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Old 04-03-2014, 01:41 PM   #961
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I am told for enniti fronts its -1 blocks
for matrix you should be able to use the 0 blocks in the front
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Old 04-03-2014, 02:36 PM   #962
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Originally Posted by Vector03cobra View Post
I am told for enniti fronts its -1 blocks
for matrix you should be able to use the 0 blocks in the front
+1


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Old 04-04-2014, 07:18 PM   #963
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For the default settings, where do the caster clips go on the rear? And I bought the car used, there was a one 2mm clip behind the rear arm. Is that right? I know the front is 1mm in front or front arm and 1mm behind. Should I put 2 1mm clip or one 2mm clip on the rear arm? Thanks
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Old 04-04-2014, 07:25 PM   #964
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For the default settings, where do the caster clips go on the rear? And I bought the car used, there was a one 2mm clip behind the rear arm. Is that right? I know the front is 1mm in front or front arm and 1mm behind. Should I put 2 1mm clip or one 2mm clip on the rear arm? Thanks

Neutral is 1 mm in the front and 1 mm in the rear "Rear arm"
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Old 04-05-2014, 05:02 AM   #965
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So is that -1 on the setup sheet? And both in front of rear arm is -2? Or opposite?
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Old 04-05-2014, 06:24 AM   #966
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Originally Posted by JOE SI View Post
So is that -1 on the setup sheet? And both in front of rear arm is -2? Or opposite?
Having the car longest in the rear is 0 and the shortest is -2

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Old 04-15-2014, 11:28 AM   #967
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2speed spring is discontinued!what part number are we supposed to use??
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Old 05-11-2014, 02:28 PM   #968
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Questions?? Side Belt

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Originally Posted by peppernick View Post
Mount the side belt tensioner beneath the radio tray. This will alllow more adjustment to push the side belt downwards and away from the manifold.
I know this was recommended for a number of reasons. I've been setting all important stuff. Clutch, shift point, brakes, etc... I've got about 5 tanks through this build. It just didn't seem to be as freed up as I thought it would be. The side belt is really tight. Enoiugh to put excessive drag on the drivetrain. When I take it off, it will roll very freely. Do I put it back on top of the plate, or is their a Mod that I missed? It clears my Nov. med. header by about 1.5mm. First race of the MWS next weekend, gotta have it sorted out!
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Old 05-11-2014, 03:08 PM   #969
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[QUOTE=TeamCarnage;13254475]I know this was recommended for a number of reasons. I've been setting all important stuff. Clutch, shift point, brakes, etc... I've got about 5 tanks through this build. It just didn't seem to be as freed up as I thought it would be. The side belt is really tight. Enoiugh to put excessive drag on the drivetrain. When I take it off, it will roll very freely. Do I put it back on top of the plate, or is their a Mod that I missed? It clears my Nov. med. header by about 1.5mm. First race of the MWS next weekend, gotta have it sorted out! [/QUO

If you can clear your engine manifold mount it on the top.
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Old 05-11-2014, 06:36 PM   #970
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Originally Posted by TeamCarnage View Post
I know this was recommended for a number of reasons. I've been setting all important stuff. Clutch, shift point, brakes, etc... I've got about 5 tanks through this build. It just didn't seem to be as freed up as I thought it would be. The side belt is really tight. Enoiugh to put excessive drag on the drivetrain. When I take it off, it will roll very freely. Do I put it back on top of the plate, or is their a Mod that I missed? It clears my Nov. med. header by about 1.5mm. First race of the MWS next weekend, gotta have it sorted out!
I'm still sorting out some of the stuff that goes wrong first time out also, and was actually REALLY REALLY frustrated with the car.
Yesterday was my 3rd time running it and it all came together.
At first, my drive train wasn't free at all, so I know how you feel, but I noticed that when I run the car for a few laps the belts stretch or something and the car rolls like a electric tc. The plastic pulleys do trap a whole lot of dirt though. I've since switched to the aluminum pulleys and the drivetrain is always free and smooth as shit.
I did run on a different track the first 2X then yesterday and did do faster lap times then with my old car, but couldn't finish a qualifier because I had a lot of stuff coming loose on me, but like I said,, I had gotten most of that stuff sorted out. At first I put the tensioner under the top plate, but now it's back on top, I just switched to the xray rolling part which is bigger and it helps.
Now my question is, from softest to hardest, in what order are the springs?
Is it? Orange, red, pink, blue, purple? Orange and red are noticeable but the others are very hard to tell.
Also, the 733 rear uprights have 2 holes to screw the camber link into. Can I use them? They will prob change the geometry but it will give an option to run longer links. Thanks
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Old 05-11-2014, 08:44 PM   #971
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Originally Posted by TeamCarnage View Post
I know this was recommended for a number of reasons. I've been setting all important stuff. Clutch, shift point, brakes, etc... I've got about 5 tanks through this build. It just didn't seem to be as freed up as I thought it would be. The side belt is really tight. Enoiugh to put excessive drag on the drivetrain. When I take it off, it will roll very freely. Do I put it back on top of the plate, or is their a Mod that I missed? It clears my Nov. med. header by about 1.5mm. First race of the MWS next weekend, gotta have it sorted out!
Try the low friction belts. They are much softer and make the transmission super smooth compared to the stock belts which are very stiff, particularly the side belt.
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Old 05-11-2014, 08:49 PM   #972
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Originally Posted by JOE SI View Post
I'm still sorting out some of the stuff that goes wrong first time out also, and was actually REALLY REALLY frustrated with the car.
Yesterday was my 3rd time running it and it all came together.
At first, my drive train wasn't free at all, so I know how you feel, but I noticed that when I run the car for a few laps the belts stretch or something and the car rolls like a electric tc. The plastic pulleys do trap a whole lot of dirt though. I've since switched to the aluminum pulleys and the drivetrain is always free and smooth as shit.
I did run on a different track the first 2X then yesterday and did do faster lap times then with my old car, but couldn't finish a qualifier because I had a lot of stuff coming loose on me, but like I said,, I had gotten most of that stuff sorted out. At first I put the tensioner under the top plate, but now it's back on top, I just switched to the xray rolling part which is bigger and it helps.
Now my question is, from softest to hardest, in what order are the springs?
Is it? Orange, red, pink, blue, purple? Orange and red are noticeable but the others are very hard to tell.
Also, the 733 rear uprights have 2 holes to screw the camber link into. Can I use them? They will prob change the geometry but it will give an option to run longer links. Thanks
http://www.serpent.com/file.php?FileID=5909

http://www.serpent.com/product/160310/

The spring rates can be found on the above links. All that info is easily found on the serpent site.

You have plenty of options for changing rear roll centre using the stock uprights. The inner link position has many options. The 733 blocks will fit but you shouldn't need to use them.
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Old 05-11-2014, 10:19 PM   #973
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Try the low friction belts. They are much softer and make the transmission super smooth compared to the stock belts which are very stiff, particularly the side belt.
Thanks Bump and Dan.. I'll put the tensioner on top and I like the idea of the bigger bearings. I bought the low friction belts for spares, I'll put the side belt on for now. Love the car, so far. Hope I feel the same after this weekend. A 3 day event to play! I'll see how many screws come loose!
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Old 05-12-2014, 12:48 AM   #974
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It's a great car for sure. Enjoy it. Can't wait for the 748 though
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Old 05-12-2014, 01:16 AM   #975
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Also, the 733 rear uprights have 2 holes to screw the camber link into. Can I use them? They will prob change the geometry but it will give an option to run longer links. Thanks
Actually the 747 upright position is the 'long' position of the 733 upright. There are other differences in the upright as well so a direct comparison is not only a change in link length.

I have never found the inner upright position on the 733 upright to be better. Nor do i normally use the 'short' position on the camber link bracket on the 747.
Some team drivers even cut off the outer holes from the bracket!
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