bigjez

Any pics.

CDS70

iTrader: (12)

Not withstanding the GT rules etc, can someone tell me will a 966 centax clutch work on a Cobra Serpent?

scary_jerry

I heard an experienced GT pilot comment that he thought the GT by its nature is too heavy for the Centax. Have you explored the BUKU ????

bertrandsv87

iTrader: (2)

What's the advantage of the buku clutches ???

Joseph16

iTrader: (2)

The advantage of the buku clutch is that u can adjust the spring tension without taking the engine off the car. You just have to put the car up side down, look for the 3 holes in the flywheel and adjust each spring. Also is more durable then regular 3 shoes clutches.

bigjez

Does the serpent gt have the same chassis as the offroad buggy? Also if not what degree is the front kick of the chassis thanks.

desotoracing

Same wheelbase but different chassis. The GT engine mount is different and sits further back compared to the buggy. Same front kick-up and front & rear suspension mounting holes...

bigjez

Thanks.

scary_jerry

Can you 'quantify' the caster angle compared to the Kyosho GT, TeamC/OFNA, and the Serpent Cobra GT? I'm seeing the TeamC 'turn under' both the Kyosho and the Cobra. I guess I need to know what I will gain going to Serpent Cobra GT from Kyosho GT. Yes, I have been in the presence of Paolo at Timezone and probably shouldn't need to ask after that kind of performance but I can't get the info from Kyosho on what the effective caster angle is. The Cobra GT is an amazing machine and most likely my next car since it is a 'high level competition' race car.

The 'preliminary' GT rules for ROAR still choke on the 'kickup' I'll probably avoid the TeamC/OFNA even though the OFNA had been 'grandfathered in' at a race and the TeamC not allowed. That's too confusing.

C@T

Standard caster angle for the Team C GT8LE (brushless) is 12°, GT8 (nitro) is the same.

Optional you get 14°.

desotoracing

I can give you the Serpent info. Chassis kick-up is 15deg. You can change the suspension pin angle with inserts so the angle can be as little as 8.5deg. We have caster blocks from 10, 12 & 16deg.

BTW Turn in is not a problem. We have plenty of adjustments that let you make the Cobra as smooth or aggressive as you need.

scary_jerry

Thanks to C@T and Desoto Racing............that's exactly what I was trying to find out. The best 'guess' I've ever got from a Kyosho racer was that my GT would be running closer to 17 deg. caster angle with the 'stock' unless I had put on the 20 or 22 deg. option. (heaven forbid)

And thank you Desoto Racing for clarifying the fact that I could continue to dial that 'tighter'. It's clear now that some of the Cobra GT cars I've seen weren't dialed where I would want it..........

Voltron989

iTrader: (5)

Hey Everyone,

I have the Cobra GTe, i know this is the nitro forum but the electric forum has very little info. I'm wondering if I can get some tips on getting some more steering out of my car. I love the car and I gained time and consistency with the Cobra over my DM1 but I feel that I've lost a good amount of steering with it compared to the DM1.

Some options I've been thinking about are as follows.
My car is currently built to spec. No changes.

Options 2 steering rack. I see a lot of people on here and the buggy forums say its gained a lot more steering on their cars

Lowering the caster.0 degree steering blocks? Changing front pin inserts?

Softer front sway bar?

Changes to front toe and camber?


Any tips to start out with would be greatly appreciated.
When it comes to making changes to the car I'm pretty much a newb. I usually just try to get my cars setting somewhere in the ballpark and then just learn to drive it from there.

Thanks

TerribleTy

Can you describe your track a bit? Don't want to throw stuff out that is going to hinder you on the track. With this being the electric Chassis I would be messing with Diff Fluid Thickness. If you are running too thick your car wont turn in like you want it too. You are also going to want to check all your end points and so on to make sure they are fully extended
(this is a radio setting). I cant say that I've heard of anyone having trouble with the Nitro sedan turning in fact I've dialed mine down quite a bit.

Mess with your diff fluids, go lighter in the front than what you have. You may want to consider the 10deg caster blocks as they will give you more bite in the corners. You can also play with the roll center, the higher you can get it the more force its going to put on the wheels. I would leave it at stock set up wise, make sure you have good racing tires like some Sweep EXP 50s or 45s depending on track temp. Usually I change at around 70 degrees Track Temp not air temp. 45s are for cooler temps than the 50s however you can use 45s in warmer temps as long as you aren't over driving the car. Safest bet is to get some 50s as these will be an all season tire that will suit you just about anywhere and any temp.

Your key here is to make one change at a time and spend 5-10 mins on the track feeling what it did to your car. Once you start to associate changes with feel you will be ready to look at multiple changes at a time if you choose to do so. Most racers stick to one at a time even after they get good. Get yourself a good book on set up and treat it as you bible. I recommend the XXX main Touring car setup book as you will use pretty much all the theories in this book. Keep it with you on the track as it is a good sanity check as you are learning the adjustments.

tonylunatic

iTrader: (45)

Does anyone know the ratings for springs "GREEN", "PINK" & "GREY"?

The are Serpent Spring sames size as the GT springs, I got these from a friend but can't find their ratings.

Thanks