UrabusDenis

Did anyone encounter a crack in the fuel tank of the Cobra GT? My old tank was leaking and it sourced it to a small but noticeable crack on the top, near the spring of the lid (on the exhaust side). I bought a new one a month ago but I'm already noticing a very small crack starting to develop on the exact same place? Is this a known issue? I am using a extension zip tie to open it with the body on, it might be a bit extra force but I am surely not the only one using it. I am strongly considering switching to another tank of similar dimensions.

UrabusDenis

Here are the pictures. The first one is the first tank, I had major tuning issues so I filled the tank with alcohol to see if it leaks. I noticed it leaked from that crack, so I bought a new one.



first tank


And after one race and a few short practice days, I couldn't believe when I saw seemingly the same crak on the new one??? It still works fine but is it a matter of time? I am really very mad and hugely dissapointed in the design quality of this part



second tank




second tank, up close

dan_vector

iTrader: (27)

Maybe you are pulling the tank lid too hard? I’ve never seen this in 4 GT cars and 2 811 truggies I’m Racing every weekend. The 125cc tank in the 811 buggies I have which are the same lid design haven’t cracked either. Seems very strange that no one else has this issue.

Try speaking to your serpent importer to see what they say but honestly I don’t believe there is anything wrong with the tank design. It hasn’t changed for years and has been absolutely fine.

Cilal

iTrader: (7)

When fully screwed in, I have 2mm gap left over and can't tighten bolt down onto shock tower.



Screwed out- as you can see the smooth section of the screw is the culprit. When screwed into the shock extension mount, the smooth non threaded part hits the threaded interior of the mount. Will not screw in any further.

Cilal

iTrader: (7)

If anybody has any ideas it would be much appreciated I really wanna give this new geometry a go this weekend �� The shorter extensions are perfect as the screw is threaded all the way. I can't use the old shock mount extensions as they are too thick to fit the holes on these, otherwise I would use the old.
Any help is much appreciated, I hope it makes sense now.

Cilal

iTrader: (7)

The only thing I can think of is serpent 3.1 upgrade that I got has got two incorrect screws.. Do they make the 3x30mm with a thread all the way? Otherwise if this was the same screw everybody received, then I'm sure many others may have had the same issues as me and would probably have been mentioned on here by now.

dan_vector

iTrader: (27)

Just use shorter M3 dome or cap head screws. That’s what I have on my car. Use the stock screws to mount the shocks. Mount the standoff’s in the same way as the 3.0 standoff’s. use the same screws.

dan_vector

iTrader: (27)

Look at the photos here. It’s clear how to mount the new standoff’s. just use the existing shock mount screw and use dome head M3 screws to mount the standoff to the shock tower. I think I use M3x10.

Serpent Model Racing Cars - Product - Upgrade set suspension 811 GT - Images

Cilal

iTrader: (7)

No probs thanks.
Can you confirm in those photos is it long stand off at front shock tower and short at rear shock tower?

Cilal

iTrader: (7)

Dan could you tell me if you're running longer top shock supports on rear or front? As far as I can see in the photos of the like you send, both front AND rear are the longer ones. Very confused ��

C@T

The long ones are for the front, the short ones for the rear. The opposite way there is no clearance for the front shock.

There are two easy ways to fix the problem with the screws delivered:

1. Take 3.2mm drill and carefully remove about 2mm of the thread from the backside.

2. Use a shorter screw from the backside and the short one from the previous version to fix the shock. Make sure to use a screw that is not completely threaded towards the end for a better fit in the shock tower.

I prefer version one as the self tapping nut to fix the shock is the better solution for later on maintenance.

Cilal

iTrader: (7)

Thanks for the response. That's what I thought! my front shocks were catching, but then others have said their front wasn't catching (I dunno how) and they thought that the rear was meant to be longer to make up the offset in the new lower mounts. It made sense too. Maybe both should be extended?? I also noticed that with the longer mounts on the front, my shocks (when viewed from the side) are now at 90 degrees to the front arms, so as to say they are perfectly lined up to take the shock as opposed to being laid back with the front tower.

I also much prefer the older mounts too, but the new towers have smaller holes so can't use them. the old seem More sturdy and much easier to take off for maintenance. I wonder if serpent will rectify the issue regarding the 30mm screw having too much flat on the new one.

I ended up not trusting myself to drill out the shock mount, and went with a shorter screw for the tower side & the original screw for the other.

Thanks again.

wkloppen

Gents,

Why do the clutch shoe springs brake almost every time you race the car?
We're running the RTR Serpent with the standard 3 shoe clutch. All the participants suffer from braking clutch springs. it doesn't matter whether you run the alu'or the carbons, they just brake almost everytime you race.

Is this a common problem? Bad design?....does the 4 shoe clutch have the same problem? Do I need to buy a different brand of springs?

any advice would be helpfull....

w.

Cilal

iTrader: (7)

I really don't know sorry. I had one set of springs that lasted hours of use. I'm
Only just into my second springs as I wanted stiffer. This is rtr.
So far no troubles with 4 shoe kit clutch either. Really sorry mate I don't know!

wkloppen

..


No worries...good to hear at least you experience no problems with the 4 shoe so we might go there as well