Byronf1

What temperature did you ran ? where did you buy them?

MantisWorx

iTrader: (28)

Ran the VS which were actually too soft. Will be available in a few weeks, anouncment soon!

Cilal

iTrader: (7)

The manual has always said to set the anti roll bar attachment/pivot ball at 35mm (bottom of arm to top of bracket). I've always done it as per manual. Is this to keep the roll bar horizontal when car is sitting flat? What would happen if I shortened the length of this to say 30mm? Or extended it?

dameetz

Whats the reason for the rear shox set up like this?

Julius

The effect of your change would be minimal. The manual length suggestion is indeed to have the bar horizontal and thus the maxumum amount of free movement in the pivot balls to prevent any binding. Also at those lengths you get all linkages nice and square so the movement is al linear to suspension movement as possible.

Changing swaybar thickness is a noticable effect. Changeing links by a few mm not so much in my opinion.

Julius

The laydown shocks (both front and rear) are normal since the intro of cobra 3.0 and got more pronounced with the 3.1 parts.
The laydown provides a more progressive shock movement and also a bit more travel as the attachment point goes further outward.

This makes the car run flatter in corners and at the same time forgiving on bumps.

dameetz

What I actually referring is the shocks are mounted infront of the shock tower rather than outside as per normal?

DKB243

iTrader: (37)

you change the rear arms left goes on the right and the right goes on the left makes the car 3mm shorter so you mount the shocks on the inside of tower!

MantisWorx

iTrader: (28)

Car rotates MUCH better mid turn, it puts weight in front of the rear axle line.

Cilal

iTrader: (7)

If the wheelbase is shortened 3mm, do I keep same setup with wheelbase spacers (currently all spacers mounted behind so it's at shortest wheelbase)? Do I keep it at shortest for better rotation or adjust to make wheelbase same?

Also when changing arms to this setup, where do you drill holes for droop, and what size hole should you drill?

MantisWorx

iTrader: (28)

Wheelbase still depends on track and body you use. I typically run mine 1mm rearwards.

If you use droop screws drill on top of where the original location is. I run spacers inside of the shocks to control droop. way more consistent.

jonquevi

Hi guys, quick question for the experts...
I'm racing my GT 3.0, but keep destroying my 2nd gear spur, I believe my engine keeps getting out of alignment during the race, probably because too many crashes.

Any suggestion on how to perfectly align the engine to the gears?
how tie they should be?
and how to keep it aligned?

Thx for the help

GGRacing

Hi

I seem to have thrown out my engine manual for my Cobra RTR's stock engine. I'm after a glow plug and was wondering if someone could post a Serpent/Novarossi part# or specify a type and size of one as a replacement to the glow plug that typically comes stock with the engine (Nova .21). Also, the O.S brand of glow plugs is the general preferred ones right?
Got someone suggesting I stick to glow plugs used in Novarossi type engines since he was saying that Japanse ones are different (operating temperatures, etc).

Many thanks.

Spellward

As it's basically a buggy engine, so it should be a standard plug (not a turbo) and a standard length (not short body or long reach). The hot plugs are easier to tune than the cold ones. It also depends on the fuel you are using, which from memory should be 20 or 25% nitro in your case. From the Novarossi website one of the following should do:

Standard Special

C1S - Ultra Hot
C2S - Extra Hot
C3S - Very Hot
C4S - Hot
C5S - Medium
C6S - Cold (25% Nitro)
C7S - Very Cold (over 25% Nitro)
C8S - Extra Cold (over 25% Nitro)
C9S - Ultra Cold (fuel with nitro)

Cilal

iTrader: (7)