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Serpent Cobra GT

Old 05-09-2013, 09:33 AM
  #541  
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Originally Posted by tonylunatic
I have heard these servos do draw some power, but nothing like your experiencing.

Servos any servo will only draw big power if there is something binding. Check your steering and linkages. Your steering should be very smooth and easy to turn side to side, check linkages make sure they dont get hung up.

I would also try a different RX, and are you using a regulator? If your Rx can handle up to 8.4v and your servos are HV you should NOT be using a regulator. Regulator only needed if Radio RX only can be used up to 6.0v.then it is pointless to use HV servos cause your bringing down volts before it gets to servo.
No reg used or needed. I will check that its all free but just built it should be.

Everything is new. I was going to try a new reciever battery also, u never know even tho its new.

How about the glitch buster cap? Im ready to throw these servos out the window...But do have them and would rather make them work.

Thanks for all the help. Who stocks the green radiopost ones?
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Old 05-09-2013, 09:58 AM
  #542  
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Originally Posted by Victor Vector
Ahha. All coming clear now......thanks for the feed back. Looks like it's not so much a fault with the Savox servo but me expecting too much from them. I did think they were the flavour of the month last year though.

So what's the specific Radio Post item I need please ??

Thanks Toni and Andy..........

Jacko
That was too easy !! Look for the Green one dammit.
And dammit, "they're" all outta stock..................

Jacko

Last edited by Victor Vector; 05-09-2013 at 11:08 AM.
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Old 05-09-2013, 10:05 AM
  #543  
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Originally Posted by FastPete
See my issue below please, im running Savox 2271SG servos. Same combo Mike Lyday uses.

So im running this radio And im having a problem, and its not the radio.

In a nitro GT car, im using two Savox High voltage servos. First I ran a hump raciever pack. Full charge would show low voltage on the radio telemetory. Pull the battery and its fully charged.

Then I got a Trakpower lipo now it will go about 15 minutes, before it shows low voltage, pull the battery takes 800MAH its a 2700.

And when it shows low voltage if u just wait a sec it will go back to oh 7.88 then u start driving again and a minute later shows low and stops fail safe.

So the lipo was a big improvment. But no where near right.

These servos must draw so much, it robs from the receiver and thinks its low right?

So the last resort would be a glitch buster?

If I did it again I wouldnt get HV servos no need for them really.

Thanks
I run Savox 1268sg's high voltage with a 2200 Lipo and get over 1 1/2 of run time. Same servos for over two years.

Last edited by T-Hawk; 05-12-2013 at 08:54 AM.
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Old 05-09-2013, 10:10 AM
  #544  
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+1 on what Tony said. Your servo selection is definitely underpowered. With that being said, you should also look at the battery. Receivers do not have lipo cut-off capabilities, so every time that you run your car until the servos begin to slow, you're damaging the battery. Eventually the battery will swell and/or you will damage a cell. I for one have run Savox servos with no problem (1268MG), but I also make sure that my battery is charged by rotating between two batteries. Charging one while running the other.
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Old 05-09-2013, 01:33 PM
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OK OK OK so now I'm seeing big fat LiPo batts and regulators. I have a reg from my ol' 1/8th scale. What/Whoes battery are you chaps using thaty fits the Cobra battery bay please ??

Jacko..............
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Old 05-09-2013, 01:50 PM
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Originally Posted by Victor Vector
OK OK OK so now I'm seeing big fat LiPo batts and regulators. I have a reg from my ol' 1/8th scale. What/Whoes battery are you chaps using thaty fits the Cobra battery bay please ??

Jacko..............
Life = http://www.igthobbies.com/ASSOCIATED...ACK_p_545.html

Lipo = http://www.igthobbies.com/ASSOCIATED...TERY_p_39.html

NiMH = http://www.igthobbies.com/ASSOCIATED...ACK_p_539.html
You can find them at igthobbies.com

I was running the 1258 savox and they cost me a 2nd place finish at last years Byron's Challenge and a bump to the A-Main in Homestead this past January. I was running a 6.6v Life with no regulator and I think that combo was the problem. I have since switch to futaba HV and have no issues.
Good luck I have felt your pain!!!
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Old 05-10-2013, 09:54 AM
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Originally Posted by tonylunatic
Ok guys these are pics of the LRP SERPENT GT ARM BRACES V1
I took these photos with my phone not professional grade.

But this shows what you get in the kit.

Kit includes:

2 Front 2 Rear Braces
These arm braces are made of G10. Just as strong and as light as carbon fiber.
Hardware (14) M3x12mm screws to mount to your original arm.
LRP and GT8SPORTS.COM stickers
All in a reusable plastic bag.

To install you will only need a 3 /32 drill bit to make pilot holes for mounting hardware. They are bolted under your existing arms, they can be installed while car is built. Just remove the wheels so you have room to hold brace flush and true to your existing arm, while you drill pilot hole.

*Tip* Hold arm flush and true to an edge on your original arm make first pilot hole and put mounting screw in it. This will hold brace in place and give you some adjustability to make sure your are straight, then continue one hole at a time drill and insert screw one at a time.

I will have better pics and instruction video on site GT8SPORTS.COM

The price for a complete set/kit is $60 Shipped to Lower 48 States

I will do over sea shipping and International but additional cost will be applied.

At this time I can only accept payment via PayPal to:
[email protected]

Please contact me before sending payment, I only have a few sets left from first batch. More are being produced and take usually a week to have in stock.

I appreciate everyone's patience and interest, we will continue to bring you race quality upgrades and products.

Thanks
Tony Luna-Tic

Tony,


A question on these arm braces. So in addition to taking the "flex" out of the control arms and changing the ride height a bit are these supports helping create more mechanical grip under steering? My Cobra GT seems to have plenty of control under steering and I would be interested to see what the feel of the car is with the braces. This last weekend at Al's Hobby here in San Antonio I was running about .50 secs. a lap slower on my Cobra GT than my Xray NT1 which is pretty damn good, but if I can cut that even closer that would be fanatstic!!!

Regards,

D
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Old 05-10-2013, 11:54 AM
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Daniel,
I ran them at the Novarossi Challenge and felt that the car handled better in the corners. The car felt more predictable and crisp. Are you going to the Texas Biggie in two weeks? If so you can compare your car to mine back to back.
Chad
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Old 05-10-2013, 12:04 PM
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Originally Posted by chaderick
Daniel,
I ran them at the Novarossi Challenge and felt that the car handled better in the corners. The car felt more predictable and crisp. Are you going to the Texas Biggie in two weeks? If so you can compare your car to mine back to back.
Chad
Chad,

Thanks for the input. I have quite a bit on my plate at the moment but I am going to try and make it to the Biggie this year. If not maybe I can make it up to Austin soon to race with you guys. Will let ya know.

Thanks,

D
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Old 05-10-2013, 02:22 PM
  #550  
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Originally Posted by Speyederjedi
Tony,


A question on these arm braces. So in addition to taking the "flex" out of the control arms and changing the ride height a bit are these supports helping create more mechanical grip under steering? My Cobra GT seems to have plenty of control under steering and I would be interested to see what the feel of the car is with the braces. This last weekend at Al's Hobby here in San Antonio I was running about .50 secs. a lap slower on my Cobra GT than my Xray NT1 which is pretty damn good, but if I can cut that even closer that would be fanatstic!!!

Regards,

D
To answer your question simply, Yes they give the car more mechanical grip while steerring but also in straight line under power.

While driving the original arms flex easily vertically in both directions. Especially in a large sweeping turn the arm is under pressure from the counter weight transfer of the car, pressure from shock and gravity. The flex creates a variable in your steerring. The braces simply eliminates that variable, making the arms rigid as they are in a full size race car. This in turn results in having more precise steering. Now remember the braces only eliminates the car, not the other variables that occur during racing such as track surface, your setup, ture compound etc.

Under hard power in acceleration I noticed my wheels would hop both front and rear at times. The arms flex resulted in the power not being transferred to the ground efficiently. The braces help keep you power train/drive line more centered. The definitely helped here as well, I felt the car have a little more low end snap to it.

The biggest benefits to me while working with Marcus "MantisWorx" the designer and manufacture of the LRP braces is that it allows your car to hold and maintain your setup.
What I mean is by eliminating the flex variable, my camber, ride height and droop settings don't change as often as they did before.

Also mentioned that the braces change the ride height, this is not TRUE. The braces are mounted under neath the original arms and once mounted they sit pretty much centerline with the chassis. The also have the cut out so they do not interfere with the droop screws. Also ride height is checked from the chassis not the arms.

I have a few ask what they weigh, they are 80-85grams with hardware installed. The weight is spread out and is all as low and as close to the ground as it can be.

Most Serpents were or are under wieght to meet most events 3500gram empty weight minium. So this is not an issue.
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Old 05-10-2013, 04:29 PM
  #551  
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Originally Posted by tonylunatic
Also mentioned that the braces change the ride height, this is not TRUE. The braces are mounted under neath the original arms and once mounted they sit pretty much centerline with the chassis. The also have the cut out so they do not interfere with the droop screws. Also ride height is checked from the chassis not the arms.
The ride height does change but it's due to the warp of the arms that is removed when you install the braces. More than likely you will see you ride height increase a little as the arms straighten out. They keep the arms flat and eliminate the flex in the control arm that will change your ride height. The thing I like about them is that my setup will not change due to the arms bending over time and / or during acceleration, braking, and cornering. If control arms were meant to bend then my corvette would have them from GM. These GT cars are based on off-road buggy plateforms and in off-road you want them to bend for durability. Thanks to Tony and Marcus for putting the time and effort into these LRP braces.
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Old 05-10-2013, 04:55 PM
  #552  
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Thanks Chad that cleared things up, I may have been reading it wrong the way it was posted.

Last edited by tonylunatic; 05-10-2013 at 05:17 PM.
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Old 05-10-2013, 05:32 PM
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Originally Posted by tonylunatic
Thanks Chad that cleared things up, I may have been reading it wrong the way it was posted.
I got your back, buddy!!! Is it time to race again yet!!!! Want to get some good back and forth racing like you and I had a few weeks back. Two more weeks untIl the Texas Biggie!!!
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Old 05-12-2013, 08:29 AM
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I have the LRP arms and RCShox pistons in stock!
http://www.rcshox.com/serpent-cobra-gt/
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Old 05-17-2013, 01:19 PM
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Almost done, I am down to shocks and electronics. I am very happy with the quality and fit but have a couple of questions. I made the following upgrades as I built the kit: Alum two speed bulkheads, steel vented discs kit, hard steering spring, +2 rear hexes, -1 front hexes, and alum servo arms. I also have all the springs and the anti-roll bars from Paolo's setups.

Do I need the 0 degree alum steering blocks?
Are there plastic 0 degree steering blocks available?
Is there anything I am missing?


As far as the build:
1. If I fully tighten the front diff housing it seems to clamp down and bind the diff. If I back of a bit it's free but when I screw the front end to the chassis is starts to bind it a bit as well. Solution? Just break it in and check?

2. With Paolo's setup the turnbuckles and rod ends seem to be at there limit. The 0 degree front hubs would help this. Just leave it or are you modify them?

3. I was surprised to see that the two speed is not adjustable without taking it apart (the spur covers the holes). Did I do something wrong?

4. Paolo's clutch setup says 2 alum shoes 2 carbon and soft springs. Use soft springs on all shoes?

Thanks,

Troy
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