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Old 12-18-2013, 01:34 PM   #766
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http://www.maxxprod.com/mpi/mpi-4.html#Crimper

Here's the one I have. The video Bump posted looks like a more user friendly tool. The results are the same. Way better than splicing the wires...my.02

The Hansen tool is very user friendly. It is a ratcheted tool with two location for two size pins. If your on a budget checkout Servo city they have the same tool for $20.00 cheaper. I believe this is a Chinese knockoff. I think the one at Hanssen hobbies is American made.


http://www.servocity.com/html/pin_crimpers.html



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Old 12-18-2013, 03:49 PM   #767
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No problems with the transponder there? Looks neat and sweet!
No, no problems at all.

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Originally Posted by GPXJOE View Post
interesting,I planned to cut the wires too. Any glitch issues?I was afraid it would cause glitches so I did not go through with it.

U just cut and solder with led then shrink tube?that's it?
I cut the wire to length and them crimp on new pins using the tool posted above. Think i paid $10 for mine at a local radio shack.
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Old 12-19-2013, 09:54 AM   #768
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That crimping tool is awesome!
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Old 12-28-2013, 06:54 AM   #769
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How much rear toe should you run on low bite track and how much for high bite track and how does rear toe make the car handle when you have to much
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Old 12-28-2013, 08:29 AM   #770
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Maybe you can start with negative 1 toe in then if u want more steering,relieve the toe in and if u want less steering put more toe in.but start with running the car first then see how it feels to u and document your laptimes before and after the toe in change.im referring to the rear wheels only.
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Old 12-28-2013, 08:42 AM   #771
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How much rear toe should you run on low bite track and how much for high bite track and how does rear toe make the car handle when you have to much

More rear toe gives more rear traction to a point. Understand the more the rear of the car is planted the less overall steering the car will have. I usually start with 3.0-3.5 negative tow.


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Old 12-28-2013, 08:44 AM   #772
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Generally if u want more grip in the rear, put less camber and use a softer shore on the rear tire.and softer rear shocks and put the sliding weights to the front. If u want more steering, just do the opposite of what I just mentioned. But if u want more steering without the car getting too nervous and unstable, put the front upper arms towards the rear more which will make the car less nervous and in fact less steering but to compensate,put the sliding weights towards the rear and or use a harder shore of tire u are using.do one change at a time then run the car and see how it feels. It's easier if u base it on how much steering you want rather than using someone else's setup because it might make it harder for you considering your driving still compared to someone else's. Also best to start with 2 sliding weights to keep the car not nervous then keep adding more steering until you can't take any more steering nervousness. But u might wana consider that its easier to drive an understeered car for a main final compared to an oversteered car.but the good thing about an oversteered car is.that you can put less steering easily by putting less dual rate in the steering adjustments of the transmitter which is easy to do if you don't wana go down the drivers stand and just play.I learned it the hard way and I'm still learning after.a.year of hardcore racing.fyi I have to still experiment with different shock oils. A tighter centax clutch also increases steering as well as a leaner low speed needle.
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Old 12-28-2013, 09:02 AM   #773
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U will most likely win a dogfight if you have onpower steering compared to having offpower steering.because u have to weave though the inside or The outside of a corner to get past him.and u cannot control the pace of ur car if u keep having neutral moments in the corners
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Old 12-28-2013, 09:21 AM   #774
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One thing I noticed when I watched sahashi drive in the video of The worlds is this, he tends to chop chop his throttle.I'm SUSPECTING that he does this because he has a little understeered car which makes it easier to drive and in cases where he needs more steering, he will chop chop the throttle to push the rear for the car to turn. It's a controlled chop and looks like it worked for him. Maybe because if he just has enough steering,he might oversteer and spin out in the sweeper after the stretch. Just my opinion. This chopchop seems to me keeps the car in control so that if the car goes wild in the corner,he can automatically correct it by chopping again to correct the direction of the car. I may be wrong hehe but this is what I strongly believe
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Old 12-28-2013, 01:35 PM   #775
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Sedan driving style and his chop chop driving at the worlds for 1/8 are completely different styles of driving. A safe place to start with in the rear of the car is 2.5 degrees toe and 3.5 to 4 degrees camber
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Old 01-02-2014, 07:47 PM   #776
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Default Serpent 747

My newly painted body..
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Serpent 747 1/10 200mm touring @Nurnberg Toy Fair 2012-photo.jpg   Serpent 747 1/10 200mm touring @Nurnberg Toy Fair 2012-photo1.jpg  
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Old 01-02-2014, 11:02 PM   #777
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If your gonna race that body. First the wing is illegal it can't be higher than the roof. The next body you want to cut the fueling/air hole above the tank
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Old 01-02-2014, 11:39 PM   #778
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My newly painted body..
Body looks good man!
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Old 01-03-2014, 01:38 AM   #779
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It's been 13 years since i raced.I'm just getting back into it last week I took 2nd at nor cal hobbies and every body had some nice paint work so went to work on the paint . I keep get faster. my local track lap times was my frist time at the track 22.65 By the end of the day they where 14.84 yes I know the wing is not up to rules lol well I don't have to fill it lol but on the next one I will move it over like to send a special thanks to Pablo at serpent America
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Old 01-03-2014, 01:44 AM   #780
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Hello onRdPassion were do you guys race in LA? We used to race in crystal park back in the day. Do you race with greater la club or is there other tracks ?
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