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Old 05-27-2016, 05:38 AM
  #1921  
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You will enjoy them when you see the results they produce.
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Old 05-27-2016, 12:21 PM
  #1922  
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Originally Posted by MantisWorx
I just noticed that you have the op2 ackerman arm, that is made for offroad and takes steering away dramatically, go back to the stock opt3 bar.


Welcome to racing it never ends!

You have been really helpful..

Thanks a lot..

So the new sl8 is not a must ..??

I have the angle already at the front back..

Thanks..
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Old 05-27-2016, 12:28 PM
  #1923  
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Originally Posted by dan_vector
The arms being flat makes the car carry more corner speed in a nutshell.

A better GT spec engine with onroad pipe and shorter manifold (not a buggy engine) will go a long way to getting the performance you are searching for.

Going fast and being at the top of the time sheets unfortunately costs money and then lots of talent! The Serpent 3.0 is a better, faster car than the X3 by a long way - the published results speak for themselves.
Thanks guys..

Will the o.s speed b2101 be a bad choice?

Will I need 5 port for sure..

Someone called Maxima was saying that a 7mm restrictor makes all the engines suffer..
Even if it is 5 or any port..

It reduces the output a lot..

Is that correct?

GT engine I find
Redd
Piccolo
Nova
RB..

Engine that I was planning to buy b2101 thought had very good specs compared to GT engines.
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Old 05-27-2016, 12:52 PM
  #1924  
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Originally Posted by didrace
You have been really helpful..

Thanks a lot..

Your very welcome!

So the new sl8 is not a must ..??

SL8 what?

I have the angle already at the front back..

Thanks..
Originally Posted by didrace
Thanks guys..

Will the o.s speed b2101 be a bad choice?

Will I need 5 port for sure..

Someone called Maxima was saying that a 7mm restrictor makes all the engines suffer..
Even if it is 5 or any port..

It reduces the output a lot..

Is that correct?

GT engine I find
Redd
Piccolo
Nova
RB..

Engine that I was planning to buy b2101 thought had very good specs compared to GT engines.
depends on your rules, if your not sancitoned by ROAR or IFMAR you can use what ever engine you want, i strongy suggest you get either a MITO 5 or 9 port or the picco GT engine. IMO those are the best engines out right now for GT. Stay away from the offroad engines.. The B2101 is an offroad engine. dont get it.
The 7mm venturis does restrict the motor but thats what its meant to do and if everyone has to run it then its relative and doesnt really matter.
If your club doesnt have engine rules get a 9 port and be done with it!
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Old 05-28-2016, 09:25 AM
  #1925  
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Originally Posted by Paolo M
More than custom, is the 2.0 FR hinge pin mount. I am testing the 3.0 FR and the position is 3 down
I just follow your mounts setting and make a measurement today, using 3.0 FR FR mount and 2.0 FR RR mount, and use 6 deg c hub.
1st measurement with 3 up / 3 up, the caster comes to 12 degree.
2nd is 3 down / 3 up in 11 degree.
The range I guess, 2up / 3up in 11.75 degree, 0/3 up in 11.5 deg, 2 down / 3 up in 11.25 deg.
I didn't test it on track yet, I guess this setup is more dive than standard 3.0 setup, lower roll centre and stronger straight line ability.
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Old 06-01-2016, 05:37 AM
  #1926  
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Another great Serpent showing this past weekend at the 39th annual Texas biggie! Paolo TQ/win Luna Q2/P2 and my 10yr old son Marcus cole with a 3.0 (2.75) conversion with Q7/P3! all podium running Jz bodies, Flo-Control pistons, Arrowmax tires and Serpent cars!
Attached Thumbnails Serpent Cobra GT-biggiecole.jpg   Serpent Cobra GT-biggieresults.jpg   Serpent Cobra GT-biggieone.jpg  
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Old 06-02-2016, 06:53 AM
  #1927  
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Originally Posted by MantisWorx
depends on your rules, if your not sancitoned by ROAR or IFMAR you can use what ever engine you want, i strongy suggest you get either a MITO 5 or 9 port or the picco GT engine. IMO those are the best engines out right now for GT. Stay away from the offroad engines.. The B2101 is an offroad engine. dont get it.
The 7mm venturis does restrict the motor but thats what its meant to do and if everyone has to run it then its relative and doesnt really matter.
If your club doesnt have engine rules get a 9 port and be done with it!
Hi, what if I put 7 port onroad engine on GT, should I run lower gearing?
I tired 15/19 with 49/45 default gearing, the high end speed is fast, but the high speed corner is much over the tire limit. so just wondering the gearing, thx!
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Old 06-02-2016, 04:13 PM
  #1928  
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Well looky here what Michael Salven posted about the new SL8 XLi 2-speed assembly.

https://www.facebook.com/michael.sal...9507063541983/
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Old 06-03-2016, 07:48 AM
  #1929  
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Originally Posted by beebone
Hi, what if I put 7 port onroad engine on GT, should I run lower gearing?
I tired 15/19 with 49/45 default gearing, the high end speed is fast, but the high speed corner is much over the tire limit. so just wondering the gearing, thx!
The difference between a good 5-port GT and 7-port onroad engine isn't massive (if both on the ROAR 7mm restrictor). You'll have a bit more top end on the 7 port so you can probably leave the gearing alone.
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Old 06-03-2016, 07:49 AM
  #1930  
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Originally Posted by RoketRdr
Well looky here what Michael Salven posted about the new SL8 XLi 2-speed assembly.

https://www.facebook.com/michael.sal...9507063541983/
Yep. It's a good tip. The cam he's using is from the 977 evo car but the assembly method is the same for the GT car. Notice the big tip about the small setscrews in from the inside that tip should really go in the manual as it's an absolute must to have a reliable gearbox.
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Old 06-03-2016, 11:20 AM
  #1931  
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Cool trans clutch spring bind

My Cobra started out as the 1.0 and has a few 'adds'. The topic I haven't seen discussed is the 'bind' on the springs in the trans clutch shoes. They were not a 'drop-in' fit and I found that after quite a long time of fighting the 'shift....no shift.....maybe shift....or not' I was not real happy with the car.

Has that situation been remedied? I still see an occasional reference to a 'shifting problem' but have never noticed a comment on those springs having an 'interference-fit' by nature that with heat buildup only becomes a bigger problem. I'm still running the 1.0 'white' colored shoes. I own a later version of the 'black' shoes but the fix I found got my 'white' shoes to function. My car has never spit out the clutch shoe grub screws but I do know I tracked my problem to the diameter of the springs/spring hole bore.
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Old 06-04-2016, 03:46 AM
  #1932  
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Originally Posted by scary_jerry
My Cobra started out as the 1.0 and has a few 'adds'. The topic I haven't seen discussed is the 'bind' on the springs in the trans clutch shoes. They were not a 'drop-in' fit and I found that after quite a long time of fighting the 'shift....no shift.....maybe shift....or not' I was not real happy with the car.

Has that situation been remedied? I still see an occasional reference to a 'shifting problem' but have never noticed a comment on those springs having an 'interference-fit' by nature that with heat buildup only becomes a bigger problem. I'm still running the 1.0 'white' colored shoes. I own a later version of the 'black' shoes but the fix I found got my 'white' shoes to function. My car has never spit out the clutch shoe grub screws but I do know I tracked my problem to the diameter of the springs/spring hole bore.
The springs were not tight in any of my white shoe'd old style gearboxes in my GT car or my 966 or early 977 cars. So I'm not quite sure what was going on with yours. If they are a bit tight then you could just use a straight reamer to just clean up the holes slightly.

The new SL8 XLi gearbox is better because it has much less rotating mass and I've found that the car will hold onto 2nd gear in those fast sweepers and jump around the shift less. The 1.0/2.0 gearbox was perfectly fine and I never had a problem with it so long as it was built properly and the gap between the shoes and 2nd gear bell was closely managed to ensure it was at the minimum with very little play on the cam.

When the car is new the shoes take a while to 'bed-in' but once that has happened the shifting is very consistent and the shoes last a very long time. Don't forget to clean the gearbox every few runs as any accumulation of oil/grease/fuel will affect the shifting performance if not kept clean. DON'T oil the 2nd gear bell housing bearing!!!
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Old 06-04-2016, 06:37 AM
  #1933  
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Originally Posted by beebone
Hi, what if I put 7 port onroad engine on GT, should I run lower gearing?
I tired 15/19 with 49/45 default gearing, the high end speed is fast, but the high speed corner is much over the tire limit. so just wondering the gearing, thx!
7 port is a great engine for GT, dont chage your gearing to match a turn,thats what brakes are for!!

Originally Posted by dan_vector
The difference between a good 5-port GT and 7-port onroad engine isn't massive (if both on the ROAR 7mm restrictor). You'll have a bit more top end on the 7 port so you can probably leave the gearing alone.


Originally Posted by dan_vector
The springs were not tight in any of my white shoe'd old style gearboxes in my GT car or my 966 or early 977 cars. So I'm not quite sure what was going on with yours. If they are a bit tight then you could just use a straight reamer to just clean up the holes slightly.

The new SL8 XLi gearbox is better because it has much less rotating mass and I've found that the car will hold onto 2nd gear in those fast sweepers and jump around the shift less. The 1.0/2.0 gearbox was perfectly fine and I never had a problem with it so long as it was built properly and the gap between the shoes and 2nd gear bell was closely managed to ensure it was at the minimum with very little play on the cam.

When the car is new the shoes take a while to 'bed-in' but once that has happened the shifting is very consistent and the shoes last a very long time. Don't forget to clean the gearbox every few runs as any accumulation of oil/grease/fuel will affect the shifting performance if not kept clean. DON'T oil the 2nd gear bell housing bearing!!!

Spoken like a pro!
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Old 06-04-2016, 06:41 AM
  #1934  
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Originally Posted by dan_vector
Yep. It's a good tip. The cam he's using is from the 977 evo car but the assembly method is the same for the GT car. Notice the big tip about the small setscrews in from the inside that tip should really go in the manual as it's an absolute must to have a reliable gearbox.

To add to this more trans shims should also be added to the kit, i was having a second gear issue. it was eating the gears up, not stripping but literally chewing them up in a matter of one tank no matter how the mesh was. After inspection i noticed that the second gear assembly was just simply loose and wobbling. So the next time you order parts order a pack or two of the SER110432 shims. i also installed longer set screws, but i also think that a larger set screw will also fit and i will try it soon.
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Old 06-04-2016, 07:25 AM
  #1935  
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Originally Posted by MantisWorx
To add to this more trans shims should also be added to the kit, i was having a second gear issue. it was eating the gears up, not stripping but literally chewing them up in a matter of one tank no matter how the mesh was. After inspection i noticed that the second gear assembly was just simply loose and wobbling. So the next time you order parts order a pack or two of the SER110432 shims. i also installed longer set screws, but i also think that a larger set screw will also fit and i will try it soon.
Hmmmmm. I wander about the larger set screw causing issues. The larger surface area in contact with the roller may restrict it's movement on the cam due to added friction on the roller? Definately worth a shot but to be honest I think just using the stock screw and installing from the inside fixes all the issues and doesn't add any weight like a longer or bigger set screw would do. Marginal I know but still added rotational mass

Just had my first run on the car with Flo-control pistons. Whoa what a difference!! Also recieved a set of Flo-control droop gauges.... Man how did I live before without these in my life!!!! Thanks for some awesome products Marcus.
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