap?
You remove the bottom bearing and re-assemble. The difference between the clutch pressed against the shoe and clutch pulled against the thrust bearing is the over all gap. Should be around .6mm

Then you replace the bottom bearing and shim out under it until there is a .1-.2mm end play to allow for the clutch to expand and not destroy your thrust bearing.
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