casemate

Hi guys,

Currently building a GT8L, and hope you guys can help out with settings on this car.

I'm looking for a setup for smooth prepped track and car park bashing with a few friends.

Car is still standard, so I'll take advice from you guys with more experience with this car, and will change parts on the car if recommended.

Also, the brakes on this car is...erm...feels a bit under powered just from looking at it, I'm sure it'll melt from just one round of 30mins.... anyone used uprated metal disk and pads for this car? can Kyosho brakes fit?

Thanks in advance for any help.

regards,

MantisWorx

iTrader: (28)

Start off with my standard setup post a few pages back. The L chassis is front heavy so i would add weight to the back of the car and make the rear ride height 1mm lower than the front.
Use Serpent white or yellow front springs (teamC just released new springs but i cant get them just yet)
Remove the rear sway bar
Get RCShox 2 stage pistons http://www.rcshox.com/copy-of-teamc-...-stage-for-t8/
Get the RCShox arm braces
Get the aluminum chassis braces
Get the upgrade engine mount
Get the aluminum transmission mount
Your first upgrade needs to be the HD oneway bearing http://www.rcshox.com/one-way-bearing/

The stock brakes are fine , its the transmission mount that gets hot and soft making the brakes really bad. If you go metal brakes with the plastic mounts it they will melt down in one tank!

The long chassis has ALOT of flex so the upgrade engine mount,braces and center mount will keep you from stripping gears.Those pieces are expensive so get the engine mount first and then get the center mount.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6tXHoR6XP6w

wiggindude6969

iTrader: (1)

+1

wiggindude6969

iTrader: (1)

how long is your straight? Might want to get the 41 and 45 spur gears. or at least an extra set just in case.... its always good to keep extras....

also the silicone bladders seem to help a lot. RXShox has them too.

casemate

Thanks for the advice!

UUnfortunately I'm in Hong Kong, so buying from US will rape me on delivery charges.

Just want to know what's wrong with the one way bearing ?

MantisWorx

iTrader: (28)

I ship to China on a weekly basis! First class is 9.00( as long as i can fit the parts in an envelope) priority is 25.00(small flat rate box or envelope), thats not too bad!

The kit oneway bearing is a low grade piece. As soon as it gets hot it will start to slip and the car will double shift which will eventually fail and/or start stripping spur gears, Save your self the trouble and replace it ASAP!!

MantisWorx

iTrader: (28)

Little heads up to everyone with this car. I had a gear case melt down yesterday, its the second time its happened in about 3mths but of course it will happen at the worst time, so everyone needs to keep on top of it.
TeamC has an upgraded case in the works but its not out yet. The inner rear center bearing will get hot, come apart and destroy the case. to avoid this leave some space in between the center coupling and the pinion shaft. You can loosen it while the car is still together so just back off the pinion and slide the coupler towards the front about .5mm or so to allow for heat expansion.




I also recommend using a high quality bearing, the bearing in these pics was a ABEC7 ceramic so a lower quality bearing would be worse , in fact the last time it happend it took out both bearings!

billdelong

iTrader: (33)

so ceramic bearings run cooler than normal bearings?
Do they also make the car go faster or is the only benefit of ceramic having better longevity of bearing life?

MantisWorx

iTrader: (28)

Ceramic bearings are worth the money! they run cooler, way less drag ,you can actually run them dry (mine are all dry except at the gear pinions). And the car is faster. I also run F1 and full ceramics in an electric car will actually allow you to gear up and still run cooler! One of the best upgrades you can do to a nitro car is use dry ceramics in the clutch bell. Ceramic doesnt expand with heat (well at least not at the heat level we put them in!!)

billdelong

iTrader: (33)

I think I'll give a set of ceramics a shot, thanks Marcus!

casemate

Ah, I see, I'll see if I can find a replacement in my LHS, if not then I'll get it from you then.

I also had a look at your website for the aluminum transmission tower, but I can't find the part number, and TeamC website also doesn't list it. Can you please tell me that part number, reason is I went to my LHS looking for it, but they all said TeamC does not have that part, so I bought another spare standard plastic tower in case it breaks.

MantisWorx

iTrader: (28)

I have ceramic kits for the TeamC car on the site.

You are not going to find the right one, I searched and tested at least a dozen. Ultimately i had to get them direct, Mine come with the proper grease already in them.

TU0833 for the mount

MantisWorx

iTrader: (28)

New body!

bertrandsv87

iTrader: (2)

Ceramic bearing need Acer Syn lube in them to last long and run cool : running them dry will cause this everytime.....

bertrandsv87

iTrader: (2)

The best solution here is to shield the driveshaft from all the heat source around it , and grease just that bearing real good : grease absorbs heat.... Also polish the shaft where the bearing go onto to minimize friction... Lastly, make sure there is a slight(0.1mm) play between the input gear and the bevel gear(grease them well also).....