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Serpent Cobra GT

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Old 12-15-2017, 01:00 AM
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Originally Posted by YBNORMAL View Post
Excellent, thank you.

I was looking to get a ride height/droop gauge that will cover all RC vehicles, and as long as I know the reference surfaces and a RH gauge with enough spread from low to high, I can make my own tools as needed relatively easily. I do not have a set up board, but I do have dead flat surfaces.

I bought the Hudy 2mm-15mm gauge, and with the proper known height blocks, I can measure anything from a 1/10 touring, to a Tmaxx, and everything in between. Droop setting for all them as well. With feeler gauges I could get between whole numbers if needed, for pennies on the dollar.

At this point, I don't want to go down the rabbit hole of legit set up stations and boards, maybe later........
I use a hudy droop gauge for off roads, it measures 0 to -13 but 0 is 30mm and every -1 becomes 29, 28mm etc. i use it as mentioned above- flat surface with chassis laying flat on it, and measure to the base of wheel hex. Works very well.


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Old 12-19-2017, 02:57 AM
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Hello i wonder if any one can help I am looking for some front and rear body mounts and maybe the shocks to suite the serpent 811e cobra i am converting a buggy.PM if you can help or delete if not allowed
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Old 12-19-2017, 02:58 AM
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What starter box do you guys recommend for the Serpent Cobra? Like a total noob, I ordered the Hudy Star Box for 1/10-1/8 on road, just to find out it wont work with the off road based Cobra.

The Ofna Blue box is mentioned a lot, are there others to look at? I am going to keep the Hudy for now since I want to build a 1/10 on road at some point, but for this Cobra, and my Losi 8 buggies, is there anything other than the Ofna that is recommended?

Thanks!
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Old 12-19-2017, 04:13 AM
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Mugen
http://www.amainhobbies.com/mugen-se...gb0237/p223638
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Old 12-19-2017, 07:27 AM
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I guess Mugen and Hudy are the "brands" to go for with the mugen begin slightly cheaper on average. I bought the Hudy because some "expert" told me it was a good box. Average price in euro's for the hudy is 95 EUR.
https://www.hudy.net/xhudy/products/...f824356ab3c467
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Old 12-19-2017, 08:47 AM
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I use the LRP Spec 2 starter box. I like it as it's taller than all the others and the location brackets on top are wider and more customisable. I found the hudy box quite restrictive and sold it.
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Old 12-19-2017, 01:41 PM
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Ok, thanks guys.

I guess I have an excuse to build a Natrix now........
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Old 12-20-2017, 03:57 AM
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Originally Posted by YBNORMAL View Post
Ok, thanks guys.

I guess I have an excuse to build a Natrix now........
Do it. Fantastic car to build. You'll love it.
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Old 12-27-2017, 01:16 PM
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Originally Posted by dan_vector View Post

You can check you suspension inserts too. I run 2d/3d in the front and 6/5in in the rear of the car. I also run the front diff spacer too.
Hey Dan, quick question with that front insert setup 2d/3d, the 6 degree c-hub, front diff spacer and the zero degree steering knuckle.

What is the final caster amount???
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Old 12-27-2017, 02:11 PM
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Default Car fine tuning setup

I have a setup station. And droop and ride height gauges etc.

Aside from that, Is there anything else important for GT cars to fine tune? Surely it's hard to balance a nitro GT car considering the fuel tank is to the side and will be forever changing weight and balance?

What about tweak station? Corner weight system? Any ideas would be great.

What sort of static weight (empty fuel tank with no body, and empty fuel tank with body attached) does a typical cobra GT kit weigh in at? Should I be transferring anything, making anything lighter, or just running it as is at stock?
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Old 12-28-2017, 11:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Cilal View Post
I have a setup station. And droop and ride height gauges etc.
IMO you don't need anything too fancy to set up a GT car so I think you have everything covered.

Originally Posted by Cilal View Post
What sort of static weight (empty fuel tank with no body, and empty fuel tank with body attached) does a typical cobra GT kit weigh in at? Should I be transferring anything, making anything lighter, or just running it as is at stock?
3550 grams with body, empty tank and new tires. My JZ Flow body with exhaust deflector, some shoe goo and trimmed rear wing weighs 280 grams. You want to be as close to 3500 as possible without going under. The car will get lighter the longer you run it from tire wear so keep that in mind.
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Old 12-29-2017, 10:33 AM
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Originally Posted by Dougie1986 View Post
Hey Dan, quick question with that front insert setup 2d/3d, the 6 degree c-hub, front diff spacer and the zero degree steering knuckle.

What is the final caster amount???
I don't know the exact figure nor have I ever measured it - it does not concern me to be honest. I just know it works very well on the car at all the tracks I've been to.
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Old 12-29-2017, 10:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Cilal View Post
I have a setup station. And droop and ride height gauges etc.

Aside from that, Is there anything else important for GT cars to fine tune? Surely it's hard to balance a nitro GT car considering the fuel tank is to the side and will be forever changing weight and balance?

What about tweak station? Corner weight system? Any ideas would be great.

What sort of static weight (empty fuel tank with no body, and empty fuel tank with body attached) does a typical cobra GT kit weigh in at? Should I be transferring anything, making anything lighter, or just running it as is at stock?
The car is pretty well balanced stock. You don't need to do anything. My car ready to race with sweep wheels/tires and Sweep P1R body is 3623gr and I run the car pretty much stock v3.1 specification with the addition of the diff spacers. Ignore tire wear as the weight change is negligible with rubber tires (foam tires of course is a different story but we don't use foam tires in 1/8 GT).

A corner weight system is a waste of money in my experience. You don't need a tweek station with such a big car. It is better to measure the setup accurately and set the shock lengths with the springs equally L/R Anti roll bars aligned correctly and the car will be pretty much tweek free. You can check the tweek by lifting the front and rear of the car and ensuring both wheels lift off at the same time.
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Old 12-30-2017, 12:06 AM
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Originally Posted by dan_vector View Post
The car is pretty well balanced stock. You don't need to do anything. My car ready to race with sweep wheels/tires and Sweep P1R body is 3623gr and I run the car pretty much stock v3.1 specification with the addition of the diff spacers. Ignore tire wear as the weight change is negligible with rubber tires (foam tires of course is a different story but we don't use foam tires in 1/8 GT).

A corner weight system is a waste of money in my experience. You don't need a tweek station with such a big car. It is better to measure the setup accurately and set the shock lengths with the springs equally L/R Anti roll bars aligned correctly and the car will be pretty much tweek free. You can check the tweek by lifting the front and rear of the car and ensuring both wheels lift off at the same time.
Thanks for all the awesome responses guys.
Feeling content that I've got all the expensive investments out of the way.
I have a rear diff raiser (a friend gave it to me) but not a front. Is it worth using them, or not? Just personal preference? Also- if I use it, what changes should I make to car setup to adjust for it, or just run it stock as is and see if I like it?

Also looking to buy new clutch bells soon. Which should I get? Standard steel? Air vented? Or he nickel coated?
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Old 12-30-2017, 05:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Cilal View Post
Thanks for all the awesome responses guys.
Feeling content that I've got all the expensive investments out of the way.
I have a rear diff raiser (a friend gave it to me) but not a front. Is it worth using them, or not? Just personal preference? Also- if I use it, what changes should I make to car setup to adjust for it, or just run it stock as is and see if I like it?

Also looking to buy new clutch bells soon. Which should I get? Standard steel? Air vented? Or he nickel coated?
The rear diff spacer makes the most difference. Don't worry about the front diff spacer - many don't like it although I personally do. You only need to reset the droop and ride height after fitting the spacer. Run the car without first to be able to compare it.

The stock clutch bell is fine. I run either the stock or the vented. Don't use the alu end bell as it has a habit of breaking around the vents.
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